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Chief track times

14K views 275 replies 28 participants last post by  Chief 
#1 ·
This is with AGPs new 6162 DBB turbo on 22psi and E85, STreet tunned by me only 22 degrees timing, and low 12 afrs

Had some issues first 2-3 passes, my 6 puck HD act was slipping BAD real bad wot shifting into 2nd. So let it cool for a good 15-20 mins (50 degree night) went back out, and all of a sudden shes grabbin now, and blowing off the tires instead. SOO im VERY confused to what happened there? The clutch has been street driven with street tires since the disc went in, brand new 6 pucka bout 4-5k miles ago and all street driving. First time clutch has seen sticky Drs on a half ass preped track. SOO think my clutch was glazed over or something? just needed some stress put on her? Cause rest of the night seem to be grabbin just fine, I thought i was gonna need to put a ED plate and a new 6 puck in. :buah: anyways, Did OK i guess, 1-2 is a joke, 12psi in mandh Drs COLD night, kinda shitty prep, This is on 22 creepin to 23 in upper rpms with agps 6162 turbo pullin nice, but again kinda concerned about the clutch wanted to get some thought on that.

12.2 @ 119

with a 2.1 60ft :rofl: YYeaaaaa I also did a 12.2 at 118 with a 2.0 60
Highest trap tonight was 120 with ugly Et and 60ft lol

This is at 4000ft, NHRA corrected at sea, should put me at 11.6 at 125
Need slicks, but whats this clutch gonna do? OR do u guys think it just needed some stress put to her tonight to get some grip. Again i had zero issues rest of night, wot shifting rest of night, no slipping as i could feel.

BTW first time at track EVERR! i was shaking like a LEAF my first pass lol

so there ya go hunter finally a TRACK run lol gonna do few more Drs and low boost runs, just to get experence and seat time, gonna need slicks 4SHO, and figure out if this clutch is gonna be alright or not. :eeeek:

srt 4 1/4 agp 6162 - YouTube
 
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#210 ·
like to see 125 and low 11s on 24.5s i think i can do it :)

Been workin on my buddys LSV EK last few days, what a MESS!

Rad fan signal wire hooked to IAT sensor, and iat sensor is MIA! Jezzus
Map sensor all fuc'd up, freezing on logs and shit. what a mess. Its nice to jump in the neon and run as nice as it does :)

ALL i would do to neon is put a nice set of coilovers on it, maybe next year tax season. If im not in afcrackinstan
 
#211 ·
like to see 125 and low 11s on 24.5s i think i can do it :)
that is my goal aswell. When it gets there I'll be content lol, no doubt it will get there. As long as your running and running good your ace's tho, the one that do nothing but hate usually don't have nothing of there own to talk about.


But I will always listen to some others wise words, becuase I do not and never will know it all.
 
#216 ·
Yep till 10.9. N btw I told u why I got 23" i got a stealing deal on a set of sub zeros that where already wrapped in 23"s so I knew I could just sell em if they where too small n that's what i doing I still have a real nice set a rotas to wrap in 24"s :)

N my track is ghettttto just 60 Et n trap on slip
 
#225 ·
I really believe you should`ve gone with 24.5 slicks. I have a stock turbo running 12.3 on pump and meth full interior and I use 24.5 slick with 10 psi because my track is also getto lol! But we use a little tire bite after the burn out and it gets a little better.
Now about alltitude. Here where I am we have an altitude of 1650 ft and the 12.3 is my record. I have a friend that has a Delta 55 and he ran 11.7. We traveled to an anual track reunion to another track where the elevation is 6561 ft and my ET went from 12.3 to 12.7 on my stock turbo. But my friend, the one with the Delta 55, he did the exact ET time 11.7 here and there. So we can say that the altitude affects the stockers only.
 
