Well, here's the section to give you help on your installs. We'll be updating when we can and you guys are more than welcome to contribute how-to's to this section too. Please do not post in here unless it's a how-to for FTP-Racing Products. If you do, your post will be deleted, were trying to keep it crap free so that you can look through and find the info on the install needed. If you have any questions, feel free to post a new thread or send us a messege via pm or e-mail. Thanks guys.:thumb:
I'll try and add pictures as much as possible, so if you need them be patient, or if you have them, please send them to me. Thanks.
-Garrett
Last edited by Garrett@FTP-Racing : 01-07-2008 at 09:17 PM.
-First off, make sure car is off and key is not in the ignition.
-Start by pulling the yellow 20 amp ASD fuse out of the fuse box under the hood. Set it aside.
-Then using your long flathead, push the grommet in the fire wall through into the cabin (see picture below)
-Once the grommet is out of the way, grab the wire included with the kit. Straighten it out and fold it perfectly in half. At the crease where you folded the wire, you will need to use the flat head to shove the wire through the firewall.
-Once the wire is shoved through, you can use the flathead to pull the wire through into the cabin (Make sure you DO NOT pull the wire all the way through or else you will have to go back and re-run the wires through the firewall again.)
-Cut the wire perfectly in half after it has been pulled through.
-Wire nuts are provided, but you can use butt connectors or even do it right and solder it up and put heat shrink tubing around it.
-This is the part where you need to figure out where to mount it. I leave that up to you. You can basically mount it anywhere you want, but the idea is for it to be within the drivers reach, yet out of plain site due to the fact it doubles as a kill switch. Pictures below shows how you can mount it.
The tray will pop out at the two clips circled in red.
-I kept the installation as easy as possible by using a switch with wire leads and also it being circular mounted.
Get a drill gun with a bit the same size as the outside threaded housing of the switch or use a uni-bit the widen the hole to the correct size. The blue arrow reffers to the long plastic on the back of the tray. You may need to cut it down a little if you use the location shown.
-Attach one of the wires you cut to the fuse holder with wire nuts provided. Soldering is preferred but anything usually works. While doing this, make sure you put the 20amp fuse provided in the kit into the new fuse holder. The stock fuse can be kept incase you need it.
-Then connect the other end of that fuse holder to either lead coming from the switch. (make sure switch is ran to where you need it before you wire it up)
-Then the other lead coming from the switch will connect directly to the other wire you cut in half earlier in the install.
(DO NOT LEAVE THEM OPEN WIRE OR CONNECTED WITH ONLY ELECTRICAL TAPE) Remember, if any of these wires come loose, your car may turn off on you while driving!!! Make sure everything is hooked up nicely and you can make sure nothing comes loose (i.e. wire nuts, solder, butt connectors etc. by wrapping with electrical tape.
-Once the wires are all connected in the car, go under the hood and connect the “claw” into the spot on the fuse box where the yellow ASD fuse was.
-After that’s done, it’s time to check if it’s working. Put your key in the ignition and start it up. If the car doesn’t start, there is either a loose connection, no connection, or the switch is in the off position. Check the switch first. If the car does start, the kit is hooked up correct.
-While the car is running from the previous test, flip the switch off. The car should turn off. If it doesn’t, more than likely the power is jumping terminals at the “claw” in the fuse box under the hood.
-If everything is working how it should, you’re all set. Use zip ties provided to hide away all the newly added wires. Put everything back like you pulled it out.
Resetting Computer:
-In order to reset the computer after installation, you will only need to flip the switch in the off position for 10 seconds, then flip back on. Since it doubles as a kill switch, you can leave it off while at the mall or movies or even at night. This will give you a fresh reset as much as you desire.
-At any point in time you can go back to stock in a matter of seconds. Just go under the hood and pull out the “claw” from the fuse box and replace it with the stock 20amp fuse that was in there. Hide the wires from the claw and the dealer or whom ever will never know the difference.
-Remember, be creative when your looking for a spot to mount the switch. You can use our spot shown, or anywhere else out of sight.
First things first, read the entire instructions before installing kit, unless you’ve done it before.
Tools/items Needed:
1.Cordless drill gun (really, really helps).
2.Small phillips bit for the drill gun or a small phillips screwdriver.
3.Regular phillips bit for drill gun(long preferred or use an extension)
4.Wire cutters/strippers.
5.*Needle nose pliers.
6.Electrical tape.
7.3/8 Ratchet with 13mm deep socket and extension.
