how to set vac lines up w/ AVCR for ext. WG, and other ?'s
any clue?
i know you use the COM and NC ports on the solenoid instead of the COM/NO.
srtowner said in one thread:
Quote:
Now you need to mount and hook up the solenoid valve from the AVC-R. It's the large rectangular thing. (VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: The AVC-R's remote solenoid valve comes with TWO BRASS HOSE NIPPLES already threaded into two ports on the valve: "COM" and "NO". If you are running an aftermarket turbo setup with an external wastegate, you'll need to remove the brass nipple on the "NO" port (leaving it as open atmosphere) and threading it into the port labeled "NC".) It's the large rectangular thing. Find a place to mount it that requires the SHORTEST amount of tubing, but also keeps it safely away from turbo heat.
Next, you need to use some of the thicker included vacuum hose from your turbo's compressor housing (where the green line was originally connected) to the "NO" port on the AVC-R's solenoid valve. Then run another piece of vacuum tubing from the "COM" port to your Wastegate Actuator. (BIG TURBO USERS: Run a vacuum line from the "NC" port instead of the "NO" port to your external wastegate). Use the included hose clamps and zip ties to secure everything nice and neatly.
just running 1 line from the turbo to the solenod then to the WG doesnt seem right.
i would think you'd use BOTH ports on the ext. WG for an EBC.
any ideas?
and WTF is the pressure sensor for? they say in the manual to T it into fuel press. regulator. wth?
yeah you would need both, otherwise you would only get the spring boost psi and no more
AFAIK on the AVC-R you need the boost sensor because it doesnt just use a duty=whatever psi depending on WG spring. It is smart and you can enter like 15psi and it will give you 15psi. So basically if you change WG springs then you shouldn't have to change all the boost settings b/c there is no duty just psi.
That manual sucks, but page 44 has the info
If you look at the Eboost2 manual and pictures for hookup(under 2.7 on page 6), just use:
port1=NC= right port= line from turbo compressor T'd into bottom of WG and NC
port2=COM= left port= line from COM to top of WG
port3=NO= Middle port=vent
yeah you would need both, otherwise you would only get the spring boost psi and no more
AFAIK on the AVC-R you need the boost sensor because it doesnt just use a duty=whatever psi depending on WG spring. It is smart and you can enter like 15psi and it will give you 15psi. So basically if you change WG springs then you shouldn't have to change all the boost settings b/c there is no duty just psi.
That manual sucks, but page 44 has the info
If you look at the Eboost2 manual and pictures for hookup(under 2.7 on page 6), just use: port1=NC= right port= line from turbo compressor T'd into bottom of WG and NC
port2=COM= left port= line from COM to top of WG
port3=NO= Middle port=vent
yea the instructions SUCK NUTS
i set it like the way you stated last nite after sitting and figuring out that mess they call a instruction booklet.
and i ran the pressure sensor to my TB. it was saying to T it into my fuel pressure regulator...wtf?
only mishap at this point is i accidentally hooked my rpm signal to my coil instead of my tach adapter, so rpm signal is off by like 500rpms.
set my boost to 20psi, and it way overshot to like 25. prob. wouldve gone higher but i let off.
im assuming ill need to lower my duty cycle..its at 70% (per the how-to...tho that was for a small ass stock turbo that needs high sol. duty cycle to boost hgih) down to like 50.
pretty simple to use device, just wished it used psi instead of that weird ass pressure.
yeah hell if its got duty and the boost, hell I dont know
must be they just have a sensor instead of running a vac line to the controller(just for the display, like a gauge), so you still use duty to change the boost, maybe the psi setting is the WG open setting?, where it starts to open, so should be like 3-4psi before what boost you want to run. Edit: Actually I think its obviously for the display and I think its used in the "learning" mode or whatever
I never used one so?
but after you figure it out maybe doing boost by MPH instead of boost by gear will work better? Although it may have the same issue that I think my Eboost2 has(read below). And I think others have the boost by gear working good.
I know the only issue on the Eboost2 using boost by MPH instead of boost by rpm is this:
You have 20 set points of boost(duty cycle) that you can change. but only 1 setting for when the WG opens. SO if I have my lowest psi at 10 psi for 10MPH, then I have to have the WG open at 8psi. Then if I'm going 50MPH I believe the WG will still start opening at 8psi meaning slow spool. I havent messed around with it much but I believe thats the case.
Last edited by SpeedEuphoria : 05-02-2008 at 11:24 AM.
I was just looking at the manual again, it sucks and is hard to read. Then its like scanned or some BS. My guess has always been that the Japanese manual is better and they just quickly made a crappy engrish version
So because of that its got a learning curve, but should be crose enough when you get used to it
Last edited by SpeedEuphoria : 05-02-2008 at 12:33 PM.
i think most if not all big turbo buys should be running an avcr or eboost if they arent running ems.
the original how to's boost by gear settings were way off. i think the original guy just made some numbers up. so i got the settings right.
i duno ill have to play w/ it.
im wondering if i should set the target boost to what i want, then adjust the duty cycle till i get it right, or if i should undershoot my target boost, and raise the boost via the duty cycle.
id think, in theory, raising the sol. duty cycle higher would spool up the turbo faster.
this could become a good thread if you//i keep updates.
not many people are fucking w/ boost by gear/mph.
i havent even checked the mph setup out yet, that might be easier depending if i can convert that apexi manual frim ebonics engrish to proper english...
i got boost by gear working. 1st gear just stays rippin, but 2nd is pure traction. not even a chirp.
3rd gear was cool. 20spike and held around there.
now its spiking 20psi droppin to 14. maybe i need to raise my duty cycle. DC's are around 60-65% at this point. i really wouldnt think id need to raise my DC that much higher in order to run 20psi at redline.
I was told the learn feature is the first thing you want to turn of on that thing! It'll screw up all your settings and give you a "happy medium" of what you want which = slow spool. What turbo are you spooling at 3800?
i got the avc-r dialed in perfectly. was thinking of doing a how-to on all the settings, since noone ever really discussed how to set everything up on here.
turn off learn gear, keep feedback at or below 5 for 3-5, keep it at 3 for 1-2.
run a static duty cycle.
i am running a s258...basically a sc61/gt35r sized turbo.
i got the avc-r dialed in perfectly. was thinking of doing a how-to on all the settings, since noone ever really discussed how to set everything up on here.
turn off learn gear, keep feedback at or below 5 for 3-5, keep it at 3 for 1-2.
run a static duty cycle.
i am running a s258...basically a sc61/gt35r sized turbo.
I think that's a great idea! How does the spool compare to MBC? I've read the AVC-R manuel and there's really no clear definition of what the functions do, just how to set them, so I think it would be a great help.
I think that's a great idea! How does the spool compare to MBC? I've read the AVC-R manuel and there's really no clear definition of what the functions do, just how to set them, so I think it would be a great help.
unfortnately i never got to compare spool between ebc and the mbc.
i removed my ceramic ball mbc when i installed my new turbo.
ill get onto writing that how to over the weekend.
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how to set vac lines up w/ AVCR for ext. WG, and other ?'s
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