#226 ·
Thats the idea of boost controllers, if things had been equal the big turbo would have made less boost at the higher altitude but the way we run our cars the big turbo will work harder to hit that target number(through the boost controller). Now you just end up with hotter air which a quality intercooler nulifies.

So why the stock turbo drop? because you were probably knocking on the efficiency door of the stocker at the lower altitude, so once you hit the higher altitude the turbo was beyond it's efficiency limit trying to hit your target boost (if it even was). And it was probably pumping stupid hot air through the intercooler putting the intercooler out of it's efficiency limit.


make sense?
 
#227 ·
I ran the 12.36 at 22psi and I ran the 12.7 at the higher altitude at the same boost level and my intake temp was pretty much the same on both places. Besides a complete stock SRT went also, and he dropped .4 on his ET. I also think that the stocker at certain high boost levels drops its effeciency because of the hot air going through, but again, most of the fastest stockers have gone high 11`s on 28 psi peak.
 
#228 ·
BTW the whole build not using knock sensor deal, i never came back and updated that, yes using knock sensor. with not one lick of KR on 22 psi right now on corn.

Funny i talked to a local evo tuner back home, he said had a simular case on a evo, built bottom stock head, and on corn, they could not figure out why they kept getting all this kr. So guy few months lata got a built head. His stock one had over 100k miles, magically all the kr was gone. So head was causing some kr, even leaky valves, or something was going in the head that sent sound waves through the block.

SO when i did the H11 studs and brand new head from cnc, i tested kr again, and its gone now. soo head was the culprit, not sure what was causing it, did it on corn and C16. So YES i use a knock sensor.
 
#229 ·
funny you are talking about knock. last year with a brand new built bottom end, P&P'd head i was getting crazy knock. changing out heads this year, stripped bottom end for freshen up and hoping the knock goes away. wish i were on corn, but not to many places around here to purchase easily.
 
#230 ·
my brand new head did the trick, leaky valves maybe?

also guess head can get noisey with that many miles on it, cause kr maybe to go off?

BTW




cant wait for 24s :)
 
#232 ·
thanks, this is also on about 21-22* of timing on corn. Which is very low on corn, we are gonna ramp it up to 25-26 range next time on the 24s and if we hookin and havin a good night, gonna try little more boost :)

i know guys that run 21-22* on PUMP. i run about 14-15 on pump. but gonna go out and start rampin it up a tad see if i get any kr, im sure the water injection will take care of any kr i do get :)
 
#233 ·
timing advance means little....it can vary depending on A LOT of factors. Size of turbo...efficiency of motor...octane...even weather. I wouldn't put too much stock into "how high is your timing advance vs mine" because there are setups that make POWER on low timing and will actually run into knock or make no additional power with more timing. I've witnessed this first hand with my own setup.
 
#237 ·
I didn't say you couldn't...but I'm just saying that more timing isn't always going to be an answer to more power. And if your car happens to make peak safe power at 22 deg on E85 vs 30 deg doesn't really mean a damn thing nor does it mean you'll get a huge jump in power if you push to run that much timing for the sake of running it
 
#238 · (Edited)
If your car happens to make peak safe power at 22 deg on E85 vs 30 deg doesn't really mean a damn thing nor does it mean you'll get a huge jump in power if you push to run that much timing for the sake of running it
I'm not a tuner, but I do know this to be true^^. SRT4 forums is the oddest place on the planet. We get wrapped up on such crazy shit!!! On Honda - Tech, you very rarely see those guys get their panty's in a wad about Spool, or how much boost was needed to make XXX WHP. The bottom line over there is ET and TRAP SPEED!!

I think the "more timing is better" thing came from all the stock turbo guys running e85. They are boost limited, so of course they are going to look to timing to make their power. And to their credit, it works for them.
 
#239 ·
yeah, Im not a tuner either but I would think that you should be on the dyno to know where the power peaks and when additional timing doesnt net you any gains. Usually the rule of thumb is to tune for boost, then top it off/finish it with timing.
 
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