Dodge SRT Forum banner

Brand-Spanking-Old

7K views 52 replies 9 participants last post by  IceTheRice 
#1 ·
First post! Brand new to the Neon SRT4 world, I've been reading posts every day since I bought the car.

I just recently purchased an '04 with 134k miles on her as my first car.

Needs body work.
Needs new oil pressure sensor.
Stock coilpack, 8.5mm MSD wires, plugs have over 15k on them.
Backfires around 5200rpm at 15psi stock turbo.
Has the MP Torque Solution strut kit, upper strut bolt was snapped when I got her, but I replaced it. Previous owner had the strengthened bolt set on-hand.
Stock besides a 3" cold-air intake and 3" straight pipe exhaust.
Sitting on Raceland coilovers and rubbing sometimes, plan to raise them a bit.

The wiring job on the Halo Projectors she came with was done poorly and they didn't work. I cut the standby wire from the turn signal plug and used disconnects to power the LEDs from it. The 11.2v (measured) coming from the standby has enough power to handle the LEDs on their own.

I tested the lights with a supply before reinstalling. Then I just tapped back into the ground on the turn signal plug. Turn signals in the projectors still work, but now the rings and side markers come on for park lights instead of the turn signals.

Planning on freshening things up before I get into power mods, any suggestions?
 
See less See more
5
  • Like
Reactions: DarKKnight54
#3 ·
I'll probably get those plugs today. How do I turn the boost down? The car came with a DSI so do I use that? There's a creaking noise from the front-right when going over small bumps, hitting large bumps sounds more like rubbing. I've seen a lot of people dislike Raceland on this site.
 
#4 ·
Didn't say you had a DSP, are there any more mods you may have forgotten or not told about? You need to know if the PCM was tuned with the DSP and if the boost is controlled by the PCM. Also need to get a AFR gauge at the very least going forward.
Yes, if the boost was programmed into the PCM by the DSP and assuming that the PCM is using the stock solenoid to control the wastegate, you would make the changes in there. I don't use the Diablo so I do not know how or where to adjust the boost. But if you go to the Performance section you should be able to get the info there.
Just DO NOT do what most newbies do and try tuning and cranking up the boost if you want to keep the car running.
 
#5 ·
If you have HIDS Do not run them without a relay and Zip Tie your Vac lines.
 
#6 ·
Only the LEDs are tapped into the standby circuit, the lows/highs still run from the stock connectors. The original installer had the LEDs on the harness side lows power wire.. They're only H1 bulbs.

There is an AFR guage, as well as water temp and oil pressure. I did forget to mention that, I'm still learning exactly what's in the car. She's currently running the 93 tune. There is no apparent modification to the solenoids.

Absolutely not going to increase the boost right now, last thing I want to do is blow something up. I haven't even checked the turbo for shaft play yet.

Also has S3 clutch with only 2-3k miles on it.

Will get on the zip-ties.
 
  • Like
Reactions: HybridKid
#7 ·
So I found out one of my friends who's got two SRTs is sending one to her death at the scrapyard. Poor car hasn't moved since he threw a rod and parked her two years ago. I'm buying the engine and transmission and also can take whatever else I want (axles might be handy?). Got the intake manifold and the wire harness off yesterday. I plan to use the block to rebuild and eventually drop it and the trans (which is practically new) into my own SRT. My engine probably has some problems..it's only been 1700 miles since last oil change and it's missing around 2qts.

On the interior side of the car, the sound system doesn't work at all. I'm ripping out the currently installed Kenwood 521 and reinstalling an xdm260.

Only problem with this is that NOBODY sells this connector. Went to radio snack, they sent me to an aftermarket sound shop (who was nice enough to give me a free fuse but didn't have my harness) who sent me to ebay. The harness costs 17 bucks and an 8 day wait cuz shipping. So I call a local computer store and pick up a 24 pin motherboard cable for 8, cut it in half, perfect fit for the 12 pin xdm connector. Did some research and figured out the pinouts, all that's left is to crimp to the harness.

