Ok so i have a quick question.....I have installed an AGP wastegate and Turbosmart BC.....what is the best way to go about tuning it.....i have turned the BC all the off....but when in idle i can still rev it to produce 20+ Lbs of boost........scary.....i did this at work so i have yet to take it out on the road yet....but once i figure where its spiking, what than?? I got it second hand so it was pre adjusted, but i am sure i would have to adjust it to my car....any input, tips or wise words would be greatly appreciated.....by the way its a stage 1 2004, AEM short ram and stock everything else
Ideally you want a wideband at this point Tim to see what your AFR's are going to be at during Wide Open Throttle. Until you get one of those, you really have no clue how rich or lean your engine conditions are. Relying on just boost is very dangerous. Your car may run and feel great at a certain boost but you may be slowly killing your engine do to a lean condition. Without a wideband, DO NOT go more than 18 to 19 psi running on the AGP wastegate with Stage 1. You can set it to this for now and then tune it later when you have all the proper equipment. Good luck man, I hope this helps.
Ideally you want a wideband at this point Tim to see what your AFR's are going to be at during Wide Open Throttle. Until you get one of those, you really have no clue how rich or lean your engine conditions are. Relying on just boost is very dangerous. Your car may run and feel great at a certain boost but you may be slowly killing your engine do to a lean condition. Without a wideband, DO NOT go more than 18 to 19 psi running on the AGP wastegate with Stage 1. You can set it to this for now and then tune it later when you have all the proper equipment. Good luck man, I hope this helps.
true true....I figured out that my boost controller was fucked.....when i tried putting in a couple of weeks ago with spoogenhatch i unscrewed one of the nipples and a spring and ball bearing came flying out, i put em back in but i must have missed something...anywho....its all good now....got the agp on and everything seems to be ok....at work so i havent been able to take it on the road yet, but it aint boosting 20 lbs in idle anymore.....
true true....I figured out that my boost controller was fucked.....when i tried putting in a couple of weeks ago with spoogenhatch i unscrewed one of the nipples and a spring and ball bearing came flying out, i put em back in but i must have missed something...anywho....its all good now....got the agp on and everything seems to be ok....at work so i havent been able to take it on the road yet, but it aint boosting 20 lbs in idle anymore.....
I wish I would have known that when you called. I have 2 different versions of MBC here in stock, I like the TS unit. Let me know if you need one, thanks.
When installing the WGA, as long as you're running around 17 pounds on stage 0, I shouldn't need to check a/f and all that jazz?
There are alot of engine rebuild shops that think the way you do to. Spend a little extra and buy a good A/F guage. It doesn't make you go faster, but it definately will keep you from coming to a complete stop. Information is knowledge. I have read some of the credible old timers say the first mod should be an A/F guage, wonder why, Hmmmmmm. Good Luck.
Can't say I think that way. It's why I was asking. I was a "saw it on tv lets do it" type tuner until I got my SRT4, now looking into it there's a lot of stuff you don't know about that goes into tuning and I'm just starting to learn about widebands and A/F ratios. I definitely want to do it right and keep up the car, so I was checking to see. Will be getting a wideband when I learn more about it and dialing it in. WGA is on hold for now.
And definitely going to give thanks for the lack of flame when flame was needed.
Can't say I think that way. It's why I was asking. I was a "saw it on tv lets do it" type tuner until I got my SRT4, now looking into it there's a lot of stuff you don't know about that goes into tuning and I'm just starting to learn about widebands and A/F ratios. I definitely want to do it right and keep up the car, so I was checking to see. Will be getting a wideband when I learn more about it and dialing it in. WGA is on hold for now.
And definitely going to give thanks for the lack of flame when flame was needed.
A wideband is good, but a datalogger is better
From what I hear you shouldn't be going above 19 psi on the stocker anyways without clipping the turbine. Also, to go above 20 psi you will need a map clamp or stage2-3.
