Dyno'd this past w/e @ Axiom in S. Tacoma/Lakewood area. $60 got me 3 passes; Patrick the tech threw in another 2 for good measure, just to see if we could get it higher by experimenting. They use the Dynapack dyno there, not sure how it compares to DynoJet rollers. As seems to be the case for EVERY shop down here, they seem to do mostly hondas, but I was the 2nd SRT in the shop that day. (Who else was there???)
Again, not sure how #'s compare to any other dyno, but here we are:
Stage 0, CAI, Mopar noisemaker baseline dyno
Ambient air temp ranged from 87.2F - 90.1F
Baro steady @ 29.7, Humidity ranged 25.5 - 28.1
the wheels tires dont matter on a dynapack. a dynapack is the kind that bolts to the cars hubs. no wheel/tire combo on the vehicle when dynoing!
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Not sure how you can measure whp without the wheels on the car... They're a big part of it. I also don't know how they can measure torque at the flywheel without an engine dyno. At the very least they'd have to take into account the weight of the drivetrain parts (if not the dimensions), and I doubt they do.
I'd assume that your numbers would be much different on a DynoJet. I've dyno'd several times at TurboTech in Tacoma (not the SRT), and they used to give us great prices for groups (like $20 for 3 pulls). I may try to set something up with them in the near future.
BTW - To cool off our engines you run the AC, not the heat. Bass-ackwards, I know.
Not sure how you can measure whp without the wheels on the car... They're a big part of it. I also don't know how they can measure torque at the flywheel without an engine dyno. At the very least they'd have to take into account the weight of the drivetrain parts (if not the dimensions), and I doubt they do.
I'd assume that your numbers would be much different on a DynoJet. I've dyno'd several times at TurboTech in Tacoma (not the SRT), and they used to give us great prices for groups (like $20 for 3 pulls). I may try to set something up with them in the near future.
BTW - To cool off our engines you run the AC, not the heat. Bass-ackwards, I know.
In place of wheels, they mount the dyno up to the lugs, so you're spinning the "pack" part of dynaPACK. he measures rim size, weight, etc. before starting the dyno. They use a somewhat complicated exponential algorithm to come up with the torque @ flywheel that is accurate to within 6 sigma (.999997 percent).
I have talked to TurboTech, and I think I'll go there for gits and shiggles if we can get it cheaper than the $40 for 1 pass, $10 per add'l that I was quoted. You want me to go ahead and ask them for a group discount for 10 cars? We'd have to find the 10 cars, too.
Finally, what source makes the claim about running a/c to remove heat in place of the heater? I've never heard that, but I'd be interested to read the science behind that...... thanks in advance, SRTKid.
BTW, are you the guy imageisme01 told me to get ahold of to get help and ideas installing parts?
I'm anxious to dyno again, had the water pump replaced today, and its a whole new car. It appears that it had a bad bearing and seal to begin with, which could be the cause of my consistantly low dyno runs. The morning at WOT I was boosting to 12.5, maybe 13 lbs at best. after the pump was replaced, 15psi solid, with a nice strong pull all the way there.
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6x6. 44,000lbs. 860 lbft of Torque.
1) I've dyno'd up at the place in Kent which is on the rollers. I was bone stock. So if we dyno'd on the other system with my bone stock then we could compare graphs and the only real variables would be temperature and humidity. I've still got my graph w/ numbers from my run in Kent. I think Zane set up the deal with the guys in Kent for a group event. Might want to compare notes and see which is the better deal.
Quote: Originally Posted by TheSRTKid
BTW - To cool off our engines you run the AC, not the heat. Bass-ackwards, I know.
2) I understood that turning on the heater actually helps your radiator temperature, which affects your engine temperature. If it's like the heater in my old mustang there's a side mini radiator that collects antifreeze from the radiator and uses the mini radiator to heat the air which is then sent through the air vents into the cabin. That's why it takes vehicles a little while to heat up the cabin air via the heater. The radiator fluid isn't warm enough to transfer heat through the mini radiator until after running the engine for awhile. On the other hand AC cools the air almost immediately in comparison. My father also used to run the heater to bring down engine temperatures in overheating situations while we were up in the mountains in the middle of summer. (Heater on in the middle of summer sucks btw.) On the other hand Air Conditioning is a drain on the system and affects gas mileage, which tells me that the car has to do more work to produce cold air. That would lead me to believe that the car had to work harder and therfor would produce more load on the system, negatively affecting the performance.
Anyone care to fill in the holes? I'm not claiming that the "AC is best for Dyno runs" is wrong, just explaining how I understand things.
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JR is right that the AC turns on the other fan. I can't say for sure why this is, but I have a pretty decent theory. Lots of cars have problems overheating with the AC on, especially in traffic. Since we make more heat than the average car due to the turbo and its placement, my guess is that they made that fan turn on with the AC for just that reason. As Matt said, his car stayed cool in the 95 degree heat in traffic. Just a theory.
As for calling TT, we might want to throw a big post up about. With the Mopar show and the Rainier drive coming up, there's a lot to do. I'd guess that late August or early September might be a good time for a dyno, weather permitting. I could call them if you want, as I set up multiple dynos with my Probe club in the past, so they know who I am.
As for ideas and help with parts, I don't know if I'm the guy he mentioned to you, but I'm sure I can probably help. Drop me a PM if you have questions or anything.
Well Turbo tech is cheaper but they offer one run then charge extra each additional. Also charge up the a$$ for A/F. If we wanted to do the Kent place again. I think I can get the same deal. I can also talk with them about maybe knocking $5 off everyones dyno and put a link up on Phatlane for them or something. We'll see. If enough people hassle me I'll do it. With my car being down for a while and all my car show crap its hard to focus.
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by the way your TQ numbers are so high because its at the fly. a generic calculation is to knoch 10-15% off that number to to get what you get to the ground.
SRTKid, yah, why don't ya set something up w/ TT? You're the man w/ the plan, and you've done it plenty before. I hope we can work a better deal than $5 off a dyno. If we get 12 cars, 3 passes per @ $50, that's a $600 day for them. By some stroke of marketing genius, if we could get 20 or more cars, the deal might get better. My thing w/ them is, they're less likely to work with us since they don't work on SRTs regularly. Hard to guarantee them follow-on business if they don't sell our parts, you know?
As for the high torque # b/c it's at the fly, I was under the impression that *is* where you measure torque. You don't measure @ the wheel quite the same way as you would HP. Otherwise, what's this Torque LBft column next to the TorqFly LBft that reads in the 830 lb-ft range @ 2500 rpm? I didn't think you figured drivetrain loss for torque exactly as you would for HP.
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Recommend Axiom Motorsport in S. Tacoma
They're a big part of it. I also don't know how they can measure torque at the flywheel without an engine dyno. At the very least they'd have to take into account the weight of the drivetrain parts (if not the dimensions), and I doubt they do. 
j/k, of course
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