11) SAFC II ? Next on the list of upgrades would be a SAFC II. Map clamps are nice, but if your going to do it, you may as well do it right. SAFC?s can be purchased for 200 new on ebay and sometimes a lot lower used. Add in the tach driver for 40-60 and that?s all you need. Why do I say a SAFC II now? Well at this point a SAFC II is going to help you out in a few ways. Especially for those 05 guys. Obviously you can pull out fuel to lean the car out, but in the process, properly tuning it will allow you to run more boost. And a noticeable amount at that. With my stock car with everything done up to this point (#1-12) plus a LFMIC My Zeitrinex wideband and my electronic boost gauge both show about 15.8-16.2 PSI on 4th gear pulls. My Tech Gauge MAP gauge only shows 13.6, which is the max boost the stock stage 0 ECU will allow 13.6 in 4th, 12.9 in 3rd). All with 32-35 degrees timing advance at redline (a few runs at the track showed .5-1.0 degrees timing pulled due to knock). That small 2-3psi may not seam like a lot, but when you consider the ECU is pretty much allowing that extra PSI without detuning the car anywhere else it?s actually a substantial increase. There is a really good sticky in the how to section and also in the engine management section concerning the install of a SAFC II. Points of note for the install are DEFENETLY solder and shrink wrap every connection. Also pay close attention to where you tap wires in as some need to be taped on the same wire as another wire, but the placement is important. Also it?s real important to tap the SAFCs TPS wire into the MAP voltage wire, NOT into the Cars TPS wire. This is tuning by load. This is the proper way to do it for a boosted car. Read up on the Sticky as for why. I deleted the tuning info I had because if you don?t do it right, you can fuck up your car. So why a SAFC now? You now have room to tune, so go ahead and make use of that free power, Your going to need one to progress any further, so get it now and get used to using it and start making power with it now!
11) SAFC II ? Next on the list of upgrades would be a SAFC II. Map clamps are nice, but if your going to do it, you may as well do it right. SAFC?s can be purchased for 200 new on ebay and sometimes a lot lower used. Add in the tach driver for 40-60 and that?s all you need. Why do I say a SAFC II now? Well at this point a SAFC II is going to help you out in a few ways. Especially for those 05 guys. Obviously you can pull out fuel to lean the car out, but in the process, properly tuning it will allow you to run more boost. And a noticeable amount at that. With my stock car with everything done up to this point (#1-12) plus a LFMIC My Zeitrinex wideband and my electronic boost gauge both show about 15.8-16.2 PSI on 4th gear pulls. My Tech Gauge MAP gauge only shows 13.6, which is the max boost the stock stage 0 ECU will allow 13.6 in 4th, 12.9 in 3rd). All with 32-35 degrees timing advance at redline (a few runs at the track showed .5-1.0 degrees timing pulled due to knock). That small 2-3psi may not seam like a lot, but when you consider the ECU is pretty much allowing that extra PSI without detuning the car anywhere else it?s actually a substantial increase. There is a really good sticky in the how to section and also in the engine management section concerning the install of a SAFC II. Points of note for the install are DEFENETLY solder and shrink wrap every connection. Also pay close attention to where you tap wires in as some need to be taped on the same wire as another wire, but the placement is important. Also it?s real important to tap the SAFCs TPS wire into the MAP voltage wire, NOT into the Cars TPS wire. This is tuning by load. This is the proper way to do it for a boosted car. Read up on the Sticky as for why. I deleted the tuning info I had because if you don?t do it right, you can fuck up your car. So why a SAFC now? You now have room to tune, so go ahead and make use of that free power, Your going to need one to progress any further, so get it now and get used to using it and start making power with it now!
heheh yeah I read that dude.... just wasn't sure how it applied to STOCK boost since you specified it will help out by allowing you to run higher boost. Like if it would be worth doing and would make any extra power assuming boost stayed the same. I have no intentions of trying any other aftermarket boost control... I did not like the driveability with WGA or MBC. But yeah I read your PM as well so it definately sounds like the SAFC is worth it even on stock boost, it should make a decent power and torque increase for the price (more than S1 did for less than S1 cost) w/o killing regular driveability.
So SAFC is definately on my to-do list now
EDIT: maybe I misunderstood... if I install an SAFC, but still have the stock WGA hooked up to PCM control... and I tune the SAFC, will this result in the car running a higher amount of boost? Or you would still need some WGA or whatever to raise the boost. Sounds to me like you're saying just adjusting the SAFC resulted in running more boost on stock WGA control.
