Ok, so I added a 180 thermostat, and changed my fan setup so everything kicks on at the right time for the 180* stat. The problem is that that computer still sees the car as not being "fully warmed up" and it running slightly richer... Is there are way to change, in the computer, normal operating temperature to 180*? I looked all over and couldn't find anything about it. Or, what else do I have to change for this?
Ok, so I added a 180 thermostat, and changed my fan setup so everything kicks on at the right time for the 180* stat. The problem is that that computer still sees the car as not being "fully warmed up" and it running slightly richer... Is there are way to change, in the computer, normal operating temperature to 180*? I looked all over and couldn't find anything about it. Or, what else do I have to change for this?
I ordered a 180 as well and it should be here today I think. So I'll be trying to figure this out as well. I remember seeing some other coolant based parameters, but I can't remember where since I'm not looking at the software right now.
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One of a kind custom turbocharged 2004 Chrysler Sebring LX Sedan
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With the 180 t-stat you should be at operating temps around town. You should only be seeing the temp around 180 when your on the freeway.
Nope, I changed when my fans kick on... It's pretty much 180-185 all the time.
What I did was just go into the tune and just subtracted 8*c from each table for the fans. On stage 2 the fans kick on sooner then on the stage 0... So I thought doing that would get me pretty damn close... And it is.
I ordered a 180 as well and it should be here today I think. So I'll be trying to figure this out as well. I remember seeing some other coolant based parameters, but I can't remember where since I'm not looking at the software right now.
Ok, so I added a 180 thermostat, and changed my fan setup so everything kicks on at the right time for the 180* stat. The problem is that that computer still sees the car as not being "fully warmed up" and it running slightly richer... ?
You talking about just WOT right??? The car should be running cosed loop within a few minutes.
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Quote: Originally Posted by Bell Intercoolers
Regardless of the [Thermal] efficiency, if too much pressure is lost, then the intercooler is either useless or can actually decrease performance...Corky Bell
Well I have my 180 in now, didn't notice any issues on the way to work this morning, but that was only a 1.5 mile drive. I need to drive it around some more before I can tell if I need to change anything beyond what I've already changed.
Well in the first fifteen minutes of operation I see my wideband in the 14.1-14.2 area at cruise instead of 14.6-14.7 like it was before the thermostat change. That is why I am asking. After the first fifteen minutes it seems "normal"... But I just wanted to ask.
I am having almost the exact opposite thing happen now that mine is in, and it doesn't make sense.
I had the 180 degree thermostat put in, had a coolant leak fixed (hose turned out to not be clamped properly) and an oil leak fixed (oil return to the oil pan wasn't tapped properly). Now I get 15.5:1 to 16:1 AFR at idle and cruise. When I park, it drops down to 12.7:1 for a couple seconds, then hovers around 13.8:1 for a few seconds, then goes back to where it should be, right around 14.7:1 for a little bit, then like 30 seconds later... back to 15.5:1 to 16:1 range.
I was thinking maybe I sprung an exhaust leak (no reason I should have though) somewhere between the turbo and my wideband sensor (which is on my down pipe right next to my stock rear O2 sensor), but my WOT is still perfect 11.5:1 to 11.7:1 range.
I think I will still check for an exhaust leak and do a free air calibration on the wideband before I go making a tune change... hmmm...
what are the advantages of the 180* t stat? does it make a difference in power, make it more reliable?... i know some people put 180* in their Lightnings, but when i had mine dyno tuned the guy told me they run better at stock operating temps?
what are the advantages of the 180* t stat? does it make a difference in power, make it more reliable?... i know some people put 180* in their Lightnings, but when i had mine dyno tuned the guy told me they run better at stock operating temps?
Keeps things cooler, helps make it a little safer. Runs better at stock temps because all the parameters in the PCM are looking for that temp. That is what we are discussing here. We can change those parameters and make it run better at 180, just trying to figure out exactly what if anything should be changed.
I'm betting it's correct, but just for arguments sake, in the fuel section, what does your additional cold start enrichment table look like?? What is your stoich f/a set at, the standard is 14.35 or there abouts.
edit:you also have the spark modifer tables for temp and map and temp and rpm. Remember, your timing can affect your f/a.
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Last edited by sour kraut : 06-05-2008 at 05:50 PM.
I'm betting it's correct, but just for arguments sake, in the fuel section, what does your additional cold start enrichment table look like?? What is your stoich f/a set at, the standard is 14.35 or there abouts.
edit:you also have the spark modifer tables for temp and map and temp and rpm. Remember, your timing can affect your f/a.
I'm going to have to look when I get home. My tune is a mix of a lot of different things. I've been meaning to go back in and play with the idle again. Originally I had to copy my stock NA idle settings into the Mexican Turbo/Stage 2 SRT-4 cal I'm using to get it to idle properly. Then after I shut off all the TIP codes and drove around for a bit, the idle has started acting up again, but only in park. When it's in gear, it's fine. In park, it sounds like a I have a cam. :\ I just haven't had time to try and make any changes since I ran at the track Saturday. Dropped the car off at the shop Monday, picked it up Tuesday, and have had the issue since I picked it up.
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How do I make 180* normal operating temperature?
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