8. Knife or razor blade.
9.Flathead screwdriver.
10. Some type of small box/can/bowl to put the screws and stuff your removing into.
Installation:
Start out by opening all the doors and clean out anything inside the car except for in the glove box or front door panels.
This includes anything on the floor or in the seats and especially in the center console. Once the first two steps are completed, your ready to get started.
Go to the back doors and pull out the clip in the center of the door handle.
There will be a screw there, remove it.
There is also another screw in the handle of the door itself, remove also.
Using you flathead screwdriver, pop out the clip holding the hand crank on the door.
Remove hand crank and pull door panel off.
There will be two bars that are clipped onto the door.
These are to activate the locks. Remove them from the plastic clip holding it so the door panel becomes free.
Make sure all the white fasteners on the door panel are on it when you pull it off. If they are not, pull the missing ones out of the door and put them back into the door panel.
Do to both doors.
In the kit, you will find two yellow circle stickers.
Place these over the holes in the door where the crank handle used to cover.
Try to center it as much as possible.
Cut the door panel hole to the size shown on the sticker.
Locate crank caps.
There should be a hollow piece and a cap to go over it.
Locate the metal ring clips in one of the plastic bags in the kit.
Place the hollow piece through the hole you just cut in the door panel(this piece should be used as a reference when fine cutting the hole to be near perfect.)
Then put the metal ring clip around it from the visible side to secure the hollow piece to the door panel.
Then go ahead and place the crank cap on the door panel. Do to both doors.
Once the door panels are prepped, go back to your rear doors and peel the plastic away from them from outside in. Leave the far lower inside still stuck to the door(will not need to be removed completely.)
Locate the small crank adapters to go over the window cranks.
Should say (13) on the correct size.
Locate the bigger and longer crank adapter.
Place smaller adapter on the window crank and then the bigger adapter over that.
Pull out the pulley assembly and motors from the kit.
In the bag you took out that had the metal ring clips you will find screws that you will use to mount the assemblies.
There are only enough gold screws for four brackets per door(one bracket comes pre-mounted to the assembly so you can see how they bolt up) which means there are only 8 gold screws total(1 screw per bracket). DO NOT LOOSE ANY PIECES. There are a few pieces that are extras but please be careful.
The motor end should have a bracket already mounted, use this as a guide to mount the rest. It also should have a rubber bushing with a metal center piece in it. Basically, you build your brackets and screw them to the door accordingly.
The motor end should be hidden inside the metal of the door. Make sure the brackets don’t go past where the door panel mounts to the door.
The other end of the assembly will go over the crank adapters that should already be in place.
Use the metal clips on the other side of each screw to secure them in place.
You can twist the assemblies lines over each other ONCE.
Make the red blocks on each line meet. This will give you more maneuverability when you try to install.
Once the motors are mounted and secure grab a really small but longer screw out of that same bag as before. This screw will be drilled in between the first crank adapter and the second crank adapter to hold them together. Do to both doors.
Wiring:
Grab the blue and black wires and run them through the inside of the door to the rubber grommet.
This rubber will pop out of the door but it is clipped along with plastic on the other end.
To remove this clip from the pillar:
pull back the rubber and press the three clips on the sides of it inward to release it.
Grab the small black plastic piece of the floor board on the rear doors and remove.
Then pop up the clips on the one in the front doors.
This will allow you to pop out the pillar(with the front seat belts on it) to grab the wire and pull through as low as possible.
The back seat will pop right out if pulled from the center of each seat. The carpet should easily come up now. You will want to run the wire under the carpet the shortest route to the center console. If done properly, you will not have to lengthen the wires. Do to both doors.
Switch Mounting:
Get in the drivers seat and remove the two screws in the front cup holders.
Then open the center console and remove the four bolts at the very bottom.
You can also remove the four bolts that hold the lid on the center console to allow more room to cut holes for the switches.
With all the bolts removed, pop off shift knob and pull your e-brake up as high as you can.
The center console should be able to be removed.
Once the center console is out, find the card board template and open the bag with the wiring harness and switches.
There are switch holders along with them. Find the template that matches the switch holder.
Once found, tape it to one side of the front(or wherever you wanna mount them) of the center console.
Leave room for the second switch to the side of it and also leave room from the top of the console so the lid can close with no problems later.
Once the template is in place, pop out the center of the cardboard and use a marker or a pen to mark the hole.
Use a razor blade or knife to cut the holes for the switches.
Use the switch holders to see if the holes are a good fit.
