This is from the NASA Spec SRT rules:
"The air-conditioning system, which is composed of the compressor, dryer, and lines may be removed. Modification or removal of the heater core and blower fan assembly is also permitted. Replacement pulley and belts are allowed, but only Mopar PVO part #’s #04668588AA and #04668444AA/AB/AC are allowed."
I think that SnyderMotorsports knows exactly how to do the set up. You do need to use the replacement pulley though.
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Blue 2004 #77 US Touring Car Championship--, Hotchkis Sway Bars, Mopar S2,Cat Back,and STS, TCE big brake kits, Raybestos ST43 front, Porterfield R-4 pads rear,Clutch Masters S4 Aluminum, Iceman intake, KW Var 3 coilovers, Boogers, GReddy CC,MSD wires,DC Sports F.& R. STB,17x7.5 SSR Comps w 225/45/17 Hoosier R3SO4's, Custom Cage, MP shift Ball, Ground Control camber plates, Cobra Imola II GT seat, Simpson 5 pts, Griffin Radiator
If you look close you can see the cage foot-plate template in the background of one of the picures. The main hoop and A pillars should be bent shortly!!
I just put on the TCE Front Brake Kit and saved at least another 7-8 pounds compared with the stock brakes, and have a much better set-up now. I found my old calipers/hardware/lines weighed 11 pounds each. The TCE caliper/bracket/hardware/braided steel lines weighed a tick over 7 pounds for each side. The TCE 13" (looks awesome btw) rotors/hats weigh 16 pounds. My stock rotors were worn down badly with a lot of missing material, and they weighed just under 16 pounds. If anyone has a new front rotor, can you please weigh it and post the result here? Thanks.
Greg
I understand that reducing the weight is good for handling and acceleration, but couldn't you just relocate some of the weight as a cheaper solution? It's not just the amount of weight that improves handling, it's also how high your center of gravity is, so if you didn't replace your side windows, and just rolled all of them down, would you be dropping your center of gravity more than simply replacing or removing them? It's not against the rules is it?
Relocating weight is fine, but there are only a few items that can be relocated to improve balance (like the battery, fuel cell/tank, fire system). Your idea to lower side windows to lower the center of gravity of the car wouldn't make any appreciable difference in the car's C.G. Also, most organizations require that the car have the front side windows down anyway. And, it helps to have the rear side windows up for the aerodynamic effects, which does make a noticable difference. So, the answer to your question is that replacing the windows with Lexan would be better. However, side window replacement wouldn't get you nearly as much weight reduction as front and rear window replacement.
If you put in Lexan windows for the track, is your car still street legal, or do you have to trailer it around? How much does Lexan cost? Who does it? Also, does Lexan break down in UV over time like plexiglass?
Are you allowed to modify the engine internals at all? Doesn't removing the BS assembly remove like 30 lbs? I thought I read that number around here somewhere ...
What about scraping all the undercoating off the underside of the car?
wires wires wires...... there are miles of wire in your car and they weigh quite a bit when you add them all together.... if you remove stuff like the ac, cabin light, rear brake lights, power windows, ect. ect. ect. make sure to remove wires... they are pointless anyways!
I switched out the Stage 4 Clutch Masters flywheel/clutch assembly for a Stage 4 Clutch Masters aluminum flywheel/clutch assembly and lost about 8 1/2 pounds off the drivetrain. I haven't had it out on the track yet. The pressure plate spring is noticably heavier than stock, but not as heavy as on other vehicles I've owned. (This is the older style version of the CM alumimum setup. The are testing a newer version that should be available in a week or two, and I think that the feel will be similar to stock than this version).
I installed the Stage 2 rotors from MoparSupercenter.com recently. 14.25 pounds each, and they worked well with the stock calipers and Brakeman pads.
Another local guy sprang for the lighter version (titanium hardware and less weight in the 'hat' portion) and ran them at the same track days I attended.
For those who don't want to go to the extra weight of a big brake kit, these are a good way to reduce weight off the stock system without hurting the braking performance.
Dale
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For those who don't want to go to the extra weight of a big brake kit, these are a good way to reduce weight off the stock system without hurting the braking performance.
Dale
Dale, the TCE/Wilwood big brake kits both provide weight savings over the stock system. The front by about 8 pounds total, and the rear by 18 pounds. There are savings in both the rotor weight (despite being larger), and the caliper weight. I'm not sure if the other brand BBKs save weight or cost weight, though.
Greg
Have to chime in here, our SRT-4 Bumper Brace for large FMICs weights in at only 6 lbs while the stock bumper beam is 19lbs, that is a savings of 13lbs with little sacrifice in structural rigidity.
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