Like I said before, I am no expert but it did work out pretty well for me. Off to a flying start in couple of months. Most of all the info I learned on AG website/forum.
Basically you use the more abrasive compound for badly damaged/oxidated/scratched and work your way to the least abrasive type of compound (ie. polish) for your paint surface. The last processes would be a paint sealant/wax combo to protect it.
I bought myself a Makita with a both options as a Dual Action and High Speed buffer. For a novice/newbie such as myself, I choose the DA mode because I don't want to chance it burning my paint using the High Speed mode (for the professional).
Next steps is choosing the right buffing pads. The one I got was Edge 2000 foam pads because they are reversible, just like having 2 pads in one, you use both side of the pad, and you can easily/quickly change out the pad. You need to buy a adapter that's made specifically for your buffer to use with their foam pads. And they list all the different pads they have and recommend for each different job.
For starter, I didn't want to spend crazy $ on their ultra expensive German made line of compounds/polishs/waxes. So I choose the middle of the line 3M's Professional Formula Line.
Well depending on how badly your paint is, you can use a more abrasive grade of compound ( aggressive to fine cut )as your first step to getting rid of oxidation/swirl/ etc..
So on my CF hood after a car wash, I choose their Rubbing Compound Fine Cut as my first steps using the Edge Green pad. Than I buff off the compound with a Cobra microfiber detailing cloth. You can buff it off using a buffing lambswool or wool pad, but I choose to use to hand/microfiber cloth instead. Too much pad washing. After swipping/buffing off the compound, I move on to less agressive one with a less aggressive pad.
I follow than with the Polishing Pad Glaze (Dark) for dark colour paint with Edge orange pad. Wipe off compound.
Next is the Machine Polish with Edge blue pad. Buffed with micro towel.
Follow with Performance Finish (paint sealant) with edge white pad. Buffed with micro towel.
The last step is a coat of Paste Wax with Edge red pad. Buffed with micro towel. Eventhough I have the buffing pads (wool pad and lambswool), but I have yet to but it to use. I predict that the result will be better if I were to use it after polish/sealant/wax.
For the rest of my car, I'd skip the compounding because there were no oxidation except the cf hood. I was more concern with just getting some of my deep swirl marks. I can say it has removed most of it. I am sure giving time, or my following 2nd or 3rd detailing schedule that I will eventually get 99% of it. Even without using the Perfromance Finish sealant, she still looks a much much better than what it was.
Here's the link to AG's 3M's page. Check out their Edge pads and DP car shampoo etc.. on their Shope By Brand page.
3M Automotive Appearance Products leading through innovation for over 100 years!
I would recomend for anyone to buy a decend buffer with adjustable speed such as a Porter Cable 7424, or Flex but cost $, etc... Don't waste money on a CT Simoniz buffer.
Then pick the correct buffing pads for the job, follow the instructions on the bottle, that's all. Buy some good car shampoo such as DP's (the price is right too) or the expensive Wolfgang's. Wash with a none abrasive mitt/micro towel.
Check out some of their useful detailing tips on the Auto Geek's websit.
Have fun waxing.
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