whats up everyone. i have an issue that i would like some input on. here is my situation.
my cars setup is as follows
F&F 44lb stage 3
ALL stage 3 fueling being controlled by the PCM
Mopar Dropin filter
Thermal R&D exhaust (catless)
stage 3 wga
SO here is my dilemma. after i put everything in the car was running awesome. was seeing 11.8's to 12.2's for afrs at redline with the F&F 44lber
the car was a frickin beast, my aeroforce gauge showed no knock and i was seeing a consistent 460 hp on the gauge ( i know its really not that high but its a good to know whats going on with the car)
and say bout a month ago, i put on my spare catted thermal DP so i could pass inspection. and after i put it on the car felt slow as hell but im just thinking it was a coincidence cuz i took it off after inspection and the car is still slow as crap
as of now the car is quite slow, im only seeing about 395hp on the aeroforce gauge, and the afr's are below 10 the whole time im at full boost at WOT.
was now
460hp 395
11.8'safrs below 10's
SO does anyone have any ideas? the plugs looked decent nothing to say anything otherwise. i have a spare stage 3 wga im gonna pop on to see if that helps. my boost levels havent changed at all. soo im kinda stumped.
what in the hell would cause a fully pcm controlled car to be unbeleveiably rich all of a sudden.
i reset the pcm a few times, and also did a boostleak test up to 25 psi, it the engine is as leakfree as a dolphins arsehole. could my turbo be screwed? its not making any weird noises. the car drives completely normal. but when i go wot the thing is just drowning in fuel. and i cant figure out why.
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Switch to being a Yankee fan and I'm sure the problems will go away.
LOL! Seriously though it could be that during the swapping process maybe the oxygen sensor got messed up, although it isn't throwing a code it could be fouled, dirty or otherwise damaged, they are fairly sensitive. Other than that all I can think of is maybe the stock FPR is messing up?
On a fluke though it could also be that the warm weather is affecting the way the CPU makes adjustments?
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www.bwoodyperformance.com Mods: AGP GT3076R DBB Turbo
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O2 sensors are sensitive and can get tweaked the wrong way if not handled properly but the 2nd 02 is just for measuring things to see if the cat is flowing correctly and the first or primary O2 is the one having the most effect on things.
Interesting in that the issue only relates to swapping the down pipes. Any chance that theres codes but not being displayed hard. You can have codes without the check engine lamp lit........just throwing that out there in case did not think of already.
Staged kits do not look at the 2nd O2 for info correct?
O2 sensors are sensitive and can get tweaked the wrong way if not handled properly but the 2nd 02 is just for measuring things to see if the cat is flowing correctly and the first or primary O2 is the one having the most effect on things.
Interesting in that the issue only relates to swapping the down pipes. Any chance that theres codes but not being displayed hard. You can have codes without the check engine lamp lit........just throwing that out there in case did not think of already.
Staged kits do not look at the 2nd O2 for info correct?
Mine did, not sure what code it would throw but at idle I was super lean till I replaced it, like 17 AFR, had to keep foot on gas a little at lights, when the first one went about 3k miles before the second it was insane rich at all times or lean, would fluctuate back and forth, odd how they did the opposite of each other though.
the o2 sensors are only about 3 months old, i changed them both when i did the turbo/mani. im gonna go throw the code reader on it and see what it says. I thought when you went WOT that the 02sensors arent used.
did you force it off perhaps moving the exhaust manifold? I'm thinking if that was loosened it could be like a boost leak. where does your wideband read from?
did you force it off perhaps moving the exhaust manifold? I'm thinking if that was loosened it could be like a boost leak. where does your wideband read from?
no no forcing anything. i actually checked the top manifold bolts when i swapped in my spare stage 3 wga thismorning, and they were all tight. the wideband sensor is before the cat. have had 3 downpipes on the car in the last few days to try to eliminate any questions about it being the DP. i have had a maxxfab catted dp, a thermal gutted downpipe and a thermal dp with the cat. and the afr's were all exactly the same. i even left 2 of the dp bolts loose to see if it would affect the wideband readings at idle and it did make it read super lean it the gauge wouldnt even register. so the wideband gauge is definetly good. i dunno wat the deal is its getting annoying.
Not sure about the power loss. But I'll tell you I picked up a consistent 3mph in trap speeds by switching to a 3" intake as opposed to the drop in filter.
Also, for your O2 sensor issues....that sensor shouldnt have anything to do with AFRs as you are only disconnecting/connecting the secondary O2, which is only there for monitor catalyst efficiency.
what do your short term & long term fuel trims look like while your AFR's are fubared?
iddunno, do u want me to do a wot run and long them? ill give u the #s or do you want to know what there doin while im just cruising.
I jsut popped in my 615cc injectors i got from realtune a month ago. and when i pulled the stage 2's out, one of the injector tips looked wet while the others were dry. took it out for a spin the pcm has to lean the new injectors. im thinking the dw s2's were crappin out. i did go wot with the 615's in 2nd gear and i saw a 417hp spike real quick, so they def helped. maby ill get another set of s2's and see how they are if the 615's are to big.
watch your long term & short term trims while cruising & wot ... the long term should stay as close to 0 as possible - you don't have a piggyback so yours SHOULD sit right at 0 ... I drove stage3matt's car earlier today & his long term fuel trims are at 0 all the time
if either of your trims are + while wot then that would be your problem (more than likely will be your long term trim if it's a constant problem as of late) ... if that's the case, then you gotta find why the pcm is trying to add fuel in that cell (goes by rpm's and by map voltage)
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Lets Dump my car in a goddam river! help lol
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