can we buy plugs for pretty much all of our sensors and make this as "plug and play" as possible. I know we can get injector clips for bigger injectors (duh) and I know msd sells the coil pack connector. Can we get AIT and TPS connector and pretty much make a new wiring harness so we dont have to hack up our stock one?
This would be great!
As soon as we have a non-instrusive system, I'll step up and throw it on. But until I do, is there a way we can create a realistic simulator of our engine? The stimulator device is a fun way to test the circuitry, but I'm more interested in understanding the implications of something prior to testing it. I'm assuming you'd have to have a way to measure and log the inputs and outputs of another computer (not necessarily stock) as well as the outputs of the system (engine in this case). Is there something that already does this for megasquirt?
Oh and I saw SRT-4 injector clips soldered to a connector somewhere, does anyone know where I saw that?
I hope I'm not side tracking this or posting in here incorrectly but, Does anyone have links to more info regarding the Megasquirt and WI? I'm really looking to see if the Megasquirt will work well with my Aquamist system. The Aquamist system I have has two main items that are very important to me, the HSV which in effect is the electrical part of an injector (for water injection), and the DDS3 which is a WI system dianostics and WI fault monitoring device. IMO and for me with regards to WI, besides having the ability of controlling the HSV, the Megasquirt needs to also take inputs from WI components so as to take action..like switch to a map with a less agressive tune, meaning WI componet failure or to switch to a more aggresive tune because of WI component pass test(s). Sorry if I should not be posted this here...please point me to additional info if you have this.
This is strange... the service manual says our coolant sensor is a NTC sensor, yet when I went ot test for resistace... my multimeter showed 0, but as temp of the sensor changed, voltage changed. I think I'm going to have to modify the inc file, but if anyone has any suggestions, feel free to chime in
How exactly are you testing the sensor? Are you completely removing it from the engine? Also, when it shows "0" resistance, is that open or short circuit? When you say the "voltage" changes, do you mean resistance?
How exactly are you testing the sensor? Are you completely removing it from the engine? Also, when it shows "0" resistance, is that open or short circuit? When you say the "voltage" changes, do you mean resistance?
I pulled the sensor out of the block, but still have it connected to the harness so it gets its voltage supply from the ECU. When i'm using my multimeter, its on the (v) setting not the (ohms) one, so im measuring voltage and the voltages are as follows.
How exactly are you testing the sensor? Are you completely removing it from the engine? Also, when it shows "0" resistance, is that open or short circuit? When you say the "voltage" changes, do you mean resistance?
I pulled the sensor out of the block, but still have it connected to the harness so it gets its voltage supply from the ECU. When i'm using my multimeter, its on the (v) setting not the (ohms) one, so im measuring voltage and the voltages are as follows.
39F = 4.20v
95F = 3.04v
120F 2.43v
182F = 1.19v
If you are looking for the resistances over the temp range those voltages wont do you any good unless you know the size of the internal pullup/pulldown resistor in the PCM. If you can enter a voltage vs. temp scale in the MS then it will work but I dont think that is how it works... I think it wants a resistance vs. temp table.
To get this resistance vs. temp table just unhook the PCM entirely from the sensor and measure JUST resistance across the sensor at different temperatures. Temperature sensors do not need power to "operate", they simply change resistance with temperature.
How exactly are you testing the sensor? Are you completely removing it from the engine? Also, when it shows "0" resistance, is that open or short circuit? When you say the "voltage" changes, do you mean resistance?
I pulled the sensor out of the block, but still have it connected to the harness so it gets its voltage supply from the ECU. When i'm using my multimeter, its on the (v) setting not the (ohms) one, so im measuring voltage and the voltages are as follows.
39F = 4.20v
95F = 3.04v
120F 2.43v
182F = 1.19v
If you are looking for the resistances over the temp range those voltages wont do you any good unless you know the size of the internal pullup/pulldown resistor in the PCM. If you can enter a voltage vs. temp scale in the MS then it will work but I dont think that is how it works... I think it wants a resistance vs. temp table.
To get this resistance vs. temp table just unhook the PCM entirely from the sensor and measure JUST resistance across the sensor at different temperatures. Temperature sensors do not need power to "operate", they simply change resistance with temperature.
Yeah easytherm converts resistances... If you go into the MSnS code, there is a thermfactor.inc file which has all the conversions, only I need to also get the ADC values for each temp I test in order to get an accurate chart... this is just too much hassle for little oh me.. heh..
Im just gonna get the GM sensor and replace this and make my life easier!
When I finally get to workin on mine I'm definitely going to try and make this as easy as possible for those in the future, use our sensors and everything
How would I determine what size trigger wheel I should use for the MSnS-E? I know you guys are working on a way to avoid it, but I wanted to get setup with it (MS) soon using a trigger wheel and then switch over later.
Now someone said I would need a 60-2 wheel, the guy said I shouldn't use the 36 tooth wheel, what determines that?
And what diameter should I get? I have seen all kinds of sizes of 60-2 wheels.
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