i think you mean decrease. The last thing you want to do is increase an already large turning radius. I don't think it will have the desired effect anyway. I could be wrong of course.
You'll mostly benefit from weight reduction since 16" wheels and tires are lighter than 17's. But be careful because if your in stock class and aren't an ACR SRT-4, you will be moved to STU with the Evo's and STI's. If you're not in stock class, then I think you should go ahead and get them because the tires for it are less expensive and it will also make you faster.
i think you mean decrease. The last thing you want to do is increase an already large turning radius. I don't think it will have the desired effect anyway. I could be wrong of course.
Yeah I meant to say decrease turning radius.
Quote: Originally Posted by V-Kidd
You'll mostly benefit from weight reduction since 16" wheels and tires are lighter than 17's. But be careful because if your in stock class and aren't an ACR SRT-4, you will be moved to STU with the Evo's and STI's. If you're not in stock class, then I think you should go ahead and get them because the tires for it are less expensive and it will also make you faster.
I am already up with the big boys with all my suspension mods in STU. I am actually giving them a run for their money Now I wanna beat them. Anyone know of nice 16x8 lightweights.
Cool, how close are you usually away from the top drivers? A few tenths? The only 16" wheels that I know of that looks good and is light is the Enkei Racing RPF1 and the Konig Britelite; but they're both 7" wide. I've also heard that the Falken Hanabi is very light, but I'm not sure if they make them in 16's.
it's racing... Being fast comes before looking good.
I think this quote is going to make me cry of joy that someone understands this basic concept. ::
Quote: Originally Posted by V-Kidd
Cool, how close are you usually away from the top drivers? A few tenths? The only 16" wheels that I know of that looks good and is light is the Enkei Racing RPF1 and the Konig Britelite; but they're both 7" wide. I've also heard that the Falken Hanabi is very light, but I'm not sure if they make them in 16's.
I really never got to try out my new racing suspension setup. but, when I was with a completely stock suspenion with CAI and some ignitions, and depending on the track, I was able to hang within a second of STIs and an EVO, as well as top maybe two stock miatas and a elise (believe it or not). Only thing is I think the people I beat, no matter what car, where most likey noobs. I was about 5 seconds off a fully developed, highly tuned Evo 8 and miatas. Not to shabby for about 4 autocross events under my belt with a car that turns worse than a suburban.
Now I have BC coilovers, Hotchkis sway, P-werks STBs as far as suspenion goes.
One of the top guys who run STU in Az is fast (Evo driver). The guy down here running a STI in STU started racing about the same time I did. I beat him in Novice. But when we were both running STU he always had a couple seconds on me. Granted he has more to work with. The Evo guy beats him just about every time and always competes for for top PAX and FTD. Except when the shifter karts run. Then it's just for top PAX.
There's no way I'd trade 2lbs of weight in the wheels/tires for the gains you guys may be talking about. The SRT-4 has more than enough power, sometimes too much, so going to a shorter tire will not help there at all. Also, the turning radius will not change by going to a shorter tire. The tire and steering rack can only go to a certain angle and a shorter tire won't change any of that.
If you're sticking with street tires then a 245/40-17 will be the best option available. There aren't wide tires available in a 16" size.
agreed. Does the SRT4 have the fastest steering rack ratio of all the neons? I was thinking that a 245/40R17 on an 8 inch wide wheel will not be as beneficial as a 235/40R17 on an 8 inch wide wheel because of the difference in the size of tread compared to the wheel itself. I can have a wide 'foot print' with a 235/40 and not as much overhang outside of the wheel to cause quicker responsiveness and less PSI needed to achieve max performance on the AutoX course. please enlighten me if this doesn't make sense.
staggered what? I'm just copying the speed world challenge SRT4 suspension/wheel setup. Then, converting them to be proportional to a AutoX/daily driver.
You want a smaller tire in the back for auto-x. Helps the car rotate which it doesn't do well. Barring the added expense of having two different sizes of racing tires, you can run less camber in the back. Around 0deg. That will help the car rotate too.
Auto-x isn't like road racing. Speeds are slower, but way more fast transitions. Pivot cones are the anti-christ.
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