Also putting in new speakers that the PO gave me with the purchase of the car.
 
#9 ·
I think I'm just going to use this thread to keep track of everything I'm doing related to this car.


Got the speakers in. I also have an engine and transmission from an '05 SRT4.

Took the head off and found one of the connecting rods gone. The piston's look pretty nasty.

Cyl 3 has the broken rod.

Rusty valves.

I think I'm going to get the block bored and decked. Not sure where to go with a rebuild since this is my first.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DarKKnight54
#10 ·
Your budget usually dictates the rebuild route in any vehicle. But new things you might need, keeping in mind your long term goals and if it is going to be a daily.
  1. Crank
  2. Rods and Pistons
  3. Main and Rod Bearings
  4. Pistons
  5. Check the valves to make sure not bent if going to reuse
  6. Check the deck plate for cracks in the main areas just in case
  7. The Head will have to be cleaned up and checked for damage
  8. Check the lifters
 
#11 ·
So everything I can take out of the block without a lift is removed. Engine is on hold until I can borrow a lift to separate the transmission from the block and take out the bottom end. Also am honestly not sure if I want to rebuild to stock or shoot for a higher hp s2 or s3 build so I've gotta figure that out... I did get a package in from modern performance with BC coilovers to replace the Racelands, got the full Prothane bushing kit, and a set of Booger bushings. The only thing I've had time to do is put the Boogers in and grease the shifter with white lithium grease. Shifts like a dream now, used to squeak a lot and have problems getting into 1st and R. Hoping to get the bushings and coils done at the same time then take her for an alignment. Going to need rear tires at some point soon since they're at the bars. Here's some pictures, next update will be when I pull the coils.







All comments/ideas/general help are appreciated greatly! I'm still doing my best to muddle through this using how-tos and a bit of just figuring it out since this is the deepest I've ever been into a car.



Rest in peace donor NSRT4
 
  • Like
Reactions: DarKKnight54
#12 ·
Quick update. Got the front coils in and took her for a drive, rides already better! Got the rear in the air and the rear coils in, and then the swaybar became a problem. The linkages were too long, the bushings were cracked in the sway mount brackets. One of the sway mount brackets was WELDED to the frame, so I ground it off. All four sway mount bolts sheared off. Last few weeks have been very busy. Just got the first hole completely drilled and tapped. Have the Hotchkis kit waiting to go in, but the going is very very slow. Hoping to be back on the ground before summer ends at this rate..
 
#15 ·
CATGUY, I'm honestly not sure about the engine's history other than that it was probably beat on and eventually threw a rod. It really bothered me how much deposit was on the pistons..not sure if that's slightly normal for these cars or not though.

Around every corner it seems like there is more to do, I have the driver's side of the subframe tapped for the new bolts, going to get the other side done today, hell or high water, it's my first day off in three weeks x_x I noticed that the rear LCA bushings are completely shot while I was crawling around under there..so now that's going to have to get done today too. Waiting on Advance Auto to open so I can grab stuff to mix penetrating fluid, grab stuff to fix the windshield on my corolla, grab some other stuff too probably. If I fuck up the bolts on the rear LCA I'm going to cry so I'm gonna soak them really well before I try.

Hybrid, I still haven't done all of the fluids, but she hasn't really been driving either.. I've heard from the P.O. that he used Mobile 1 0w-10 as trans fluid..that just sounds like a bad idea to me..but is it? Been thinking about switching over to RP.
 
#17 ·
So, I snapped off an easy-out inside the bolt I was drilling out for the trailing arm mount. Suggestions? I was thinking about just cutting the frame and welding a new nut and piece of steel back in...what would the repercussions be?

Also what grade of mounting hardware do you guys/gals suggest for things like trailing arms/swaybars? 6+? Or would standard galv hardware hold up..?

I ended up oversizing my swaybar mount bolts because the threads were destroyed when I went to drill the bolts out..
 
