alright i have a 12" kicker 4 ohm L7...08 model not sure if yall need the model year. but my question or situation. i just ordered a agp 4" intake and i know i need a small battery kit or relocation. now if i go wit DCR's small battery kit, will the batter have enough juice to power the system, or would it just be better to relocate my battery?
i didnt list an amp because im borrowin my friends for the next couple of days, but im either going with the kicker zx750.1 or the 1000.1, i dunno wat would you audio guys recommend?
Any small battery will work just fine. Personally I recommend the JMB Kit. Once the car is on, all the strain is put to the alternator. Just make sure to do the Big 3 and have clean grounds.
I Have The Dcr Battery And I Am Running 2 L7, 12 Inch And A Kicker 1200.1 Amp. I Don't Have Any Problems, But I Also Have A 1 Farad Cap.
Just Get A Cap. And You Will Be Ok
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I Have The Dcr Battery And I Am Running 2 L7, 12 Inch And A Kicker 1200.1 Amp. I Don't Have Any Problems, But I Also Have A 1 Farad Cap.
Just Get A Cap. And You Will Be Ok
Do the complete opposite of this uneducated man, and DO NOT get a cap unless you want to cause more strain on your alternator which may cause problems.
The problem with assuming that the alt takes all the strain once the car is started is that it is a false assumption. Especially in the SRT-4. The ECU controls alt output and is VERY slow to respond to a change in current demand and the resultant voltage drop inour cars. When the alt is slow to react, all the excess current has to come from somewhere and that somewhere is the battery. If you must go with a small battery kit under the hood, I would add another small battery (such as a Kinetic HC800 or BatCap800) in the trunk.
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Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity.
The problem with assuming that the alt takes all the strain once the car is started is that it is a false assumption. Especially in the SRT-4. The ECU controls alt output and is VERY slow to respond to a change in current demand and the resultant voltage drop inour cars. When the alt is slow to react, all the excess current has to come from somewhere and that somewhere is the battery. If you must go with a small battery kit under the hood, I would add another small battery (such as a Kinetic HC800 or BatCap800) in the trunk.
Adding a second battery is still causing more strain. The common thought of having 2 batteries to help out is actually false and doing similar things to the electrical system as having a cap and therefore just ends up causing more strain. Very very rarely should you ever need a second battery.
Adding a second battery is still causing more strain. The common thought of having 2 batteries to help out is actually false and doing similar things to the electrical system as having a cap and therefore just ends up causing more strain. Very very rarely should you ever need a second battery.
Want to explain that statement? A battery is nothing like a cap. Nothing. A second battery does not cause an appreciable strain unless the alt simply isn't up to the task of supporting the average current draw of the system. What a second battery can do is allow a much larger peak draw before there is a significant voltage drop. A cap does not have the storage capacity to do that. Think of a battery bank as the tank on an air compressor. Sure you could get by with a big compressor and little tank and for a continuous draw (like a spray gun on a compressor or headlights on your car), that might be the best solution, but a stereo is not a continuous draw by any means. A stereo playing music is going to be more like an impact wrench where there is a big spike in draw that the compressor itself could never support and then when there is a lull in the demand, the tank is refilled by the pump. Just like the air compressor and it's tanks, once the tank is full it is not a load on the pump regardless of how big it is. Whether you pull 1A*hr from a single battery or from a bank of 10, the alt only has to replace 1 A*hr of charge.
He's right. I did some more research and proved myself wrong. Actually found that same analogy on the website I use. Shows sometimes you can't always use forums to learn everything, because the smart guys sometimes don't post. Self taught FTL.
OH THANK GOD, somebody finally SUPPORTS my second battery theory! Iv'e been running dual batteries for over 2 years now with NO ILL EFFECTS. The rear battery was recently upgraded to a HC 2400 KINETIK, and the system playtime with the key OFF has increased 3 fold! Upgrading from PS2 to X BOX 360 made my rear 800 amp battery go DEAD in about 1 1/2 hours. The new replacement hasn't crapped so far after 5 hours of play. This also powers my three amps and 20'' flat tv, plus an additional amp and speakers for the tv. TWO is the WAY TO GO! BSBOB
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Question about battery and sound system
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