Once holes are cut, pop in the switch holders into the center console. (If you have rear switches, cut hole and insert switch holders in the rear now. They need to be at least 1.5 - 2 inches above the carpet. Yet not too close to the top or else they will hit the plastic junk holder that goes back into your center console. The switches can be mounted next to each other or at opposite sides)
Wiring for Switches:
Go back to the drivers seat and lift the steering column up.
Get the phillips screw gun under there and remover the two screws under the steering column.
Remove this piece. Once it’s removed, you will see a wiring harness leading up into the dash.
Cut open the cloth and find the big solid blue wire. This is your ACC. Use your wire strippers to pull back some plastic on the wire. (DO NOT CUT THIS WIRE )
(Note: If you have front and rear switches, the following wiring setup will be slightly different. For 4 switch wiring use the wiring diagram on page 88 of the Spal instruction manual)
Locate your wiring harness. There are two plugs for the switches to connect to. There are three wires. Red=power, Grey=light, and Brown=ground.
I like to ground the brown wire to the rear bolt off the e-brake.
Run the two other wires through to the bottom of the stereo along the other wiring harness.
Pull both wires through till they reach that main wiring harness.
Before connecting anything, you need to cut the red wire at about 1 to 2 feet from the end. *Strip each end of the wire and build the fuse that comes with the kit into that red line.
Then the red wire connects to the blue wire you stripped back earlier in the wiring harness(ACC WIRE).
The grey wire-
can either be spliced in with the red and the blue to give the switch light whenever the key is on,
or it can be spliced into the black w/yellow stripe wire in the wiring harness to light up only when the parking lights have been activated.
*Once the wiring is ran from the switch harnesses you need to run the motor wires (blue and black) into the switch harnesses.
The blue should go to the bottom left corner
black should go to the top right corner.
Make sure you match the right side wiring from the motors to the right side switch and same for the left side.
Once all the wiring is ran and there is power to the switches and a fuse inside the fuse holder you made, turn the key to the on position and press the switch to see if the windows are working properly.
If you hear a pop, you blew the fuse and have the wiring ran wrong. If wiring is wrong go back and find where the mistake is.
If wiring is right, finish up install.
Now you need to put the center console back in. Run all the wiring under the carpet and under the dash cleanly. Make sure no wires are hanging out. Put everything back together and enjoy.
This kit comes with a manual crank handle in case the motors become in-opperable. This kit is long lasting but incase the motors were to go out in 20+ years or so, Spal does carry replacement motors.
*To build the female ends onto each wire for the switch harnesses and the fuse, you must bend back and forth one of the joined female connectors. Once you have one free, place the wire you wish to put a connector onto between where the four arms on the connector are sticking out. Make sure the insulation on the wire is only stripped back about a 1/4 -1/2 an inch. Place the wire so that the bottom set of arms clamp over the insulation on the wire and the other set of arms clamps over the exposed copper wire. This should only have to be done on : red wire to the fuse and from the fuse, and the blue and black motor wires to the switches.
NOTE: If you have two switch kits(front and rear) there is a different way to wire them up. Look in the spal instruction manual for the wiring diagram for a four switch (two front, two rear)
If there are any questions, feel free to contact me and I will walk you through the part of the install that’s holding you up. Thanks.
-Garrett
Tools Needed:
-Exacto, razor knife or razor blade
-Soldering iron/gun
-very small flathead screwdriver
Materials Needed:
-Solder
-Electrical Tape
-two zip ties(the above can be used if you don't have any)
Before you start anything, get your soldering gun plugged in and let it heat up(depending on type of gun). Make sure you have an extension cord long enough to reach your vehicle.
Start off by making sure your keys are out of the ignition. Then disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the injector cover to reveal the wiring harness thats attached to the fuel rail. There is a smaller harness that runs from the large harness down to your MAP SENSOR. Your map sensor is located on your intake manifold. It should be a off white connector with a red tab. Pull out(but not completely) this red tab and press on the plastic tab on the map sensor. It should easily pull up toward the fuel rail. Now that thats disconnected, pull that connector and wiring through and over the fuel rail to gain more access to the wiring.
Pull back the tape that wraps around the map sensors wires untill the orange, green and black wires are exposed. Once that it done use an exacto or razor knife(blade) to strip away some insulation from each wire. Try and make them as close to the same height so the mapclamp will solder in easy and even.
Once the insulation on all the wires are stipped off(no more than an inch of copper should be exposed) wrap the exposed mapclamp wires around the proper colored map sensor wire. Red to Orange, Black to Black, and White to Green. There are only three wires on the clamp and three on the map sensor wiring so it's very simple.
MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT SOLDER ANY OF THE MAP SENSOR WIRES TO ANOTHER MAP SENSOR WIRE.
Once these wires are soldered on nice and strong, wrap them up with electrical tape individually at the soldering points, and then together. Wrap up any exposed wiring and ziptie(or tape) the mapclamp to the large wiring harness. Run the connector back under the fuel rail and connect back to the map sensor. Make sure you put the red pib back in as well. Put your injector cover back on, reset the computer and your done.
Adjusting Map Clamp:
As far as the direction to turn the adjustment screw on the clamp, just remember: Left=lean(more timing), Right=rich(less iming). Watch your afr's and make sure there in a safe range for your setup. Once you have it where you want it your ready to go. Enjoy.
WARNING: Attempting to install this product without the proper monitoring device such as a wideband could cause in the damge to your motor if adjusted wrong. FTP-Racing is not responsible for any damages you do to your vehicle.
Last edited by Garrett@FTP-Racing : 10-11-2007 at 12:27 AM.
Tools Needed:
8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm sockets, wratchet and extensions.
Installation:
You will recieve the kit bolted together at one end. The grounding cables are in order from shortest to longest and that is the same order they will need to be installed. After they are all installed, toss the bolt or put it in your collection but it is not part of the kit.
NOTE: It is easiest to leave all bolts, nuts, screws loose when putting new grounding cables in untill they are all ran. Then proceed to tighten them all down securely. Kit will go in easier and take less time to install.
Start by removing the first wire which should be the smallest. Link it from the battery to the strut tower bolt:
Then run the next cable from the strut tower to a stock ground located on the drivers side. The airbox must be removed(if you still have it) to get to this screw pictured below:
Now run the next cable from the same location above to the ground point on your radiator support as shown below:
From the radiator support on the drivers side, run the next cable to the passenger side radiator support with a stock ground strap ran to it as shown below(NOTE: when you tighten down all the cables at the end, make sure this one is tight across the radiator support so its not touching the hot radiator):
Now the last grounding cable is ran from passenger side radiator support to the motor mount support bracket grounding spot as shown below. Make sure you run it along the passenger side fender to keep clear from getting in the belts which can cause major damage:
Here is a picture of the completed install, make sure you route your wires neatly, clean, and safe as shown below:
Make sure you leave all the stock grounds connected to there factory locations. This kit is an add on, not a replacement kit.
Once all the new grounding cables have been installed, tighten down all the bolts, nuts, screws and discard the bolt and nut that held the ground cables in order.
Install should take no longer than 30 mins even if you have the stock airbox in the car.
Enjoy.
-Garrett
Install:
Remove Coil pack and wires using your 10mm socket/ratchet/extension(4 bolts) Unclip the harness connected to the coilpack and set the coil pack/wires aside.
Remove the 9, 10mm bolts holding the valve cover on.
Disconnect the hose connected to the pcv valve
Remove valve cover
(Be carefull not to drop anything inside the head while valve cover is off)
Remove the two 8mm bolts holding the cam sensor on.
Remove the two 10mm bolts and one 8mm bolt holding the cam cover on.
Cam cover is sealed down to the head with a special glue. Use the screw driver in one of the previous 10mm bolt holes to wiggle it loose.
Once off you will notice two holes used as oil passages and the actuall oil path on the underside of the cam cover.
The restrictor is put into the hole closer to the camshaft/driverside of the car with the machined end first.
Scrape off some of the remaining sealer used on the cam cover, and use a really small dab of RTV silicone in its place. Make sure the silicone does NOT get anywhere near the cam or the oil passages(apply extremely lightly).
Re-install everything along with the new gaskets and tube seals and start the car.
Allow the engine to fully heat up before driving it and your good to go.
Installation:
You can install this check valve anywhere in-line between the PCV valve and the throttle body spacer. If you have a catch can, it's best to put everything in theis order down the line:
Make sure the arrow on the check valve is pointing toward the spacer!
If it isn't, it will not work properly! Make sure you use hose clamps on every connection between the check valve and the spacer to keep boost leak free.
If you have any questions, feel free to drop me a PM.
-Garrett
Installation:
Start off by jacking up the driver side of the vehicle. Put a jack stand under it for safety purposes. Now with your 7/8" wrench, remove the stock o2 sensor. Then thread in the Non-fouler and snug it down. Next unclip the o2 sensor from it's harness and thread it into the non-fouler. Snug them both down and re-clip the o2 sensor back into the harness. This should take all of 5-10 mins to install.
