using high res code....

[vschaos]

Well my friend speedjunkie from neons.org came home from texas for a few weeks and we decided to load the high res code(version 10e). I made screenshots of my MSQ before the load....loaded the new firmware and then when box to box transferring everything over because I didnt want to load the old msq to new firmware.

Anyhow other then that I borrowed project95rebuilds stock intake manifold that had a hole on the intake manifold running by #4 injector...it was like the end of a ballpoint pen. I figured that small of a hole couldnt cause too many problems, but would just be a small vaccume leak.

Well went to start it up and it hung at 3k rpm and would not go down. We looked at the cells it was referencing and it was running 30 degrees of timing at 3k rpm!! So we bumped the timing down and got it to idle around 1120....figured it was ok to go and drive....nope It was bucking and leaning the heck out! Drove it less then a mile around the block to park it and noticed smoke from engine...ended up melting the oil return line to the equal length exhaust manifold

Sooooo waiting on my new manifold and tb that I was initially waiting for. Also ordered a NPT fitting flange for the turbo and am going to run a braided line from the turbo to the back of block for my oil return....hope that can withstand the heat. I am wondering though would this new firmware cause the bucking and horrible driving I was experiencing? I am guessing the vaccume leak was more then the megasquirt liked? I suppose I could tune around the vaccume leak, but dont really want to. The only reason I was wanting to drive it is because my daily is down as well as the srt...was having to bum my mom and dads vehicles to drive to work....they dont like that. Here are some pics of the aftermath from fire.....







Also is there anyway to modify the startup table? Sorry I dont remember off the top of my head what its exactly called, but its the one that you tune for your warm and cold startups. Mine only reads to 160 degrees.....the car goes up to 195-200 normally in traffic, etc. Generally when its sat for a little bit the car is cooled to at least 160 or below, but would like to tune it more for higher temps if I could. What is it referencing if its above 160 and 160 is the highest it goes? I am guessing the 160?

[Overcome]

Don't even bother tuning until you either get the leak fixed or better yet get a new manifold. I wouldn't underestimate the amount of issues that small hole can and will cause (the ridiculous idle being one of them). And how did the oil drain hose get so close to the manifold? Was it installed that way? That is a major boo boo that will cause a world of hurt. Aside from being a serious fire hazard, losing that hose can lead to a dead turbo and/or a dead motor due to severe oil starvation.

And the menus you're thinking of are the Warmup Wizard and After start Enrichment Settings. You'll find them under Crank/Warmup.

[boost junkie]

The cold start table only goes up to 160 because after 160 the engine really isnt cold anymore..

[vschaos]

Quote: Originally Posted by Overcome

Don't even bother tuning until you either get the leak fixed or better yet get a new manifold. I wouldn't underestimate the amount of issues that small hole can and will cause (the ridiculous idle being one of them). And how did the oil drain hose get so close to the manifold? Was it installed that way? That is a major boo boo that will cause a world of hurt. Aside from being a serious fire hazard, losing that hose can lead to a dead turbo and/or a dead motor due to severe oil starvation.

And the menus you're thinking of are the Warmup Wizard and After start Enrichment Settings. You'll find them under Crank/Warmup.

It wasnt burning for long so dont think I did anything. I checked the dipstick and looks like bran new oil still....oil level is still where it was when I checked before I drove out. My new manifold and 70mm TB was finally shipped out yesterday. So that will be installed here shortly and I know there will be no leaks to bother with on it.

I also ordered a oil flange for the turbo from AGP that has a NPT fitting. This way I can run a braided line from the turbo to the back of the block. Well most of the way at least...enough braided line to go from the turbo past the manifold and then have a small piece of hose coming off the back of the block. I will have to get a barbed fitting to connect the rubberized hose to the braided line which shouldnt be a problem.

The line could only be ran one way and thats the way I ran it. It is the oil drain hose from AGP and is a straight shot from the turbo to the back of block. So there is no room for flexing at all. Its so close because now I have an equal length exhaust manifold and the piping is all crazy back there. I am hoping with the braided line I can get some metal ties and pull it away from the exhaust tubing enough.

Quote: Originally Posted by boost junkie

The cold start table only goes up to 160 because after 160 the engine really isnt cold anymore..

Ah ok thanks

[vschaos]

I wont know fully yet how bad that vaccume leak was....meaning if it was the culprit to the bucking and car running real lean around 2k. Although I saw this thread on the extra forums and some are having the same issue.....

MSx/Extra EFI :: View topic - Latest HiRes (hr_10e)

[vschaos]

Well I posted new code in the high res sticky up top. I already contacted boostjunkie and he is a busy man so he will get to adding the NGC stuff to it. I got my new flange in today and am going to get the braided line made up tomorrow after work then come home and install. I will just use the older non-high res until this newer one can be upgraded.