My vote is: (in this order)
AEM uego wideband - $255
Apexi s-afc - $285
good tune
AGP return line kit - $410
good tune
3" Turboback Exhaust or open downpipe - $250 - $1000
good tune
(most of these parts can be found used for half the price or less)
that along with your current mods will get you started. It is a proven setup and with a good tune (please don't DIY) should be running you low 13's or high 12's all day long in the 1/4 without having to worry about blowing your motor.
If you go any other route you will probably end up spending thousands more on either repairs or parts. The really nice thing about doing it this way is you don't need all the parts at once. Each one can be installed separately and will help you just that much more. You might be tempted to spend tons of money on intercoolers, suspension, injectors, etc but there is really no need until you get the basics out of the way.
Just remember, the more you spend the more your going to have to spend. Ask anyone who has ever done a big turbo and they will tell ya.
What are some of the better tuner shops close to salem for the SRT? I went through the list and saw some of the shops. I'm planning on working supporting mods until I do enough research that I don't walk in there like a total idiot and have no clue what I want.
A wideband is good, but a datalogger is better
From what I hear you shouldn't be going above 19 psi on the stocker anyways without clipping the turbine. Also, to go above 20 psi you will need a map clamp or stage2-3.
My vote is: (in this order)
AEM uego wideband - $255
Apexi s-afc - $285
good tune
AGP return line kit - $410
good tune
3" Turboback Exhaust or open downpipe - $250 - $1000
good tune
(most of these parts can be found used for half the price or less)
that along with your current mods will get you started. It is a proven setup and with a good tune (please don't DIY) should be running you low 13's or high 12's all day long in the 1/4 without having to worry about blowing your motor.
If you go any other route you will probably end up spending thousands more on either repairs or parts. The really nice thing about doing it this way is you don't need all the parts at once. Each one can be installed separately and will help you just that much more. You might be tempted to spend tons of money on intercoolers, suspension, injectors, etc but there is really no need until you get the basics out of the way.
Just remember, the more you spend the more your going to have to spend. Ask anyone who has ever done a big turbo and they will tell ya.
I'm in love with my Zeitronic Data Logger, show it to ya track day
What are some of the better tuner shops close to salem for the SRT? I went through the list and saw some of the shops. I'm planning on working supporting mods until I do enough research that I don't walk in there like a total idiot and have no clue what I want.
not sure in Salem. In Portland there is PREracing (my recommendation), PDX tuning, and VIP. I know PRE will quote the SAFC install + tune if you call them. 503-619-0055. I think you will be surprised how much your car will wake up with just a tune. They dyno tune with a/f so you don't need a wideband to get stuff done there. You could do the SAFC first and skip the wideband, then just watch for overboost (happens when its really cold and dry) because that can cause a lean condition even with the SAFC. I think they tell you to just turn down your mbc a couple clicks in the frigged cold then back up for warmer weather. A friend of mine ran low 13's on just a safc, solid mounts, and slicks not powershifting with a tune from PRE.
Oh and as for sounding like an idiot with no clue what you want.... they understand and work with you. A good shop won't make fun of you or try to rip you off because you arn't a mechanic or tuner. Just call up and say "I have an adjustable wastegate and a manual boost controller and was told that an SAFC would be a good next step. What do you recommend?" then let the shop take it from there. Make sure you tell them you want to run as much boost as you can with the stock fuel system.
BTW, tuning is kinda expensive but worth it. Once you get the initial setup changing things just requires mild tweaks and can usually be taken care of in a half hour of road tuning with a good tuner. Figure about $80/hr minium for tuning and another $80ish/hr for dyno time (if you are having it dyno tuned) Street tuning is usually just the shop rate. Also, if you name drop at PRE they might hook you up a bit. (say Checksum sent ya)
Thanks a lot checksum, appreciate it. Right now I'm runnin just a CAI... Next week taxes come and it's going to be exhaust and planned on upper and lower sides with the hks. Might go with the SAFC and AGP WGA now and get the pipes when I get the may kicker. The money is rollin in at the right time
Salem sucks for tuning. When I was in Wichita there was a lot of tuners there, and when I left salem there were a lot of tin can hondas with tints and all that jazz. But I haven't seen anybody out lately. I'm hoping it's just because of the weather.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.