I am interested in trying the 180 degree Thermostat. But I can't seem to find one locally. Where do I get one for an 03 SRT-4?
I.e. what brand/part#/model... do I need?
Thanks! The "air-box mod" really seems to make it spool up faster and hold the boost better.
Nate
go to discount auto parts i think its known as advanced auto parts in certain parts of the country...anyhow ive done a few so i memorized the part number...its a Stant (brand) 13788 (part number) 180 degree thermostat (product discription)
__________________
Imitated and hated on by the posers, im still here Built by experts. Tested in the real world. ~ Mopar PM me if you have SRT4 questions,Dont let the fact i drive Neons deter you, I have 8+yrs neon and 5yrs SRT4 experience.....god bless!
Both tracks I've been to, at the end of the race, inside lane has right of way; you must wait for the other car to pull off the track first if you are in the outside lane.
(Inside lane is the side that the exit is on.)
There have been a few times I've had to completely stop on the track and wait for some fart-can 17.5 sec Civic cross the finish line and pull off the track.
Thanks for the great info for novice drag racers...thats me. I have not driven at the tracks. I have a 03 SRT4, I feel that I should install a limited slip differential before hitting the tracks..I often get wheel hop just on street launches. Also you made a comment that Stage 1 turbo upgrades are "throw away", I plan to do an upgrade after the limited slip, so I should just go stage 2? Still under warranty...can I go stage 2 or should I just wait til warranty period is over. All opinions welcome. Thanks. Cynthia
Cynthia, the Viper mechanic at North Star dodge said that the stage kits are all warrenty based... no voids on staged kits... i just got my 03 srt-4 over the weekened and have just ordered stage 2 w/ toys for it...
also to any others out there... what else would be a good upgrade with stage 2.... ex. exaust,strut braces,etc etc
__________________
4/24/05 DYNO'D 313 and 334 NO HOM and NO SPRAYER mods are...S3R,60mmTB,CAI,msd coil and wires,open stock downpipe..)
Best Time in SRT-4 13.92@102}{Backed by 13.92@101}~{STOCK}~
Best Time in SRT-4 13.08@113{Backed by a 13.33@110}~{S3R}~
Best Time in SVT Lightning 13.68@106-{MODS unknown}-
Best Time in Viper RT/10 11.71@121.6}{Backed by 11.71@121.6}
first pass with a .501 light and second with a .500 light (1.80 60's on stock tires)
Thanks for the great info for novice drag racers...thats me. I have not driven at the tracks. I have a 03 SRT4, I feel that I should install a limited slip differential before hitting the tracks..I often get wheel hop just on street launches. Also you made a comment that Stage 1 turbo upgrades are "throw away", I plan to do an upgrade after the limited slip, so I should just go stage 2? Still under warranty...can I go stage 2 or should I just wait til warranty period is over. All opinions welcome. Thanks. Cynthia
You don't need LSD to cure wheel hop. LSD is most helpful in keeping traction when you go around curves. Get motor mount inserts or filled motor mounts to help with wheel hop.
Stage 1 is only "throwaway" if you decide later to go to Stage 2 or 3. You can do lots with just S1 and other aftermarket parts. Think about your long term goals before you buy anything, so you don't buy things twice.
If a dealer says Stage 1, 2, or 3 is warrantied, and can't affect your existing warranty... get it in writing. A few dealers will do this if they do the installation. Otherwise, S1, S2, S3 are not warrantied, and it's possible that part of your existing warranty can be voided if S1, S2, or S3 causes something to break. It's very unlikely that the Mopar stages will break anything unless you combine them with other aftermarket stuff that causes the "BOOM", but some dealers will blame anything rather than do the warranty work. Look up Slaytanic's thread.
motor mounts or motor mount inserts = cure/partial cure to wheel hop
i will warn all that by getting mounts/mount inserts it will require some re-learning to drive/launch the car....it will feel that different
on a side note...please guys/gals....if you dont wanna spend vast amounts of money in repairs or broken parts take in consideration what you are asking you 2950-3200lbs (unladden) high hp/tq FWD car to do. If you want to extract better times you have to invest in more than just go faster bits. For a car like the SRT4 to put its power down you need to address the motor mounts, suspension and the overall weight distribution. For mounts just consult a forum vendor or do a search, for suspension mods its best if you add polyurethane bushings along with springs/or Coil overs (...if you dont mind while you are at it buy Front and rear strut tower bars) not forgeting to get better sway bars and finally weight distribution on these cars is something like 63% front/37% rear so the untimate goal with what i just mentioned is to keep the rear from squatting while keeping the front end planted.
Wow, great thread, I'm hoping to take my new srt to the track in the next couple of weeks,this will help a lot. Still getting used to it after driving my 02R/T for 2yrs. With that I could hold a 4k rev and get limited wheel spin, not so true with the srt.
on a side note...please guys/gals....if you dont wanna spend vast amounts of money in repairs or broken parts take in consideration what you are asking you 2950-3200lbs (unladden) high hp/tq FWD car to do. If you want to extract better times you have to invest in more than just go faster bits. For a car like the SRT4 to put its power down you need to address the motor mounts, suspension and the overall weight distribution. For mounts just consult a forum vendor or do a search, for suspension mods its best if you add polyurethane bushings along with springs/or Coil overs (...if you dont mind while you are at it buy Front and rear strut tower bars) not forgeting to get better sway bars and finally weight distribution on these cars is something like 63% front/37% rear so the untimate goal with what i just mentioned is to keep the rear from squatting while keeping the front end planted.
Dan, if you're talking about roadracing or Auto-x, I agree 100%, but drag racing? Certainly, suspension can help with drag racing times, but I think you can do a whole lot of power mods on the stock turbo, run 12's with just motor mounts or inserts, and not break anything. It gets dicier when you upgrade the turbo, move to slicks and/or try to run 11's or better.
I would never upgrade just the springs, 'cause you'll blow the struts and the ride will suck. Coilovers cost $1200-$1300+ and they will certainly help on the launch for weight transfer, but the difference in 60' times will be marginal unless you have a turbo upgrade. Strut tower bars and sway bars do nothing or near nothing for straight line acceleration, but are very useful for the twisties.
Cliff's Notes: You've been driving riven's car too much!
I'll have to try my luck sometime soon see how i do. Im not much of a drag racer though
__________________
How can we sing King Alpha's song in a strange land?
2003 Nighthawk Black Pearl Acura RSX Type-S Lemon
2004 Bright Silver Metallic Dodge Neon SRT-4 Sold
2006 Silver Alloy Nissan 350z 6 Speed Enthusiast Coupe
Hey guys, I appreciate the info. Im coming off a 99 Procharged Cobra. Bought my SRT-4 a few weeks ago off a friend. Took it to the track and made us look bad running low 14's. Had a big problem with wheel hop, and getting off the line smooth. I didnt let any air out of the tires, but I will next week. Looking for some tires for the track. Will talk to you all soon.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
