Wow, you must of had zero traction until you hit third. Good luck and keep practicing. Until you put some slicks or drag radials on I would try not to push so hard in 1st and 2nd. Try and push the car as much as you can while still keeping traction and you should be able to post some better times.
Yeah yeah, but my first run was 15.7 @99 so I really improved, lol. On that run I was trying to stay slow in 1st and 2nd but ended up bogging my way through. Well, hit 3rd and I was spinning tires, missed 4th, got into 4th and STILL was spinning tires. Then I realized I was running 40psi in the tires.
Next time I'll be at the track is probably NATS...hope to get a little more seat time and cut another second off minimum.
Well after destroying a Vacuum T last night (disenigrated from what I guess would be heat?), it looks like most of the vacuum lines were in a similar state. Time for a whole makeover for the vacuum line setup. I blame that stuff for my slow times.
Well after destroying a Vacuum T last night (disenigrated from what I guess would be heat?), it looks like most of the vacuum lines were in a similar state. Time for a whole makeover for the vacuum line setup. I blame that stuff for my slow times.
That sucks. Get those vac lines taken care of and then get back out to tear up the track some for me since my car is stuck in the shop.
That sucks. Get those vac lines taken care of and then get back out to tear up the track some for me since my car is stuck in the shop.
Pretty sure everything is good to go now. Spent about 3 hours today rotating the wheels, then checking or changing most of the vac lines and cleaning up the engine bay a bit to make everything a bit more efficient and clean. It's still a mess, but much better than before. Nothing went wrong with what I had planned and I think I accomplished everything I want to.
Well.....went out for a spin and the previous problem was gone, but now I'm running 10AFR dropped to mid 8's by redline. I'm giving it almost no fuel too. Time to retune. It's okay though, I have 2000 miles on Wednesday to really nail it down.
Well.....went out for a spin and the previous problem was gone, but now I'm running 10AFR dropped to mid 8's by redline. I'm giving it almost no fuel too. Time to retune. It's okay though, I have 2000 miles on Wednesday to really nail it down.
engine bay looks much better now. Hope you have a safe trip bro
I agree with you completely Dodgez, and it's actually something I had figured out over time. Personally, right now I'd rather not mess with that part of the electronics system in my car. It runs, it pulls hard, and nothing is blowing up. I got WOT maybe twice a time I'm in the car, and I'm only in the car about once a week at the moment. I leave it on low boost when I'm just cruising around town (18psi). If I dragged it or took it out to the track more often I would switch it ASAP, however right now it's just not something on the top of my list of things to do. I have a LOT of suspension work and wheels/tires that I have to do first, then comes the EMS. It'd be a lot better if the ignition control part of the Emanage would just work.
Sounds like good thinking to me.
Quote: Originally Posted by CrEaTrE
Soooooo, who wants to teach me how to drag our car? It's a little different than AWD apparently, hah. Went to the strip tonight and my best times will be at the bottom. I could not for the life of me figure out how to do 1st and 2nd gear. Mind you, this is the first time I've really tried to go fast in these gears because I don't want new tires every 3 months. Once I hit 3rd I'd pull like a freight train, but then I'd get locked out of 4th and it'd take me 2 seconds to shift. I improved .5 seconds each run, and 3 mph better each run, so I was getting the hang of it, but only got 3 runs (i was there 5 hours) because of FOUR cars that broke on the track and had to get cleaned up. Drag Racing is not one of the main things on my mind, but wouldn't mind learning how to drive the SRT a little better. Stock SRT times FTL!
Well after destroying a Vacuum T last night (disenigrated from what I guess would be heat?), it looks like most of the vacuum lines were in a similar state. Time for a whole makeover for the vacuum line setup. I blame that stuff for my slow times.
The stuff from the auto parts stores don't hold up. I normally grab what I need from newer wrecked cars at the junkyard. Say you buy a bunch of vacuum caps at autostoned. You'll be lucky if they last a year before the crack and split. That is with not taking them on and off a bunch.
Quote: Originally Posted by CrEaTrE
Well.....went out for a spin and the previous problem was gone, but now I'm running 10AFR dropped to mid 8's by redline. I'm giving it almost no fuel too. Time to retune. It's okay though, I have 2000 miles on Wednesday to really nail it down.
I do offer some services at FranMan automotive. When you crack a piston or two I can do the cheap in car swap for you. I can also swap the motor if you have the money to buy a rebuilt/new one. I can also swap out that syncro in your trans if it is bad. I normally charge half what the dealer will for labor. Just let me know when happens. I think I am recalling right, didn't the last own blow the motor? They say the third time is a charm.
I do offer some services at FranMan automotive. When you crack a piston or two I can do the cheap in car swap for you. I can also swap the motor if you have the money to buy a rebuilt/new one. I can also swap out that syncro in your trans if it is bad. I normally charge half what the dealer will for labor. Just let me know when happens. I think I am recalling right, didn't the last own blow the motor? They say the third time is a charm.
What would be the time frame if I had all the parts for you to rebuild the bottom end? Will also need a price quote.
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What would be the time frame if I had all the parts for you to rebuild the bottom end? Will also need a price quote.
What do you mean by rebuild? What is the status of the car? Like is it in a million pieces, is just a cracked piston, did a rod come out the side of the block? With the cost of fuel it would prolly be cheaper to do it local. You aren't in Greenville are you?
What do you mean by rebuild? What is the status of the car? Like is it in a million pieces, is just a cracked piston, did a rod come out the side of the block? With the cost of fuel it would prolly be cheaper to do it local. You aren't in Greenville are you?
The car is fine. When I get back from my deployment I plan on building everything up. Crower Rods, JE Pistons, DCR Oil Kit etc. Just seeing if it would be easier and more convientent to let someone else do it.
The car is fine. When I get back from my deployment I plan on building everything up. Crower Rods, JE Pistons, DCR Oil Kit etc. Just seeing if it would be easier and more convientent to let someone else do it.
If that is the case I would just find a good machine shop local to assemble it. I'd guess it would be around 100-200 bucks. Some of the club meets the SE-MMC has we'll do group builds. You could bring the stuff and a bunch of guys can help put it together. I have the SRT manual on my garage computer for just such work.
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. Get those vac lines taken care of and then get back out to tear up the track some for me since my car is stuck in the shop.
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