I feel I need to write you a letter explaining a few things since I have had my car back. I realize writing a letter is a futile attempt since everything has already been paid, however at least letting you guys know about it might give me some solace.
You need to realize, before my car went down to you guys, it ran perfect. I never had a single issue with it, and it operated as a car you would expect with 20K miles on it to operate. And since the length of time it was down there put it past the warranty period, I have to fix a lot of this stuff on my own.
Since it has come back the following things have happened:
-My brake light and ABS light are still on. Travis and David both told me this would go away with a couple key cycles, as it had to do with the computer freaking out about being on the dyno with the front wheels moving at 130mph and the rear wheels not moving. A week ago I almost got in a car accident, because my ABS doesn’t even work. Which is why I am guessing those lights are on. I know the ABS and brake lights were not on before the car left, because I powered the car prior to Ron picking it up. This is a huge issue, getting a car back with faulty brakes.
-There is a bolt missing from my turbo turbine housing to my downpipe. I know the engine was moved around to get that bracket out, and removing the downpipe from the turbine housing would have had to be done in order to accomplish this.
-Turbo is now leaking oil on the oil-return line. Once again have not ever had an issue with this turbo. It has 13K miles on it.
-The axle you guys installed, it does not look like the axle on the other side of the car. What did this come from? The reason I ask is, I broke it in half on 12psi in 1st gear on Saturday night. 12psi is stock power, and I am not even making stock power at the moment. (explained below). The original axle (on the drives side) is just fine, this one broke right at the CV boot, where it was said there was a failure before.
-I had to buy a new BOV spring because the one that was in the BOV currently, did not open all the way under normal driving conditions. I am curious how this was missed while getting up to speed on the dyno.
-I went to KITO Auto Sports up here in Seattle 2 weekends ago. Using the tune you guys laid out, and all the same settings as before, the car made 346 whp and 396wtq at 30psi. Running 15psi I barely broke 200whp. Stock WHP on an unmodified SRT-4 is 235whp, 250wtq. This was the first time I have been over 15psi since I picked the car up. The graph doesn’t even look the same. And this is the same dyno setup as your dyno. The sheets are identical (same software, same mustang dyno).
-The 15PSI tune I received runs way too rich, and does not make anywhere near the power it did before it came to your shop. I haven’t even tried the 20psi tune. And the 30PSI tune as you can see in the previous message is about 140whp short of where it should be at. All these settings are causing compressor surge from boost coming on way too fast, and also from incorrect boost controller settings. I am sure this has to do with improper DTEC settings regarding my boost settings.
-Even though I am on the 15psi map, the car does not break 12psi. It sits at 11-12.5. Which seems odd considering I can’t boost any lower than 15. I am wondering if the car was ever checked for boost leaks.
-A bolt from my alternator was half-way worked out. Again it’s a surprising miss considering its right next to the passenger wheel well (which does not have its cover on) and you can see it clear as day through the spokes on my wheels.
-My dash is scratched up near where the lip comes down. This was in fine condition before the car left. I am guessing this was from leaving the lip partially connected to the top of the dash while moving around in the cabin and doing wiring.
-The SRT boost gauge has not properly read boost or vacuum since I left the site. Another curious miss. I am currently getting this warranty replaced.
-I fixed my drivability issues in about 15 minutes, but in the state it came from the shop I didn’t notice just how bad it was till I was going in slower / stop light traffic. But we discussed that before I left, saying it needed more “part throttle tuning”.
-Leaking coolant out of what appears to be a bleed nipple just under where the thermostat is. Also this coolant is red in color…. MOPAR coolant is green. What coolant was put in the car? I know there was mention of a leak before, probably dealing with the motor being moved for the bracket replacement.
-My cars temperature has surpassed 200degrees several times since getting it back. The needle never budged over 200 once in last years summer, and we had record breaking heat-waves that year. I feel this may have something to do with the coolant, or maybe something being missed when moving the motor around.
-My spark plugs, I checked them upon arrival to my home, and they were gapped at .50 A turbo 4, and in this specific application, should never be above a .35. In fact I normally gap for .30.
I have cleaned up quite a few messes that seem to have been “left behind” so to speak. Namely some un-clean wiring, a couple vacuum connects that were improperly setup.
I feel like I have a car that has 100,000 miles on it with all these issues. It’s been a non-stop head-ache since I have got it back. Especially explaining to most people who know me, and are in the industry, that it took 5 months to get to this point.
