What kind of sucks is the 710 seems like a great tire except at HPT where Nats is at. In just about every case there, where there's a optimally sized A6 for the top dogs, that tire dominates.
I'm not changing hardly anything this season and my plans for attending events looks bleak. About all I might experiment with is lower front pressures on my 710s since rallyfreak and his co-driver discovered the 38 psi or so we have been using was too high at a late event last season.
If I could take this season seriously, I need to send my shocks back in for freshening. This will be the third season for them since a rebuild and it would be great to get the increased compression Fastneons got, too.
Steve...I have been calling Dudley but he hasnt called back yet..Im trying to find out what brake fluid he used, I rmember him telling me Motul when we bought the car, but Im not sure which Motul fluid he used. I normally run DOT 4 Valvoline synth brake fluid in my other cars, but didnt want to mix them (or is that not harmful?). Do you remember talking to Dudley about what kind of brake fluid he might have used? (I know its a pretty minuscule thing to remember, just seeing if I can get lucky LoL) thanks.............
Thanks for bringing this back up with the link to last year's thread! My SRT4 (Non ACR) is still bone stock, but I'm finally at a point where I can do a couple things to it. Little things here and there...
I will be running in D Stock with a very small club here in Germany (1on1 motorsports).
I'm about to buy the Koni struts from Proparts. Should I contact them first and ask them to put "The SteveW Treatment" on them before they ship them out? What does the revalving cost (ball park)?
I haven't seen anyone mention the use of spacers to get some additional track width. Modern Performance is offering 5mm (.20") spacers with studs at what looks like a reasonable price. Rules allow +/- .25" Any thoughts?
Hopefully I will have a spare set of stock (17X6) wheels soon to put some real autocross rubber on. My original BFGs are very close to done.
Stock Tokrapo 5 way adjustable shocks (previously ran full stiff in back and 3 or 4 in front. I may try running full stiff in the fronts---thoughts? Or does it even matter with the Tokrapos?)
16 inch Voxx wheels (A little lighter than stock BBS) mounted with gently used 225/50/16 V710s aquired from bargain basement seller (they are almost gone, looking for more 225's)
16 inch PT cruiser wheels (mmmm ghetto bling) mounted with various used 215/45/16 V710 tires aquired from generous souls (thanx SteveW & Keith Brown!! )
Schroth drivers harness
ACR camber bolts and dogbones (hopefully being installed Friday if the dogbone washers get here in time) Going to run as much front camber as I can...
Also going to try slight toe-in on the front, Prolly will stay with 0 in the back, and not much if any camber in the back
Valvoline Synth DOT 4 brake fluid
Hawk HP brake pads all around
Switching to Redline MT90 tranny fluid
K & N drop in filter
...And bought the wife new Adidas/Goodyear driving shoes w/ Orange trim to match the car---hopefully enticing her to run a few more events this year---working the chicks/shoes angle with that one. Its actually her primary car she drives, thought she needs to get a little more used to driving it in anger.
Last edited by ByeByeTRDHelloSRT : 04-10-2008 at 10:38 AM.
I'm about to buy the Koni struts from Proparts. Should I contact them first and ask them to put "The SteveW Treatment" on them before they ship them out? What does the revalving cost (ball park)?
I haven't seen anyone mention the use of spacers to get some additional track width. Modern Performance is offering 5mm (.20") spacers with studs at what looks like a reasonable price. Rules allow +/- .25" Any thoughts?
Actually, I would get the "Nick Coate" treatment. He has followed our exploits with these revalved struts and our concerns with not enough compression. He had his done before Nats last year and had them bump up the compression valving. I don't think there's anything wrong on the rebound side, though. If you add more rebound then the whole adjustment range goes up and it might be too much if it's wet even at full soft.
I paid $1200 a few years ago for the shocks and valving job. WELL WORTH IT, IMHO! You won't believe how much control you get over what the car does and it becomes an extention of your hands and eyes.
Yeah, definitely go for the extra track by playing with offset. All us ACR drivers have 35mm offset wheels as opposed to the 40mm stock spec.
...And bought the wife new Adidas/Goodyear driving shoes w/ Orange trim to match the car---hopefully enticing her to run a few more events this year---working the chicks/shoes angle with that one. Its actually her primary car she drives, thought she needs to get a little more used to driving it in anger.
