Crutchfield claims the dash speaker is a 3 1/2 inch speaker. Has anyone replaced it yet? I getting ready to replace all my factory spearkers but haven't verified the speaker size in the dash. Thanks.
It's a very tight fitting 3.5" but yes that is the correct size. The roundness isn't the problem, its clearance for the magnet. I have 3.5" Audiobahns in there and the drivers side would not line up both screws. But there in.
NOOOOO!!!! get some component speakers. then you have a tweeter up there, rather than some goofy ass 3.5. you can get component 6.5's at best buy for less than 220
That's far from the best location for a tweeter, either. Disconnect the factory tweeters that are there (1" tweeter on a bracket to fit the 3.5" screw pattern) and put the tweet elsewhere.
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no, for the best sound quality, delete the 3 1/2's all together, get a 6.5" component set, properly amped, mount the tweets not on the dash to prevent the windshield from reflecting noise. Delete the rear speakers completely too. AND FOR GODS SAKE don't best buy or circuit city it, so over priced.
no, for the best sound quality, delete the 3 1/2's all together, get a 6.5" component set, properly amped, mount the tweets not on the dash to prevent the windshield from reflecting noise. Delete the rear speakers completely too. AND FOR GODS SAKE don't best buy or circuit city it, so over priced.
we are not over priced. bby will match the price if you find it cheaper elsewhere. not bobscaraudio.com, but shit, have you ever tried to return or exchange something you bought online? it gets fucking hostile. not only that, the bby service plan covers "abuse". that means if you amp the piss out of it and blow the speaker, you get a new one. anyway, don't delete the rear speakers, and it's too much hassle to put the tweets elsewhere. unless you're building an sql car, there's no point in doing all that shit. a set of components that replaces the factory tweets, as well as perhaps some coaxial (better than stock) or component (way better than stock) speakers in the back as well. a decent 4 channel amp with low % thd and you're good to go. add a sub if you want, but that setup actually sounds really good. if you're bored, dynamat the floor, doors, trunk, and under the headliner too.
THD is over-rated as an amp spec. It's either audible or it's not. The harmonic content of the distortion affects the sound of the amp much more than the %. If you're going to compromise so much that you're looking at putting tweets in the dash, you may as well save a good deal of money and time and just put coaxial speakers in the doors. Tweeter install doesn't have to be complicated. Simply using an angle surface mount to put them in the sail panel will yield much better results than putting them behind the factory grill in the dash.
With good front speakers, rear speakers are totally unnecessary. Spen the money that you would have on rear speakers on better fronts and a small amp to power them. Power from a real amp is going to make a huge difference. HU amps SUCK across the board.
agreed, hu amps ftl. however, you can get a component set, place the tweeter where the factory 3.5 was, get a decent set of 6x9's for the rear, a 4 channel amp, and you're good to go.
I'd much rather use the rear channels of that amp for a sub than a pair of 6x9s. Something simple like a JL 10 or 12W1 that doesn't need a lot of power or a big box but cn stil provide some real bass.
you don't want to use a class a, b, or a/b hybrid with a sub. it'll get way too hot and tax the shit out of your electrical system. use a class d amp for the sub. separate amp for separate uses. class d won't give you the same sound quality as a and b classes, but it's power management is much more efficient. also, when used for a sub, the human ear can't discern the distortion caused by the power management circutry of the amp. if you're a baller, you can pick up a class T amp, which gives power handling as well as excellent sound quality.
you don't want to use a class a, b, or a/b hybrid with a sub. it'll get way too hot and tax the shit out of your electrical system. use a class d amp for the sub. separate amp for separate uses. class d won't give you the same sound quality as a and b classes, but it's power management is much more efficient. also, when used for a sub, the human ear can't discern the distortion caused by the power management circutry of the amp. if you're a baller, you can pick up a class T amp, which gives power handling as well as excellent sound quality.
I beg to differ on almost all counts. There are no Class A amps made for the car. Class B amps are not made for the car either (or any audio use). Class A/B amps work fine for subs if used properly. I've only ever used one Class D amp in the 17 years I've been doing car audio. I've never had an A/B amp overheat. In fact my big one has only gotten noticeably warmer than ambient temperature once and that was after cranking it into a low impedance load for several hours in the trunk during a Las Vegas summer.
Distortion numbers on modern Class D amps are just as low as Class A/B. Most Class D amps are relegated to sub duty because the switching frequency of the amp is low for better efficiency and falls into the audible range. By limiting the frequency range of the amp the switching noise can be filtered out. There are a couple of full range Class D amps on the market now. They are audibly indistinguishable from the Class A/B amps out there. They are more efficient and draw less current from the car's electrical than a similarly powered A/B amp, but at the power used for mids and highs the difference is only a couple of amps; that isn't the reason to go with a Class D. The Class D amps are tiny. Because they are more efficient and have the same efficiency regardless of the volume level, they don't have to shed a lot of heat like Class A/B amps do. Class A/B are most efficient at full power. At lower volumes the efficiency drops like a rock and all that extra energy is given off as heat. Lots of heat means lots of heatsink and a larger amp.
Now that the technology is there to make quality full range Class D amps, you probably won't see any more "Class T" (in quotes because it isn't a recognized class of amplifier but rather a moniker stuck on switchmode amps, similar to Class Ds, that have a variable switching freq based on the signal being amplified and are controlled by a Tripath chip) amps. What I would like to see is a company make a Class H amp like the old Blade SE amps.
I beg to differ on almost all counts. There are no Class A amps made for the car.
there are a few, but they're expensive niche products for people who dont' know any better :p
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What I would like to see is a company make a Class H amp like the old Blade SE amps.
it's been a while, but from what I remember a discrete Class H amp would be damn expensive and complex to design and sell. There was at least one Class H integrated amp from Philips (now NXP,) the TDA1562. Problem was that it was extremely delicate and prone to burning out the rail lift transistors with 4 ohm speakers (I speak from personal experience.)
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there are a few, but they're expensive niche products for people who dont' know any better :p
There was one. Not currently in production. Minuscule power, ran really hot and was a tube amp.
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it's been a while, but from what I remember a discrete Class H amp would be damn expensive and complex to design and sell. There was at least one Class H integrated amp from Philips (now NXP,) the TDA1562. Problem was that it was extremely delicate and prone to burning out the rail lift transistors with 4 ohm speakers (I speak from personal experience.)
Blade Audio made a whole series in the early 90's. They were tiny and super efficient.
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3 1/2in speaker in the dash?
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