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Old 04-14-2008, 10:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Mini Battery + BattCap + 2 Amps = ??

I was looking to relocate my battery to the trunk so that I can free up some room under the hood. However, with the NHRA rules saying you have to have an external kill switch and all the decent track events at my local track (Las Vegas Motor Speedway) requiring NHRA tech inspection. I didn't want to have a kill switch on the outside of my daily driver.

A friend of mine mentioned a BattCap, and caught my interest.

Could I run an Odyssey PC680 (which seems to be the mini battery of choice) and a BattCap of some size in the trunk to supplement it?
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:27 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I always wondered, why do they make you have a killswitch if the battery is in the trunk but not when its under the hood?
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by killerSRT View Post
I always wondered, why do they make you have a killswitch if the battery is in the trunk but not when its under the hood?

no idea.
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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i believe you only need that if you plan on actually racing in an nhra series. if you just go the track every now and then i don't think you need it. I know technically you need a 6 point cage if you go faster than 11.99 but there's plenty of tracks that don't really care unless you're in a series.
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Im in the same boat as you. Need my battery to move, and i always have two amps and a power cap. Bump for some answers
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:40 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by roadflare16 View Post
i believe you only need that if you plan on actually racing in an nhra series. if you just go the track every now and then i don't think you need it. I know technically you need a 6 point cage if you go faster than 11.99 but there's plenty of tracks that don't really care unless you're in a series.

Not true at LVMS. We had to go through tech inspection to run at Mopar's At The Strip.

The cars that had batterys out back had to demonstrate that their kill switch worked.
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:40 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by roadflare16 View Post
i believe you only need that if you plan on actually racing in an nhra series. if you just go the track every now and then i don't think you need it. I know technically you need a 6 point cage if you go faster than 11.99 but there's plenty of tracks that don't really care unless you're in a series.

This is true also. Anything under 13.99 requires a helmet, anything faster than a 12.99 requires a roll bar, 5 point harness, and helmet. Cage is after that
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:41 AM   #8 (permalink)
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ouch, that kinda sucks. well, better safe than sorry I guess. I bring nothing to the table then lol
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:44 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by killerSRT View Post
Im in the same boat as you. Need my battery to move, and i always have two amps and a power cap. Bump for some answers

I sent them an email. they say that some of their battcaps can crank a 4 cylinder engine. hmmm...
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:50 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Towards your original question - Wire up the Big 3 mod, and use the mini battery and you should be fine running 2 amps. After the car starts the power is taken from the alternator anyways, and unless the amps run while the car is off you shouldn't have any problem.
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:52 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by CrEaTrE View Post
Towards your original question - Wire up the Big 3 mod, and use the mini battery and you should be fine running 2 amps. After the car starts the power is taken from the alternator anyways, and unless the amps run while the car is off you shouldn't have any problem.

what gauge wire do you recommend? i have some extra 4 gauge laying around.
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:57 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by NoisufnoC View Post
what gauge wire do you recommend? i have some extra 4 gauge laying around.

Should work just fine. To be quite honest I used 8 gauge in my last car and it worked just fine. Anything is better than nothing.
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Old 04-15-2008, 04:37 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by CrEaTrE View Post
Towards your original question - Wire up the Big 3 mod, and use the mini battery and you should be fine running 2 amps. After the car starts the power is taken from the alternator anyways, and unless the amps run while the car is off you shouldn't have any problem.

you think i could run a Kinetik HC600 up front as a mini battery and thats it?

Kinetik - High Current Car Audio Power Cells

i suppose if it didn't work i could add another in the rear.
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Old 04-15-2008, 04:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm thinking of going back to a small battery. I had the JMB Ultimate intake, with the small Odyssey, but it would die really fast here. Part of it was I had a good bit of power draw, I think, but I'm hoping to figure out what's doing it, rectify that, and go back to a small battery.
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Old 04-15-2008, 04:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Pit Viper View Post
I'm thinking of going back to a small battery. I had the JMB Ultimate intake, with the small Odyssey, but it would die really fast here. Part of it was I had a good bit of power draw, I think, but I'm hoping to figure out what's doing it, rectify that, and go back to a small battery.

i want to go to one to free up some room under the hood. for the time being i have a pretty decent sized stereo in the car. maybe i'll go with two of these kinetiks, one in front and one in back, to power the stereo
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