I don't know what Dudley used for fluid but I use ATE Super Blue mainly because it was the only racing quality fluid around here the day I looked. I used Valvoline Synthetic in my 1st gen Neons but I think you'll be happier with a true racing fluid in there, Dominic. Pedal feel will be better and firmer.
Just use Redline MTL. MT90 is some thick stuff and probably too much for our autocrossing needs. MTL works great for me during the summer and I switch to C+ATF over the winter.
Kate got us some Piloti driving shoes this spring. Her Spyder SVs in white and me Spyder SVs in Red...watch out boys and girls
Just got off the phone with Timberline Dodge..My dogbones are in!!! Car gets aligned tomorrow morning. w00T!
and bumping part of my last post, What settings on my stock Tokicos do people here think I should run? OR does it make much of a difference on the Tokicos? I just didnt have the scratch to upgrade the car much this year...
Just use Redline MTL. MT90 is some thick stuff and probably too much for our autocrossing needs. MTL works great for me during the summer and I switch to C+ATF over the winter.
Uh oh. I already bought the MT90. Is it gonna hurt anything? Or should I exchange it? I only bought that one because it was mentioned in the original "How to change transmission fluid" thread...
Uh oh. I already bought the MT90. Is it gonna hurt anything? Or should I exchange it? I only bought that one because it was mentioned in the original "How to change transmission fluid" thread...
I don't know, man. I'd exchange it. I know mother Mopar doesn't recommend anything but ATF in our transaxles but MTL is made specifically for that type of tranny and LSDs. I think even 3R Racing only used a mixture of MT90 and MTL in their full-on pro race SRT-4s. We certainly don't have a need for a thicker fluid, methinks.
Actually, I would get the "Nick Coate" treatment. He has followed our exploits with these revalved struts and our concerns with not enough compression. He had his done before Nats last year and had them bump up the compression valving. I don't think there's anything wrong on the rebound side, though. If you add more rebound then the whole adjustment range goes up and it might be too much if it's wet even at full soft.
I paid $1200 a few years ago for the shocks and valving job. WELL WORTH IT, IMHO! You won't believe how much control you get over what the car does and it becomes an extention of your hands and eyes.
Yeah, definitely go for the extra track by playing with offset. All us ACR drivers have 35mm offset wheels as opposed to the 40mm stock spec.
Ouch! Maybe I'll wait on the revalve until I get more serious with it. $630 now and then pay for a revalve upgrade in a couple years when I get back to the states. Thanks for the info.
Another question considering "crash bolts"... Modern Performance lists Eibach camber bolts for front and rear. GRM's write up mentions getting TWO sets of bolts for the front... Is that necessary for maximum camber adjustment? I've never swapped struts before. I'm an old musclecar drag race guy.
I don't know, man. I'd exchange it. I know mother Mopar doesn't recommend anything but ATF in our transaxles but MTL is made specifically for that type of tranny and LSDs. I think even 3R Racing only used a mixture of MT90 and MTL in their full-on pro race SRT-4s. We certainly don't have a need for a thicker fluid, methinks.
Do I need to add the friction modifier to the MTL?
Do I need to add the friction modifier to the MTL?
Nope. Neither the C+ATF or MTL require it.
05Blast,
"Another question considering "crash bolts"... Modern Performance lists Eibach camber bolts for front and rear. GRM's write up mentions getting TWO sets of bolts for the front... Is that necessary for maximum camber adjustment? I've never swapped struts before. I'm an old musclecar drag race guy.
I don't believe those Eibach cam bolts would technically be legal for SCCA stock on an ACR, definitely not with a standard SRT-4. Might be where you're at, though. "Crash bolts" are Mopar parts that are the same as standard knurled clevis bolts without the knurling. GRM used two sets to get the most adjustment they could on a non-ACR SRT-4. There's no way with the Mopar bolts to get -2.4 without grinding the brackets with either SRT-4.
The reason I question the legality of the part is Mopar bolts are readily available and the cam on the Eibach could be considered a higher performance part since it would not allow any possible slipping. However, it may slide so long as the camber wasn't set beyond -2.4, best get a clarification if you want to run them. The Mopar setup will not slip so long as they are installed and torqued correctly.
So, are you running your SRT-4 overseas? Europe? It must be fun blowing the doors off some of that machinery and letting the car stretch its legs. Driving Dr. Evil around here is an exercise in extreme restraint. Although, out in Eastern OR there are wide open spaces with next to no cars where I've opened her up a little...
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SRT-4 ACR 2008 autocross set-ups
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