I'd like to compile a thorough FAQ for the Predator to help clean this section up and focus more on the 'real' issues. If you'd like to add anything, or correct any information, please post here.
What is the Predator?
The Predator is a hand-held flash programmer.
How does the Predator compare to the DTEC, SAFCII, Neo, etc.?
There is a fundamental difference between the Predator and the above tuning devices. Without getting into great detail, the above devices tune by altering the MAP voltage your PCM sees to 'trick' the PCM into a desired result (IE. boost, fuel, timing and so forth). These are, essentially, 'smart' or tuneable map clamps.
The Predator accomplishes the same thing, but more intelligently using an entirely different method. The Predator reflashes your PCM with your tune of choice and further allows you to adjust these tunes by altering boost, spark (timing), fuel and so forth from the hand-held unit.
Is the Predator hard to setup and use?
This may vary from person to person, but in my opinion, not at all. If you buy your Predator from Rage Tek, it comes with a 'canned' 93 octane performance tune. When you connect your Predator to your car for the first time and go into the Performance menu, it'll first copy your current tune, which is most likely your factory PCM tune, to create a backup on the device. At that point, you can either modify the stock tune, or flash the PCM with the 93 octane tune. Before flashing any of the tunes, you can make adjustments to a number of parameters and also undo any changes at a later time if you'd like.
If you purchased the communications kit from Rage Tek, you'll be able to connect the Predator to your PC to update the device with the latest .crom file(s), download/upload tunes, download and view logs and so forth. You can find all of this software here, on the DiabloSport website.
What PCMs is it compatible with?
Because the Predator reflashes the PCM, overwriting certain information while first making a backup of your original information, it can be used with any PCM. This has sparked a lot of debate over which PCM to use and any potential advantages with a stage PCM vs. the stock PCM. Currently the concensus is, if you have a toys PCM, such as Stage 2, you might as well keep it to use the functionality. Otherwise, you'd benefit from selling any staged PCM and using that money to buy or offset the cost of the Predator.
What can I expect with X modifications?
This is a rather pointless question and one this section sees a lot of. The real question should be: What tuning device is best for my needs? There are numerous devices on the market that are all capable of tuning your car. You should consider price, features, ease of use, support and other such things when making this decision. Ultimately, the power you make from your modifications will be a result of two major factors: 1. Your tune, and 2. The device with which you tune.
Depending on the available features/options for tuning, you may be limited (such as pulling fuel with a SAFCII, vs. altering fuel AND timing with a DTEC, or entirely reflashing your PCM with a Predator or the SCT xcal).
Which WGA is best for PCM controlled boost?
Another topic which has already been debated endlessly. Since there are already multiple threads on this, start out by reading over these two threads:
1.
Stiff Wastsgates, Preadator, and PCM Boost
2.
Best WGA for the DSP
At this point in time, there is no specific WGA that has been proven to work better than any other. People have gotten just about every WGA on the market to work with their car. My suggestion is to start out with what you have and go from there. For example, I have a PTP WGA on my car. I will test with that first, then move back to my stock WGA, then perhaps a S2 WGA, then the FM WGA, etc. I feel that in the next few months, this particular issue will have much more data and be cleared up quite a bit.
Another thing to note about PCM controlled boost is the WGDC% set in your tune. Any of the canned tunes that come with your Predator are generally setup for the STOCK WGA. Therefore, if you have an aftermarket WGA with a stiffer spring, you'll more than likely run into issues if the WGDC% isn't set correctly. For stock turbo, bolt-on modified cars, this may not be a readily apparent problem, but can be as you raise the boost.
Will the Predator work with my X turbo setup?
The short answer is yes. However, if you're not running a stock turbo, you will need a custom tune. The tune will include things such as updating parameters to match your injectors, WGDC% for your WGA/boost and other such things to make your car run as smooth as possible without any bogging or excessively rich conditions.
Where can I buy the Predator and how much does it cost?
There are several vendors on the forums that sell the Predator now. Modern Performance, PT-Performance, Rage-Tek, Janetty Racing are just a few off the top of my head. I would suggest you make sure to get an external power supply and a serial to USB data cable so that you can connect the Predator to your computer and power it separately from your OBDII port. The average cost for a Predator ranges from $320 to $375. Some vendors provide, in addition, a package that includes an external power supply and data cable for another $20-$40.
Note: If you are running Vista 32bit or 64bit, there may be some issues with the drivers provided. The standard USB-to-serial cable appears to work with Vista 32bit using the driver located here. I'm using Vista 64bit and wasn't able to get those drivers to work. You'll need to purchase a Vista compatible cable.
What does the Predator come with?
