2. using a phillips screw driver, remove the 3 screws in the door panel. one below the sail panel, one in the handle, and one in the cup.
3. gently, but firmly wedge up and pull out the switch panel. there are 3 tabs.
4. on the electrical connector for the mirror, slide the red tab out. disconnect connector. pull straight out hard, but don't break it. they are in there really tight. disconnect the other two connectors also [window switches]. they have the tab you have you push in while pulling. you have to remove the black connector first.
5. to remove the rods that connect to the handle, you need to rotate them. it's difficult to explain. they will pop off, then pull the rod out. be very carefull not to break them. but like before, they take some effort to remove.
6. once those are disconnected, disconnect the electrical plug for the door locks.
7. using a wide flathead screw driver [or your fingers] very carfully pull straight out on the door panels sail panel. there is one tab holding it in place.
8. starting at the above sail panel, work your way clockwise, pulling the panel apart. there are 8 pop tab things. pull firmly. remove door panel by pulling up and out. set aside face up so you don't scratch it.
9. unscrew the 3 screws holding the stock speaker in place.
10. use a flathead screwdriver to wedge the speaker out. it is held in my some stick tape stuff. just get a finger in there and pull. be carefull not to pull too hard and break anything.
11. disconnect the speakers electrical connection. push in the tab, pull out.
12. my speakers came with adapter rings. i simply lined them up, drilled small holes in the stock rubber, and screwed the adapter ring in place. if you don't have these, you will probably have to take the stock speaker apart to retrieve the gold colored ring with 3 tabs and screw holes, and drill 4 holes in that and mount you speakers to that. [i believe petar did that. maybe he's got a pic??]
13. if you got adapter harnesses, like from crutchfield, then skip this step. cut the connector off the harness. leave about an inch of wire on the connector just in case you ever need it. toss the connector away. unwrap the tape. pull apart the wires. you should have one green wire, and one red [or brown.. can't remember]
it is possible the wires are different colors for each year. so far we have:
2003: speakers only [not tweeters]: GREEN is + [positive]
RED [or brown] is - [negative]
2004:
purple/blue on drivers side speakers and tweeters.
green/brown on passenger side speakers and tweeters.
14. connect some uh.. whatever these things are called. [molex connectors??] wrap with electrical tape.
15. connect to speaker. on my infinities, the bigg one is +, small is -.
16. screw speaker to adapter ring with 4 screws.
17. attach handle rods, window switches, mirror controller, and lock switch. put door panel back on, push in 8 connection things. the top is a pain, refer to the other door to see how it hangs over the top of the door and the rubber piece. pic shows what rubber piece i am talking about.
18. screw back in the 3 screws into the door panel.
19. do the other door then you can connect the battery and make sure they work. then disconnect the battery again, and move on to the tweeters.
Last edited by dj-anakin : 03-21-2005 at 11:46 PM.
1. unscrew the 2 screws on either side of the top of the dash. you have to open the doors to get them.
2. unscrew the two screws on top of the dash. one on either side of that grate/hole.
3. pull weatherstripping away from a-pillar. remove a-pillar by pulling straight out. start at the top. be firm, but gentle. you don't want to break the tabs. if you do, you can get them from your dealer. they are fairly cheap. get extras.
4. lift up dash. there are tabs holding it down. get something to prop it up. if you want, but you should be able to pull out far enough to work.
5. unscrew 2 screws in the tweeter.
6. remove the connector from the speaker.
7. i used one of the adapters that came with my tweeter to attach it to some plumbers tape. there are several ways to do this. post your pics of how you did it, if differently than this. thanks.
8. using the stock screws, attach the plumbers tape witht he tweeter on it to the car using the stock screws. not too tight, but snug.
9. if you have wire harness adapters, skip this step. using the wire connectors like above, attach the tweeter wires to the stock wires [after you cut off the connector]. [i forgot to take a pic of this].
TWEETERS only [not not speakers/mids]:
2003: PURPLE is + [positive] BLUE is - [negative]
2004:
purple/blue on drivers side speakers and tweeters.
green/brown on passenger side speakers and tweeters.
10. make sure the tweeter sits low enough it isn't gonna rub the dashboard top.
11. do the other side. make sure the work. i angled mine a little bit towards the drivers seat.
12. put the dash back on top. attach 4 screws [two on top, two on the sides].
13. done.
Last edited by dj-anakin : 03-21-2005 at 11:47 PM.
6x9 how-to was already done by someone else. it's stickied..
i did mine a few weeks ago.
Nice job, dj-anakin.
The install let me know that I don't want to change the door speakers, but I want to replace those junk tweeters. I am putting in Atlantic Technology 1 inch silk-dome tweeters (closeout from Parts Express) and I turned the bass way down and tested them and they are smooth and clean. I prefer a smooth, detailed high end, versus etched, and these look like they will fill the bill. Thanks for the detailed info.
Nice job, dj-anakin.
The install let me know that I don't want to change the door speakers, but I want to replace those junk tweeters. I am putting in Atlantic Technology 1 inch silk-dome tweeters (closeout from Parts Express) and I turned the bass way down and tested them and they are smooth and clean. I prefer a smooth, detailed high end, versus etched, and these look like they will fill the bill. Thanks for the detailed info.
ya.. one thing i've noticed is that the tweeters made the big difference. changing the tweeters made the most difference out of all the speakers.
Oh one thing is though you din't need to pull the window control thing off to unplug it, once you get the door off it's simple to unplug it then. And I wouldn't recomend cutting off the factory plug. Incase you wanna to back stock one day (for selling it or something)
__________________
2004 E.Blue Srt-4*SOLD*
2002 Acura Rsx Type-S *SOLD*
2003 Mini Cooper S *Current*
Thanks man!!!! I still need to pick up my fronts, and i'll be using this for that install....
__________________
Disclaimer: All DaimlerChrysler employees: This Post or any other post by the screen name SphinX no way constitutes an admission of tampering, modification, usage, or alteration of my SRT-4 in such a fashion as to void, deny or otherwise refuse service on any service contracts or warrantees. Any posts made by SphinX are merely fictional. SRToc #624 Member of the .2 Mach Club
I didn't remove the speakers that are located on the dash, where you mounted your tweeters, but instead I cut holes in the doors and mounted the tweeters there as they sound better when they are closer to the mid range speakers.
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Front Speaker Install How-To
do one door at a time in case you need a reference.
Linear Mode
