*OFFICIAL* Big 3 Wiring Mod Thread

[04electricblue]

Quote: Originally Posted by CrEaTrE

I don't know about that, but it would make sense I suppose. The Big 3 should stop most light dimming. It's a really powerful cheapo mod for car electronics.

no its a factor of the alternator output not being able to keep up with the demand for that split second, out put is determined by the ecm and it is slow to compensate. please correct me if i'm wrong.

[CrEaTrE]

Quote: Originally Posted by 04electricblue

no its a factor of the alternator output not being able to keep up with the demand for that split second, out put is determined by the ecm and it is slow to compensate. please correct me if i'm wrong.

I'm not denying it. I haven't had this specific car long enough to know that for sure. The alternator is controlled by the ecu therefore it makes sense for it to not keep up with the demand, especially at idle. Still, the Big 3 is a huge performance addition in terms of the electrical system on any car. We already have a decent sized alternator, and these 3 wires just help it run a little easier and more efficiently.

[nineball]

i mostly use this board for parts hunting as i have an 05 sxt, but i just completed this last week. i did mine a bit differently based on another how-to guide. the points used may be different as well as i have the 2.0, but i will take pics of it tomorrow and post them.

on the passenger side there were 2 gounding points on the fender, one from the back of the engine and one on the front motor mount. i think it had 8 or 10 gauge, maybe even 12. i do have a pic of that i can post as well showing it next to the 4 gauge i used.

there were 2 direct connections for grounding the battery. one was routed behind the fuse box to a small screw on the fender (replaced this with a new screw) and another to the stock location on the block.

for the positive side, i ran a piece of 4 gauge directly to the alternator. i re-used the stock t connection by removing the post mount and replacing it with a section of 8 gauge, and left the stock wire running down to the starter.

to make it a little cleaner i bought a set of these.



for the positive side, i had a 4g going to the alt, and a 4g fused running to the trunk for the system that i am about to begin. one 8g fed the line to the T connection (starter and fuse box), the other 8g ran to the front seat via the hole/grommet (drilled through passenger side of firewall - so much room to work with compared to the driver's) with the 4g. it will feed a small amp under the passenger seat to power the new dash speakers (which will be used by the bt gps).

negative just used the 2 new 4g connections mentioned earlier.

topped it all off with a stinger spv44 battery since i was there. this was a perfect excuse to buy another tool. i call it the crimpler. just load it up and get a quality crimp everytime, just by beating the hell out of it with a hammer! it will work up to 0g.

[nineball]

forgot to mention... with nothing else installed i have noticed some subtle differences. no real power gains, but i never had a dimming issue before either. the one very noticable difference happens when using the rear defrost. before that would cause the car to shudder pretty good and rpms to drop. now there is barely any change when i use it. the windows seem to move faster as well, but that could be in my mind.

i have a 120a alt as well.

also have a ground going from the front of the block to the batter tray bolt. that flat piee of wire just wasn't enough to make me smile