The Predator should come with the handheld flash programmer, driver CD and the manual. In addition, each unit comes with two "canned" tunes. There will be a "Modified Stock Tune" which is essentially a copy of the stock PCM tune so you can change the parameters. There will also be a 91 or 93 octane tune, which is set up for that particular octane. Both tunes are for mildly modified stock NSRT-4's using the factory PCM and injectors. If you upgrade to larger injectors or an aftermarket WGA, you will need to get these rescaled for the tune to ensure your car runs properly and is able to be tuned properly.
Where can I get a custom tune, and how much does it cost?
There are a number of vendors on the forum capable of providing e-mail or dyno tunes. You can also use the CMR dealer locator.
How many tunes can the Predator hold?
The Predator can hold up to 5 custom tunes at one time. This is a direct quote from their site. Considering their use of 'custom tunes', I assume it can hold your original back up plus 5 additional custom tunes. I'm trying to verify this.
Can I use my Predator on more than one car?
The simple answer is no; at least, not at the same time. The first thing the Predator will do when you attempt to modify a tune is create an "Original Backup". This is a backup file of your current PCM. After this Original Backup is created, the handheld is mated to your car by its VIN. At this point, you CANNOT use the handheld on any car but your own until you restore the Original Backup. Once the Original Backup is restored, it essentially resets the handheld so that it's able to be mated to another car.
Note: I strongly suggest making a second backup of the "Original Backup" on your computer in the event anything happens with the handheld (issue with updating .crom files, electric spike during a write to your PCM, etc.).
Should I buy a used Predator/Can I sell my used Predator?
There is nothing wrong with buying or selling a used Predator. HOWEVER, as mentioned in the last entry, you need to make sure the Predator has been reset and unmated. For a buyer, you can have someone take a picture of the information section of the Predator. When mated, it will list the VIN of the car it's mated to. For the seller, make sure you restore your Original Backup to reset the handheld before selling/shipping it.
Note: If you receive or send a Predator that is still mated to a car, I do believe it's possible to have a CMR dealer unlock it for you. Even so, I do not recommend this.
Which parameters should I log?
duster360 has written up a fairly thorough list of parameters you should log. The thread can be located here: What Parameters to Datalog - and here's the quote from duster360:
Quote: Originally Posted by
duster360 
Everyday tuning Spark and Fuel ,LOG THESE AT A MINIMUM
Knock control-->
KnK ST Retard
KNK LT Retard
KNK Total Retard
Spark-->
Actual Spark Cy1( you can do Cyl 2,3,4 also but there's USUALLY little difference)
Spark adjust
EPDSS-->
RPM
Foundation inputs-->
MPH
Throttle Sensor Input--> *More clearly IDs WOT
THR POSN
Map-->
AV MAP TO USE
INJECTOR--->
AVG TOTAL WORKING PW
FUEL FLOWS--->
1/1 LONG TERM ADAP
1/1 SHORT TEM ADAP
PRATIO
BARO
COOLANT TEMP-->
ECT
CHARGE TEMP-->
ACT
DESIRED FUEL AIR-->
OPEN LOOP FA
The more BS you log the SLOWER the sample rate is. So if you're doing some serious tuning/diagnostics, don't log SHIT YOU DON'T NEED, it will just slow things down. With that said, I have logged over 95 pids at once and the slowest rate I have gotten was 1.2 seconds/sample.
I'm trying to adjust the WOT fuel and my A/Frs aren't changing. What's going on?
The most common reason for this is lack of fuel. If your fuel system is at its limit and you attempt to add additional fuel, you won't notice a difference. A good way to determine the state of your current fuel setup is to monitor your injector duty cycle. This can by done with an Aeroforce Scangauge (not sure if there is a PID for this using the Predator?).
How do I get rid of my knock?
This is, more or less, what tuning is all about; maximizing power while minimizing detonation. There's no simple answer to this question. If you're seeing knock, adjust your parameters until you're seeing 1-3 knock and then log a pull in third or fourth gear. From this log, you can see at what points you're getting knock and adjust your boost, fuel and timing to remove/minimize it. For assistance with your log file, e-mail me (jbailey[at]whitehack.org) and I'll add your log to the log page on this site so you can link it to people and have others look it over.
Note: Make sure you are adjusting WOT spark and not MBT spark.
How do I tune my car?
This is a much broader question that is outside the scope of this page. I am working on putting together some general tuning knowledge into one place on this site to help the newbies. If you'd like any one particular subject/topic covered, let me know.
What is the difference between ST knock and LT knock?
First off, ST stands for short term and LT stands for long term. Long term knock is a "learned" value based on short term knock. As an example, if your PCM is seeing a consistent count of short term knock at a certain RPM range, it will eventually set the long term knock for that range to reduce timing. This is a protection, or preventative function to keep the engine from sustaining damage over a period of time. If you're seeing any LT knock in your logs, you'll have to reset your PCM to clear the values. Take note of the LT knock and when you're seeing it, however, because chances are you will need to adjust your ST knock to prevent LT knock.
DiabloSport U7134 Predator F.A.Q.
Good job.
Thanks for catching that. 
Linear Mode