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New Toy:
2007 Mazdaspeed 3 GT, red. Only mods so far: MS CAI, Cobb AccessPORT Stage 1+ MS CAI map v101, and a scraped up rear bumper, 250 whp/281 ft lbs BEFORE the AccessPORT
SRT-4 interiors are teh slow
Second toy:
2007 Civic Si coupe (wife's car), also red (Funny thing is silver is my favorite color...), also stock
11) SAFC II ? Next on the list of upgrades would be a SAFC II. Map clamps are nice, but if your going to do it, you may as well do it right. SAFC?s can be purchased for 200 new on ebay and sometimes a lot lower used. Add in the tach driver for 40-60 and that?s all you need. Why do I say a SAFC II now? Well at this point a SAFC II is going to help you out in a few ways. Especially for those 05 guys. Obviously you can pull out fuel to lean the car out, but in the process, properly tuning it will allow you to run more boost. And a noticeable amount at that. With my stock car with everything done up to this point (#1-12) plus a LFMIC My Zeitrinex wideband and my electronic boost gauge both show about 15.8-16.2 PSI on 4th gear pulls. My Tech Gauge MAP gauge only shows 13.6, which is the max boost the stock stage 0 ECU will allow 13.6 in 4th, 12.9 in 3rd). All with 32-35 degrees timing advance at redline (a few runs at the track showed .5-1.0 degrees timing pulled due to knock). That small 2-3psi may not seam like a lot, but when you consider the ECU is pretty much allowing that extra PSI without detuning the car anywhere else it?s actually a substantial increase. There is a really good sticky in the how to section and also in the engine management section concerning the install of a SAFC II. Points of note for the install are DEFENETLY solder and shrink wrap every connection. Also pay close attention to where you tap wires in as some need to be taped on the same wire as another wire, but the placement is important. Also it?s real important to tap the SAFCs TPS wire into the MAP voltage wire, NOT into the Cars TPS wire. This is tuning by load. This is the proper way to do it for a boosted car. Read up on the Sticky as for why. I deleted the tuning info I had because if you don?t do it right, you can fuck up your car. So why a SAFC now? You now have room to tune, so go ahead and make use of that free power, Your going to need one to progress any further, so get it now and get used to using it and start making power with it now!
heheh yeah I read that dude.... just wasn't sure how it applied to STOCK boost since you specified it will help out by allowing you to run higher boost. Like if it would be worth doing and would make any extra power assuming boost stayed the same. I have no intentions of trying any other aftermarket boost control... I did not like the driveability with WGA or MBC. But yeah I read your PM as well so it definately sounds like the SAFC is worth it even on stock boost, it should make a decent power and torque increase for the price (more than S1 did for less than S1 cost) w/o killing regular driveability.
So SAFC is definately on my to-do list now
EDIT: maybe I misunderstood... if I install an SAFC, but still have the stock WGA hooked up to PCM control... and I tune the SAFC, will this result in the car running a higher amount of boost? Or you would still need some WGA or whatever to raise the boost. Sounds to me like you're saying just adjusting the SAFC resulted in running more boost on stock WGA control.
So tuned SAFC results in more boost with PCM controlled, stock WGA boost control. An unexpected side benefit .
I'm guessing it will increase all the way to redline as well. I know some people say the stock WGA can only hold 11psi to redline no matter what... but *I* know it can hold a little bit more... when I have reset the PCM, for that first day I'll hold 13 psi or so to redline until it relearns... then usually by day two yeah I'm back down to 11 or 12 tops by redline.
So tuned SAFC results in more boost with PCM controlled, stock WGA boost control. An unexpected side benefit .
I'm guessing it will increase all the way to redline as well. I know some people say the stock WGA can only hold 11psi to redline no matter what... but *I* know it can hold a little bit more... when I have reset the PCM, for that first day I'll hold 13 psi or so to redline until it relearns... then usually by day two yeah I'm back down to 11 or 12 tops by redline.
the reason why you get a little more boost is cause the safc is hooked up to your map sensor. when you pull fuel with the safc it's telling the map your boosting less(which in turn puts less fuel to lean the car out). so boost goes up till it hits the ratio of what your pulling out.
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dont awaken the sleeping giant
for 02GT his antidrug
the mongoose
that's awesome... I'd never heard anyone talk about that before, like all the guys using map clamps... but I guess it's because they are probably all on aftermarket WGA's anyways so they wouldn't see any boost increase like that.
So if you are pulling fuel with SAFC... how does that affect normal cruising? I know when just driving normally it aims for 14.7 a/f. But I've seen mentioned that you can tune the SAFC to run off load... so you can set it up to where it still cruises at 14.7 and only lean out the WOT/full boost map?
My biggest concern is driveability... I don't want to have it go to shit just to gain a little power. That's why I got rid of that PTP WGA after two days... I hated how it drove. But if i understand right than with SAFC the car should still drive like stock just with more WOT power and a little better gas mileage when I'm getting on it.
EDIT: just out of curiosity... on a car like mine that is still pretty much stock, how much % of fuel would you pull out with SAFC, on average, to get to like 12:1?
that's awesome... I'd never heard anyone talk about that before, like all the guys using map clamps... but I guess it's because they are probably all on aftermarket WGA's anyways so they wouldn't see any boost increase like that.
So if you are pulling fuel with SAFC... how does that affect normal cruising? I know when just driving normally it aims for 14.7 a/f. But I've seen mentioned that you can tune the SAFC to run off load... so you can set it up to where it still cruises at 14.7 and only lean out the WOT/full boost map?
My biggest concern is driveability... I don't want to have it go to shit just to gain a little power. That's why I got rid of that PTP WGA after two days... I hated how it drove. But if i understand right than with SAFC the car should still drive like stock just with more WOT power and a little better gas mileage when I'm getting on it.
EDIT: just out of curiosity... on a car like mine that is still pretty much stock, how much % of fuel would you pull out with SAFC, on average, to get to like 12:1?
there is a high boost setting and a high boost when ever you tune in that way you will see better mpg at least i did. i was getting 30-40 more a tank
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Vehicals:
2004 srt4 black dcr 2.6
2002 HD SC F-150 black
1998 Escort ZX2 blue
1995 probe gt black
1993 probe gt red
2006 RM 85 alot of mods
2001 raptor 660
yeah I'm looking forward to that as well... I hit boost constantly while driving my SRT, and yeah I get crappy mileage except for the times that I purposely avoid boosting. So... it's pretty thirsty most of the time. I figured I'd see a notable increase in mileage after tuning it.
damn I can't wait to get this thing, get it in and get it tuned... wish I'd known before now how great a mod this was... I always thought it was only good on cars with big turbo/injectors... stuff like that.
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