Tools:
1. Impact gun if you have one
2. 19mm, 18mm, 15mm, 13mm, 10mm sockets/racthet/extensions
3. 21mm wrench(wratchet wrench preffered)
4. Jack/stands
5. Pliers
6. Prybar(may not be neccessary)
7. Flathead screwdriver
Items Needed:
1. Locktite(Red or blue)
2. Piece of wood
Installation:
(TRANS)
Start off with the trans mount. If you are installing FTP-Racing Adamantium mounts, you will be sorry you didn't put the trans mount in first
Start by removing the intake. Then using the 10mm, remove the teminal posts from the battery. A 13mm socket long extension/ratchet will get the single bolt behind the battery holding it to the tray. Pull the battery out. There is another 13mm bolt in the front of the battery tray, remove that as well. Now you will see 4 10mm bolts through the each corner of the battery tray. Remove all 4 bolts. Once those 3 things are out of the way, you should be able to see your existing tranny mount through the bracket. If you have a stock mount in there, you will need to remove atleast one 13mm bolt thats holding the battery tray bracket to the frame. This will be the lowest one closest to the front of the car. Remove that bolt and there is also hydraulic line thats push fastened to the frame there. Remove that as well. Once all of that is done, you are now ready to lift the car. Jack it up from both sides and place the car on jack stands. Now with the jack, place a piece of wood on top of it and snug it up under your transmission. The drivers side front wheel needs to come off, stock lug nuts are 19mm.
With the rim removed, you will see a plastic plug in the wheel well with a grounding wire clipped onto it. Use your flat head screw driver to pop that plug out and you will be staring at the 18mm bolt that goes through the tranny mount. Make sure your Jack is under the trans at this point and when the bolt comes out, slowly drop the tranny untill you see the 3, 15mm bolts that hold the trans mount to the tranny itself(will not be possible if our Adamantium mounts are installed, there that strong!!!!). Remove those 3 bolts and pull the trans mount out from the top of the car. Put in new mount and put back in all 3, 15mm bolts that held the original one in. Make sure you tighten them well and use loctite so the extra vibration doesn't rattle them loose. Jack the tranny back up untill it's aligned with the hole again. Put loctite on the long bolt and put it back in. Put everything back in the way it came out and put your wheel back on. Remember to re-torque your lug nuts when you put the car back on the ground!!!!
(UPPER)
Next, while the car is still up in the air, remove the two 18mm bolts that go through the stock upper motor mount. Once those are out, remove the two 15mm bolts that hold the bracket the front of the top mount was bolted to(it needs to be flipped around for the new mount explained in the next sentance). Bolt the new upper mount to the FLAT side of the bracket. Make sure you use the washer provided to keep the bushing safe and put loctite on the bolt before threading it back in.
Once those two are bolted together(not tight yet) put them into position on the car. Put the other 18mm bolt(w/loctite) through the end thats bolted to the frame and snug and then install the two 15mm bolts through the bracket. Once every bolt is in, tighten everything down well.
(LOWER)
Last but not least, the lower mount needs to be installed. Get under the car and remove the one 10mm screw thats holding the plastic shield to the radiator support. Move that out of the way. Next get the 21mm wrench(ratchet wrench preffered) and remove the front bolt. Then using a 15mm, remove the nut off of the back stud to the motor mount. There is a long bar that goes from there to where your strut perch is. Loosen that 15mm nut up top untill you can swing the arm out of the way(it does NOT need to be fully removed and will save you time this way) Once thats out of the way, get your 18mm ratchet wrench and remove the stud from the chassis. The mount should now come out. Once thats out, get your pliers and locate the dowel pin in the front lower mount bracket. This pin is easily removed with pliers, just grab and pull away. If left in, you will damge the new mounts.
Now put in the new lower mounts. The backside should be put in first. Make sure to use loctite on all the bolts. Put everything back how it came out and make sure it is all tight. Put the plastic cover screw back in and lower the car. Check the torque on all of your lug nuts while your at it and your ready to rock.
