so i was looking through some stuff that shawn was talking about with the setup and ASD relay. Apparently there is fuel pump control with the ASD and i did not bypass that. I have been throwing an ASD open circuit code, so i think it may be trying to kill the circuit and the fuel pump is the last thing on it so it maybe making it stumble. I'm gonna take a look further at the shop tomorrow
so i was looking through some stuff that shawn was talking about with the setup and ASD relay. Apparently there is fuel pump control with the ASD and i did not bypass that. I have been throwing an ASD open circuit code, so i think it may be trying to kill the circuit and the fuel pump is the last thing on it so it maybe making it stumble. I'm gonna take a look further at the shop tomorrow
hmm interesting indeed. I didnt wire mine up, but I if thats whats causing the issue it would be great to know.
The fact that the AEM controls both the ASD and the fuel pump made me think that it could be an issue.
Thing is though I dont have the ASD bypassed at all as far as I know. David is letting my stock pcm control things. I seem to have the hiccup around 2k rpm and not 3k rpm though.
I think its because AEM as an aftermarket company is being conservative and doesn't want people blaming blown up engines on them, or that would be my guess
p.s. all stock engine controls including fuel pump and ASD are bypassed on mine...no stumbles
I think its because AEM as an aftermarket company is being conservative and doesn't want people blaming blown up engines on them, or that would be my guess
p.s. all stock engine controls including fuel pump and ASD are bypassed on mine...no stumbles
I am guessing thats what I am going to have to do. If I cant get my friend over in texas who did the initial install to bypass everything for me....would you have the time? I of coarse would pay you.
I don't have a real SRT4...so I don't know what measures would need to be taken to fool the security/sentry key system, its easy to wire, but not knowing the SRT electronics system I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it, I've worked on SRTs before...but only on engine building and turbo upgrade kits, the sentry key system kinda freaks me out
if you look at the PCM pinout, it also shows that c3-19 and c3-28 are automatic shutdown relay OUTPUTS. This is obviously the outputs from the ASD, but if you just supply the 12v to c3-3, is that going to stabilize those outputs?
Where did this map come from? I don't recognize the tuning software.
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the more timing your run the cooler your combustion temps.. keep that in mind.. its a fine line. But remember that a part throttle theres not much energy really to damage internals.. My srt4 at part throttle on the hwy sees around 40deg of timing (60mph or so). Also my car at idle sees 6-11deg of timing.
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F&F Stage III 47lb turbo
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AGP WGA,
Snow Performance Stage II Meth/inj
11.40@125mph 26psi and no boost leak
371whp @22 psi pump gas ( With a big ass boost leak)
I have a feeling you need more timing. 1400 degree EGTs at cruise will have a tendency to warp stuff, prematurely destroy gaskets, etc.
well thats not comforting.... here is what I have currently right now.
Edit: Where should I go up in my timing? I know the stock srt map shows timing going in the high 40's, but scared to do it.......or should I just change and up the timing? The car made a huge idle difference going from 16 degrees at idle to the 35 I have it at now. I had heard as long as its between 1400-1500 it was ok...., but also heard it needs to be down near 1k.
I have a feeling you need more timing. 1400 degree EGTs at cruise will have a tendency to warp stuff, prematurely destroy gaskets, etc.
well thats not comforting.... here is what I have currently right now.
Edit: Where should I go up in my timing? I know the stock srt map shows timing going in the high 40's, but scared to do it.......or should I just change and up the timing? The car made a huge idle difference going from 16 degrees at idle to the 35 I have it at now. I had heard as long as its between 1400-1500 it was ok...., but also heard it needs to be down near 1k.
35 deg at idle, thats crazy!
yup I agree....I turned it back down because it sounded like a pissed off john deer. I have it back down to 16 degrees and it stays between 800 and a 1100. I do have it at 42 degrees at cruising speeds of 45-80 right now and at its warmest it will get to 1600 while part throttling through the gears to get up to speed.....boosting maybe 8-10psi. While cruising though its at just about 1400...maybe lil less or lil more depending. At 50 and below I am around 1200-1300.
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