Well with the ECU controlling idle, and I'm using the "stock" ignition tables with really advanced timing, it idles really well... the thing is to get it started so it can idle is the problem. Its also running REALLY rich once it starts.... 7.4:1 rich! And I've tried adjusting the VE table down... I took it down to 6% and its still running at the same rich A/F.
But just getting the damned thing started is the most difficult part.
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Quote: Originally Posted by moltenice
. . . And the PCM knows.... THE PCM KNOWS ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL
I farted once and the PCM pulled timing on me until i rolled down the window... so go figure...
well, I found out most of my hard starting was actually caused by a melted ground battery terminal!(how that happened I have no idea, but it starts a bit better now)
From the negative battery terminal, to where exactly on the chassis did this cable melt? I was going to place more grounds in and around the engine compartment. I was just wondering where you had this problem.
What is the significance of the A/F for the equation? Is it asking the highest, lowest, or average A/F I want to run or what? I don't get it, so I've generally put in 12:1 cause I know that its safe.
2K4Night,
I don't know if you ever got this straightened out, but I'm guessing not at this point. The AFR you entered into the Req_Fuel calculator is wrong, and will make it calculate a required fuel amount that is too rich unless you're using E85 or something?
The calculator wants to know the AFR ratio at stoichiometric for the fuel you are injecting. If that's gasoline, then you need to enter 14.7. To get your engine to run properly with the amount of safety you desire in your AFRs, you just tune your VE table appropriately.
By the way, I'm betting you've fouled your plugs pretty badly by now by injecting that much fuel. Put in a new set of plugs, correct your ReqFuel amount, and it will probably fire up pretty decently so you can begin to tune.
I don't know if you ever got this straightened out, but I'm guessing not at this point. The AFR you entered into the Req_Fuel calculator is wrong, and will make it calculate a required fuel amount that is too rich unless you're using E85 or something?
The calculator wants to know the AFR ratio at stoichiometric for the fuel you are injecting. If that's gasoline, then you need to enter 14.7. To get your engine to run properly with the amount of safety you desire in your AFRs, you just tune your VE table appropriately.
By the way, I'm betting you've fouled your plugs pretty badly by now by injecting that much fuel. Put in a new set of plugs, correct your ReqFuel amount, and it will probably fire up pretty decently so you can begin to tune.
Good luck!
Thad
Yep... thanks Thad. I got it figured out. I found the right manual to read a little earlier this week with all this important info. Initially I thought, if it was going to be 14.7, why isn't that a constant, and then just ask for the other variables? Then I remembered that stoichiometric is different between different fuels. MS isn't just for gasoline.
So yes... I've calculated my Req_Fuel to 5.4, works long time. :-) Warm start sucks, but that's another thread. ;-)
i dont see why your complaining about starting it when its below 50 degree's. i mean just start your damn car and let it run for 10-15 minutes. i mean shit im in fort wainwright ALASKA and my car is winterized but i dont plug the damn thing in unless its below -10 and it gets to about -50 out here at the coldest times of the season but when its about 0 degree's i just go outside and start it up and leave, sometimes not even letting it warm up and yes it will blow out white smoke... thats what happens when its really cold out but wow just start your damn thing up and stop crying
i dont see why your complaining about starting it when its below 50 degree's. i mean just start your damn car and let it run for 10-15 minutes. i mean shit im in fort wainwright ALASKA and my car is winterized but i dont plug the damn thing in unless its below -10 and it gets to about -50 out here at the coldest times of the season but when its about 0 degree's i just go outside and start it up and leave, sometimes not even letting it warm up and yes it will blow out white smoke... thats what happens when its really cold out but wow just start your damn thing up and stop crying
Wow, sounds like you've got it worked out! Please share your settings with us!
Being as it's Saturday and I'm in a good mood, I'm going to just give him the benefit of the doubt that his post was a joke. I am disappointed though, because I'm still struggling to get a clean first start at 20-30 degrees, and I thought maybe someone had it licked all the way down to -50!
I'm about to go out and try some new settings right now. Wish me luck!
Okay, it's 20 degrees out, and my first start didn't happen. Cranked and backfired once while almost catching.
I jacked up the priming pulse a little, increased the cranking pulse quite a lot (quite a lot I think, I'm not really sure what a lot is), increased my ASE percentages and taper length, and increased my warmup enrichment.
I'll let 'er sit for a while and go give it another try before it starts to warmup (to 25 or so, hah hah!).
why the hell would my post be a joke your just pissed that u cant start your car when its 20 degrees outside and my buddies with stage 3 running 11s can easily start his, now i was gunna ask him to post his input but u wanna be an ass so tough luck.
why the hell would my post be a joke your just pissed that u cant start your car when its 20 degrees outside and my buddies with stage 3 running 11s can easily start his, now i was gunna ask him to post his input but u wanna be an ass so tough luck.
dude your an idiot.....as stated on the aem section.......dodge paid over a couple million dollars in people and time to have the stock srt-4 computer built and tuned in all weather conditions..........people with tons of time under there belt and have big plaque's hanging on ther wall from big school's.......us people that have standalone's dont have a big phd on the wall......we have empty pockets and want fast cars......thats cool your buddy has a stage 3....so does mine.......now his stage 3 computer will only take him so far.....these standalones will take us to 2000 hp if we desire to build something that will hold that hp......granted we hav to start from scratch and build a multi million dollar computer software by our selves.....
so go ahead and laugh it up that your buddy has a fast car and stay out of the sections you dont belong in where the scientists are discussing real stuff and go back to your honda forum
After I posted about the little backfire/cough, and I jacked up the fueling in most of the applicable settings, I let it sit for about 45 minutes before I went out and tried it again.
This time it cranked and quickly fired and died.
From that, I figured that my priming pulse was almost good, but that my cranking pulse wasn't quite rich enough, and that my ASE settings weren't rich enough. Obviously, it didn't stay running long enough for the ASE taper length to be an issue, but also, I think that a bit more fuel from the cranking pulse would have helped to keep it running after that initial catch, as it transitioned into ASE.
So I increased the priming pulse just a little more in the appropriate temperature bins and smoothed the curve toward the higher temps. Then I increased the cranking pulse significantly in the appropriate temp bins and smoothed the curve, and bumped up the low temp ASE bins again.
After another half hour or so of sitting, I got a perfectly clean start from a coolant temp of 24 degrees. I cut it off quickly (coolant temp still at only about 26 degrees) in case I want to get another cold start on it in an hour or so before the temperature comes up too much. Still, I think I let it run long enough to make sure it was going to pull through into and through the ASE phase. Whatever, first start tomorrow morning will be very enlightening!
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What an idiot....
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