#20 ·
At long last my Dremel prevailed. Took me 5 aluminum oxide tips but I reduced most of the bolt extractor to dust.

The offending bolt soon followed with a little persuasion.

The tension strut re-mounted with one of the transmission bell housing bolts (same size/thread/grade).

Hoping that tomorrow I will have the rear sway mounted and will be able to put her back on the ground. This is my first weekend off all month and I decided to *literally* grind through.
 
#21 ·
I picked up my Black 05 about a month ago and we have almost the exact same front bumper damage lol. Mine has 92k miles now. Runs strong though. Thankfully this car has been trouble free so far. I changed all my fluids except the trans so far. I'm trying to decide whether to run 0w-40 mobil1 or RP Synchromax.
 
#23 ·
we have almost the exact same front bumper damage lol. Mine has 92k miles now. Runs strong though.
I guess that's what comes with lowering the car haha. I live in New England so a lot of the roads/driveways have weird angles.

10w-40 or 5w-30HM
I still have to change mine out from the PO's 0w-10 preferance. Anyone tried RP?

I've got the subframe drilled and tapped, about to install the rear hotchkis sway and hopefully put her all back together. I know enlarging holes and using bolts from other things for repair isn't really kosher.. But if I know anything about the owner before me..she's been thrashed on and the engine/trans might not be long for this world without serious time, money, and tools. I kinda want to fix her up, make her pretty again then flip into an SRT with a cleaner history..and with less than 134k miles.. The underbody is already showing substantial rust from being driven in the salt and snow up here as well.. But we'll see
 
#25 ·
Back on the road as of today. Found a place with a Hunter Hawkeye to do the alignment.




Alignment specs:
(BEFORE)
LF Camber -.2 Toe -.4
RF C -.5 T -.36
Total Front Toe -.76
LR C -2 T .35
RR C .4 T -.34
Total Rear Toe .02
Thrust Angle .34

(AFTER)
LF Camber -.2 Toe .1
RF C -.5 T .05
Total Front Toe .14
LR C -2 T .22
RR C .3 T .22
Total Rear Toe .44
Thrust Angle 0 (It's toed in but at least it goes straight!)

I think I'm going to need camber plates to get better control of this..

There's a slight gear whine which has me worried..I think it's about time to change that 0w-10 to a heavier oil..and 2nd gear isn't easy to get into. Also oil change, and power steering flush or top off, the pump was complaining when I turned the wheel lock to lock earlier. Hell I might do engine coolant too. I do remember Hybrid telling me to change all the fluids, maybe it's time. I've really only driven the car a handful of times since I bought it.

Here's the Suspension TO DO list:
2 new tires (at least)
Realign shifter (see if it helps 2nd gear)
Get rear camber plates
Measure both rear coil heights (I totally forgot to..and it might explain the difference in rear camber measurements)
Rebuild front suspension with the rest of the prothane master bushing kit (without breaking stuff this time)
Mount front hotchkis swaybar (hopefully without breaking stuff this time)
4 wheel balance (might as well get 4 new tires at that point)
Another 4 wheel alignment

Not suspension related but important:
Fluids
Grease the front caliper slide pins
New e-brake cables/shoes?
New rotors/pads?

There's so much more to do that's engine, body, and interior related too
 
  • Like
Reactions: HybridKid
#26 ·
Get rid of that 0w. Whatever fluid is there is supposed to be changed 6-8 months.

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk
 
#27 ·
I haven't done my trans fluid since picking up the car yet. Previous owner told me it was done "recently" Im assuming it has Mopar crap in it. I do t have any real shifting issues except sometimes needing a rev match for an aggressive downshift into 2nd from like 40mph. I'm thinking about getting RP Synchromax....or should I try 5w-30 HM? I'll moslt likely do a clutch in the spring with the reinforced pivot arm and ball. I'm most likely going to stick with an OEM clutch for cost effectiveness, I only plan on running bolt ons and DS tune. I don't want to rush my trans on big turbo, I'm fine with 290's HP to the wheels.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top