I know that there are parts are labor that are factored in to the total cost of everything, however I feel that this tuning is below acceptable. Even for Wide open throttle tuning. Not being able to make the same mark (400+whp at 22psi w/o injection) alone is cause for complaint. But the sheer fact that 15psi and 21 psi maps currently run far too rich, where not monitored for knock, and have poor timing settings is bad enough, not including the improper boost tuning, surging, and lack of power that is easily there. The 30 psi is far from being worth any cost incurred.
I feel like the money I spent on tuning was a complete waste. Everything else can be taken in stride, and I can take care of on my own even at my own expense. But roughly 700$ for the tune I do not believe is an acceptable or fair cost incurred on my part. Especially since it seems some of the most important monitoring techniques (knock, intake temp, knock retard) on this type of MOPAR, where not taken into consideration at all. Even a basic boost leak test.
Anyways, this experience has been far below satisfactory, and I do try to explain to most people that you guys do V8’s and Ford’s really well Probably GM too. But I believe this was a huge mistake to have my SRT-4 sent to your shop. I guess I was hoping for some more familiarity with my setup as it was made to seem prior to letting it be towed down there.
-Eric
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I don't wanna be a dick, but the coolant is the correct color.
Otherwise it sounds like they really screwed you over bad and that sucks. You should circulate this to all the different car sites to give the shop a black eye. Also, have you considered contacting the Better Business Bureau and some local news agencies? The news folks will sometimes pick up these stories of consumers getting screwed.
I don't wanna be a dick, but the coolant is the correct color.
Otherwise it sounds like they really screwed you over bad and that sucks. You should circulate this to all the different car sites to give the shop a black eye. Also, have you considered contacting the Better Business Bureau and some local news agencies? The news folks will sometimes pick up these stories of consumers getting screwed.
really its red? the stuff thats in the bottle of leftover mopar coolant i got from mark is green. weird.
Anyways I dunno why my fuckin needle passes 200, it does it all the time now, and it never did it before.
And as far as the BBB I just don't know how this can help me.
I don't wanna be a dick, but the coolant is the correct color.
Otherwise it sounds like they really screwed you over bad and that sucks. You should circulate this to all the different car sites to give the shop a black eye. Also, have you considered contacting the Better Business Bureau and some local news agencies? The news folks will sometimes pick up these stories of consumers getting screwed.
really its red? the stuff thats in the bottle of leftover mopar coolant i got from mark is green. weird.
Anyways I dunno why my fuckin needle passes 200, it does it all the time now, and it never did it before.
And as far as the BBB I just don't know how this can help me.
If they are a member of BBB you can file a complaint and BBB will mediate the problem with the company on your behalf. I'd explore every avenue possible to make their lives hell, seen as how that's what you're going thru with your car right now.
You also might consider going to small claims court to recoup the money you paid them. You paid for a service that you didn't receive/wasn't done correctly.
This is my 2 cents and only 2 cents I can say. It is unfortunate that they did a poor job so you claim, but did they make you sign any waivers? Did they put it in writing that you would see 400+. If you could get another shop to back you with different results on paper, maybe you could get Fast Speacialty to help you out. But I believe they will say it is a performance car and they will produce documents stating that they achieved adequate results. Not trying to flame ya eric, but I think they will blow you off. Forget them and start with the basics again. BBB would be a good shot but it is your words agianst theres if no other shop will back you. PM me if you need help, tuning is not my specialty I leave that to the ricers.
I dynoed my SRT-4 once up there when it was stock and my friend dynoed his PT GT twice after he'd modded it a couple of times. Never had problems, but never had them work on our cars, either. Sorry to hear of your problems.
my main issue right now, is i think they gave me a stock neon axle or something, it looks nothing like the stock srt-4 axle, and my daily driver is now down becuase of it.
Outside of tuning, all those other problems are what is keeping me from driving the car....
Oil leaking out of the turbo is my next big concern.
Eric sorry to hear about your problems man. Good shops are getting harder and harder to find. I swear most shops stop listening to you the second you pay your bill. So hit them where it hurts most.... there bottom line. You have done a great job letting this forum know how you where delt with and how your car was "fixed" and "tuned". At this point i wouldn't direct an oil change to Fast.
Eric sorry to hear about your problems man. Good shops are getting harder and harder to find. I swear most shops stop listening to you the second you pay your bill. So hit them where it hurts most.... there bottom line. You have done a great job letting this forum know how you where delt with and how your car was "fixed" and "tuned". At this point i wouldn't direct an oil change to Fast.
Randy
x2 on that. Anyone asks me I will let them know to steer clear of them.
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