This is for those who don't mind starting from scratch and building their own. This is not for those who want to modify their Super420A. Send it to RS and they'll take care of you. I've had this setup running for the last 9 months and have been driving around with it daily for the last 4 without any problems. If you're the adventurous type, try it out. I've been seeing more and more people starting to switch over to MS2 so I hope this will be some help to you.
Here are the pin outs that'll work for Neon SRT4s.
Connecter, Pin #, Color Wire/Stripe Color (if applicable)
Cut these:
TPS = C2, 21, OR/DB
Inj1 = C2, 14, WT/DB
Inj2 = C2, 13, TN
Inj3 = C2, 12, YL/WT
Inj4 = C2, 11, LB/BR
Coil A = C2, 9, DB/TN
Coil B = C2, 10, BK/GY
Fuel pump relay = C3, 37, BR
Splice these:
Tach Input = C2, 35, GY/BK
+12v = C1, 11, DB/RD (Not to be confused with C3, 11, DB/OR which will still give you +12V RUN-START power, but will also trigger the A/C clutch! :wink: Do a search if you want to know how I know that.)
Optional for use:
O2 Upstream = C2, 31, BK/DG
O2 Downstream = C2, 33, TN/WT
IAC Motor Control = C2, 38, VT/GY
IAC Return = C2, 28, BR/VT
TPS VRef = C2, 29 ORANGE (+5v supply from stock ECU)
Knock Sensor Signal = C2, 25, DB/LG
Knock Sensor Return = C2, 24, BK/VT
I didn't use any of the optional connections. Use at your own risk.
I used the RS-Autosport harness because I started off with a Super420A. Everything wires up as it's labled except for S4 & S5. For NGC motors (and all 2.4L motors) S4 wire must be connected to Cyl 1 & 4, S5 to Cyl 2 & 3. I believe this equates to S4 to Coil B and S5 to Coil A. If you had ignition running on your MS1 Super420A unit, keep it wired the same unless you're switching from non-NGC to NGC; then you'll have to switch it.
V3.0 Board Mods
Input:
Wire up your ignition inputs as such.
Jumper TACHSELECT to XG1
Short D1
Short D2
Jumper OPTOOUT to TSEL
Jumper OPTOIN to +5v (from the proto area)
Replace R12 with a 1.3k to 2k ohm resistor (I used a 1.5k ohm resistor. That's Brown, Green, Red, Gold)
Remove C30
Output:
Coil A:
-Remove R38 and replace with an extra VB921. [edit: short R38's holes as well]
-Jumper a wire from the top of R29 to a 330 ohm resistor in the proto area. That's an orange, orange, brown, gold color coded resistor. Give yourself some space for the Coil B resistor above it.
-Jumper another wire from the bottom of the 330 ohm resistor to pin 1 (far left pin as it's mounted) of your extra VB921.
-Connect pin 2 (middle pin) of the extra VB921 to "IGN"
-Connect pin 3 (far right pin) of the extra VB921 to Gnd in the Proto Area
This places IGN on S5 wire.
Coil B:
-Jumper a wire from top of R26 to 330 ohm (Orange, Orange, Brown, Gold) resistor in the proto area.
-Connect the botton side of the 330 ohm resistor to "IGBTIN".
-Jumper "IGBTOUT" to "IAC2B"
This puts IAC2B onto S4 wire.
Misc:
I don't remember why right now... but as I'm looking at my V3 board, I have Q4, Q20 and R57 removed. I also have R37 shorted. [edit: I don't recommend removing Q4 and Q20 if you've already installed it.]
MS2-Extra MSQ settings:
Basic Setup - > Engine Constants
Calculate your own Required Fuel.
Engine displacement: is 148 CID for the SRT4 (or any 2.4L)
Injector flow: You should know this for your own injectors. Use "Fuel Flow After Pressure Change Worksheet" located
here to calculate your flow at a different pressure. I suggest that you never turn down the pressure from what the injectors were originally rated for. Increase the pressure if needed, but don't turn them down because your fuel will not atomize the way it should and it'll give you fuel tuning problems later.
Air-Fuel Ratio: Should be 14.7:1 unless you're using fuels other than Gasoline.
Control Algorithm: Speed Density
Injections Per Engine Cycle: 4 [edit: I've seen recently that EAE likes more injections. Two per cycle, alternating will work. I've used it for a while that way.]
Injector Staging: Simultaneous [edit: same thing. EAE likes more fuel]
Engine Stroke: Four-stroke
Number of cylinders: 4
Injector Port Type: Port Injection
Injectors: 4 (for most)
Engine type: Even Fire
Basic Setup -> More Engine Constants
Secondary Fuel Load: Disabled
Multiply MAP: multiply [edit: turn this on... it's better this way]
Primary Ignition Load: Speed Density
Secondary Ignition Load: Disabled
Basic Setup -> Injector Charectoristics
This is for High Impedance injectors. These are just baseline settings to get you running. Do some
research to find this info for the injectors you actually have. My High Z, RC 750s are in the parenthesis.
Bank 1
Injector Open Time (ms): 1.000 (0.74)
Battery Voltage Correction (ms/v): 0.100 (0.135)
PWM Current Limit (%): 100
PWM Time Threshold (ms): 25.4
Injector PWM Perioud (us): 66
Bank 2
Specific bank 2 setting: Off
Basic Setup -> Tach Input/Ignition settings
Spark mode(dizzy, EDIS, wheel): 36-2+2
Trigger Angle/Offset (deg): 0.00 [edit: you will probably adjust this once you check your timing with a timing light. My setup was -4.00 degrees off from MS1. I've heard of a difference of 20 degrees before between MS1 and MS2. CHECK YOUR TIMING WITH A LIGHT.]
Ignition Input Capture: Falling Edge
Spark Output: Going High (Inverted)
Number of Coils: Wasted Spark
Spark A output pin (D14): D14
Basic Setup -> More Ignition Settings
Fixed Advanced: Use Table
Use Prediction: No prediction
Cranking Dwell (ms): 5.0
Cranking Advance (degrees): 10.0 (This could probably be advanced slightly, but it works)
Dwell type: Standard Dwell
Maximum Dwell Duration (ms): 3.1
Acceleration Compensation (ms): 1
Maximum Spark Duration (ms): 2.0
Spark Hardware Latency (usec): 0
Rotary Mode: Rotary off
I'm going to leave EVERYTHING ELSE up to you (and it's a lot). But this will get you very much in the right direction. You'll need Fuel and Spark Advance tables. If you get them from someone else, you'll end up changing them anyway, so it really doesn't matter where they come from as long as they are reasonable. They're too many other variables for me to guess what you may have. With this setup my VB921s have never been too warm to touch, or very warm at all. I've taken my dwell up to 4.1 ms and my VB921s still haven't gotten hot. This has been my personal experiance. Results obviously vary. Use at your own risk. [edit: I've built four other MS2s since I've written this, and have noticed that some of the VB921s do get hot/warm with this setup. Use caution with how high you turn your dwell up to if you're still using VB921s. I would say 3.1ms is fairly safe maximum.]
MS2-E SRT4 How-to
Linear Mode
