Just updated with a few tweaks here and there, including NeonDan's method for doing burnouts. Good luck finding all the changes, since I didn't mark them.
i think speed shifting is definitely the most beneficial way to drag a turbo car, even with my s0 ecu i dont lose anywhere near as much boost as i would by coming of the gas and letting it blowoff! keep that foot on the gas and shift right and you shouldnt have any trouble with hurting the clutch, especially if you slip the clutch a little on the launch and from 1-2!
i think speed shifting is definitely the most beneficial way to drag a turbo car, even with my s0 ecu i dont lose anywhere near as much boost as i would by coming of the gas and letting it blowoff! keep that foot on the gas and shift right and you shouldnt have any trouble with hurting the clutch, especially if you slip the clutch a little on the launch and from 1-2!
You will probably run a little faster WOT shifting, no doubt. Like you said, if you "shift right" should be no problem. Every once in a while, I miss a shift at the track. I figure it might be ugly if I WOT shift and miss it vs. shift quickly and miss it. It's my daily driver, and I'm a little conservative. It's a personal choice.
Thank You for very informative post! Unfortunately there is no drag strips in Ukraine, but I think that this information will help me in head-to-head racing.
Yeah this thread is great. I actually took my car to the track for the 1st time last week. My best run was a 14.7 @ 98mph., .097 R/T, 2.45 60ft .......I was running on "street recommended" tire pressure.....Next time, i will low to pressure to 26-28psi....I will also try to the "clutch almost engaged @ 1800-2200rpm launch method"....Thanx for the info!!!!!
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Mopar STS
Prothane Race Motor Mount Inserts
Needswings V5 DP w/ cutout The SRT-4: Secretly Admired.....Openly Hated
If you'd like a good laugh, go to Midatlantic srt' s website and check out the retard that says he beat a stage 2 srt4 with his cobalt!! He said all he did was a fresh air intake. The idiot couldn't even spell cobalt correctly.. Great for a laugh.
Also, first time at the strip with my srt4 I ran a 9.13 in the 8th mile at nearly 90mph. Bogged bad in first gear when the tires grabbed.
I've had my car for a while but still have a question about the shifting..
You said we should shift at about 5800, but don't we redline at 6250? Wouldn't we wanna shift then? Im still kinda young with the racing.. lol.
I've had my car for a while but still have a question about the shifting..
You said we should shift at about 5800, but don't we redline at 6250? Wouldn't we wanna shift then? Im still kinda young with the racing.. lol.
For a stock or lightly modded SRT-4, torque and hp tend to drop pretty quickly near redline. I think you're fine shifting anywhere between 5800-6000. Any higher and you're flirting with fuel cut if you shift too slowly. Of course, you can go a bit higher with S2 or S3 because of the higher redline and different torque/hp curve.
I'm not sure if anyone has already made this point. I didn't read every single post. One thing I've found is that loading my car helps tremedously with 60 ft times. It takes trial and error but well worth it. To do it simply do your burn out as usual. Roll to the lights. When your opponent is ready, light the first beam. Bring your rpm level to whatever you want to launch at and pull up your e brake slightly. Slowly let out your clutch till you feel the car start to inch forward. Once the second beam is lit, pull up your e-brake all the way to stop the car keeping the clutch position the same. Your car is now loaded. Once the lights come down simply side step the clutch and simultaneously drop the e-brake and get ready to shift to second. This will pull you through to your best 60 ft times once perfected. Not only does loading reduce wheel hop, but it also helps build boost, and is easier on drive line parts. e-brake excluded. But I'd rather replace my e-brake rather then a tranny or axles. My advice is to practice this tecnique on a side street rather than at the track. Like I said it takes trial and error, and you don't want to be like me and drive the whole 1320 with your e-brake up. LOL
i think speed shifting is definitely the most beneficial way to drag a turbo car, even with my s0 ecu i dont lose anywhere near as much boost as i would by coming of the gas and letting it blowoff! keep that foot on the gas and shift right and you shouldnt have any trouble with hurting the clutch, especially if you slip the clutch a little on the launch and from 1-2!
You will probably run a little faster WOT shifting, no doubt. Like you said, if you "shift right" should be no problem. Every once in a while, I miss a shift at the track. I figure it might be ugly if I WOT shift and miss it vs. shift quickly and miss it. It's my daily driver, and I'm a little conservative. It's a personal choice.
SRT4REAL is definitely right on this topic. Contrary to popular belief, rev limiters are not fool proof. Especially when the rpms are coming up really quickly under load. Power shifting is great for a few tenths, but is it worth the chance. One missed shift that gets past the rev limiter, and you could be buying a new motor. Dropped valves are no joke, they usually destroy both the head and the block. Its much easier to catch a missed shift when regular shifting and its more likely for the rev limiter to catch it also. And PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don't slip your clutches. This is the worst advice people give. It helps you at launch, and stock & slightly modified cars and clutches can recover from slippage by letting them cool down, but its the worst thing you can do to your clutch. Slipping causes heat, heat is the enemy of most everything but especially brakes and clutches. Once again the few tenths aren't worth the headache of buying clutches prematurely. And high hp cars will actually toast a clutch trying to slip it, take it from me I know. I'm breaking in another 2000 dollar clutch as we speak because of that bad advice. As a matter of fact I better get on the road, theres a race tomorrow and I only have 100 miles on this thing. Hope this was helpful.
SRT4REAL is definitely right on this topic. Contrary to popular belief, rev limiters are not fool proof. Especially when the rpms are coming up really quickly under load. Power shifting is great for a few tenths, but is it worth the chance. One missed shift that gets past the rev limiter, and you could be buying a new motor. Dropped valves are no joke, they usually destroy both the head and the block. Its much easier to catch a missed shift when regular shifting and its more likely for the rev limiter to catch it also. And PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don't slip your clutches. This is the worst advice people give. It helps you at launch, and stock & slightly modified cars and clutches can recover from slippage by letting them cool down, but its the worst thing you can do to your clutch. Slipping causes heat, heat is the enemy of most everything but especially brakes and clutches. Once again the few tenths aren't worth the headache of buying clutches prematurely. And high hp cars will actually toast a clutch trying to slip it, take it from me I know. I'm breaking in another 2000 dollar clutch as we speak because of that bad advice. As a matter of fact I better get on the road, theres a race tomorrow and I only have 100 miles on this thing. Hope this was helpful.
Understand your concern about slipping the clutch, but I'd caveat it a bit. If you're on slicks, there's absolutely no reason to slip it -- should be able to sidestep it and go. On street tires or drag radials, you have a much higher probability of severe wheel hop or just spinning at the line if you just drop the clutch. It's another tradeoff. I release the clutch quickly on DRs or street tires, but there is a little bit of slip. Agree that the slip gets worse/tougher on the clutch as hp goes up, but at some point, you should switch to slicks anyway.
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