Installation:
Make sure car is NOT hot! Start off by removing the coilpack from the car along with any heatshield thats in the way. Remove the 10mm nut and screw holding the stock resevoir in. Remove the originall resevoir from the firewall and strip off the line and cap. Put these onto the new resevoir using a 3/8" hose clamp. Re-install the new overflow and top it off with 16oz of coolant/water(a normall size water bottle is 16oz) Snug everything up, re-install heatshield and coilpack. Reconnect the coolant line to the thermostat housing and start it up. This resevoir is slim enough, you should be able to put it in without having to remove your external wastegate or dump tube depending on your kit. In fact we didn't have to remove anything to install this bad boy on Jasons car(50trim setup) it just easily slid back there and bolted up no problems
Two 9/16" & 3/4" wrenches, sockets and ratchet.
Unibit or 3/8" & 1/2" drill bit with drill gun.
13mm wrench or adjustable wrench.
Jack and Stands.
13mm socket and ratchet.
Large Pliers/channel locks.
Black Sharpie/market or scribe tool.
Tape Measurer or ruler.
Installation:
Start off by jacking up the front end of the vehicle on each pinch seam. Make sure to use jack stands to hold the vehicle up.
Locate the cross member. It has two plates across the bottom of it with two small holes in each plate. Take your 3/8" drill bit or a unibit and drill out the holes closest to the front of the car to a 3/8" opening like shown below:
The small 3/8" bolts will go through these holes to mount one end of the traction bar.
NOTE: Every bolt will have each piece of harware on it in order of how it will go on the car. Leave it all together till you go to install it.
Once those holes are drilled, remove the endlinks. If they are stock you will need a 13mm socket/ratchet and large pliers for the top to grab it with. Remove both endlinks.
Next grab a traction bar and adjust the rod ends and jab nut all the way into the bar. Now take the small 3/8" bolt and assembly and remove the nylon nut from the end. Pull out the centering spacer and put the bolt with the washer still on it through the rod end. Once it's through, put the centering spacer onto the other side of the rod end with the bolt in the center still. Put that end through the hole you drilled out in the cross member and use the nylon nut provided to bolt it all down. Using your 9/16" wrench to hold the nut on top, tighten the bolt down from the bottome with a 9/16" socket/racthet. It should look like this:
Repeat that for the other bar.
Once the traction bars are bolted onto the cross member you are ready to install the new endlinks provided. Take a look at how everything is situated. The Rod End is going to sit inbetween the two centering spacers. The sway bar is going to be inbetween the first two bushings and the lower controll arm will be inbetween the last two bushings like this:
In order to get everything to line up and put the endlinks through properly, you will need to adjust the length of the bar. Twist it to lengthen or shorten it like this:
Do that to both sides untill you can get the endlinks through the lower control arms.
Once both ends of the traction bars are bolted up and tight twist the bars to tighten them slightly to put some pretension on each controll arm. Once your happy with the pre-tension(not too tight) use the jam nuts to lock the bars into place.
You can do this by getting the 3/4" wrench and the 13mm wrench(or ajustable wrench) and snugging the jam nuts to the bars themselves as shown in the pic below:
Your traction bars are now installed!!
CHASSIS BRACE:
Next onto the brace. Start off by taking your measurements. Locate the rectangular holes in your frame. They are just behind your front wheels on the bottom of your car. Pictured below at a 45* angle, use some type of flat edge (wrench in picture) and measure from that edge using a ruler 1.5":
Mark it with your sharpie at 1.5".
Do the same for the other side of the car.
Next mark from this edge out also 1.5":
This should give you a square area to punch you 1/2" hole at and should be approximately here:
Once both sides are marked, punch the holes with your 1/2" bit or a unibit:
Test fit the 1/2" bolt to make sure the hole is big enough.
Once both holes are punched get the chassis brace and make sure the side with the spacer is touching the chassis. Put the 1/2" bolt through the bar with the washer on the head side and put it though the new hole. Get the nylon nut and thread it on the inside of the chassis. Hold it there with a 3/4" wrench and tighten the bottom with a 3/4" socket/ratchet.
Reapeat that for both sides. Wait to tighten the brace down untill you center it in the slots.
Some of you may need to re-tighten your exhaust. If it's sagging and hitting the bar it will vibrate against it.
Should look like this when your done:
Go back through and double check everything is nice and tight.
Congratulations, you are now done! Drop the car, wash your hands and enjoy!
-Garrett
shouldnt this T-bars be tighten with the weight of the car on the suspension? like puting the car on ramps to do it or something? just like the b-woody ones, just wondering.
shouldnt this T-bars be tighten with the weight of the car on the suspension? like puting the car on ramps to do it or something? just like the b-woody ones, just wondering.
If you follow our sample for the adjustments it is not necessary.
How to Install FTP-Racing Products
ECU Reset Kit
