IAC Help

[roadracer380]

Quote: Originally Posted by CASPERAMC

ok cars running. it had a little trouble starting from 40 degrees but i hold open the throttle and held it at about 2000 till it warmed up a bit i think thats because the lower idle setting was at 60, so i made it to -40 so it would be on all the time. iac is loud though. not sure y and i dont really like it. ay ideas?

The IAC is perfectly quite if you set the frequency to 20, but then it has no adjustability. The ms does not have enough resolution?

[CASPERAMC]

Quote: Originally Posted by roadracer380

The IAC is perfectly quite if you set the frequency to 20, but then it has on adjustability. The ms does not have enough resolution?

?? what do you mean. are you talking about the frequency that is 250?


also, no matter how much i add to the cranking dc it still will not start right, even when the car is funny warm. how high can i make it? also, i cannot get it to go to the fast idle at 1200. no matter what i change the temp settings to. the dc just goes up too 255 and does nothing. any ideas?


thanks
-mike


edit: well i decided to see what would happen if i unpluged the iac to see if it was doing anything because it should stall out, so i unplug it and i get nothing haha. so i take my test light and hook it to positive on the battery and stick the tester to the wire from the ms and i get nothing. im assuming i should get some kind of grounding from the ms. funny thing is that the car didnt stall out when i unplugged the iac. that means that i have a vacuum leak somewhere thats the perfect size to have my car idle at 800 i think. unless the iac is just stuck in the right position. looks like i need to solder some stuff on the megasqurt

[snufflux]

Casperamc, I have the exact same problems you have. Things are much more stable when you run the IAC in warmup only mode. The thing with it is that it takes exactly 3 crank and die cycles for the car to start, if I don't hold my foot on the throttle while cranking. I don't have the prefered settings for warmup only mode, but that is just because I haven't removed my TB and set the idle stop screw. We had a talk in the below link concerning the correct settings.

www.neons.org :: View topic - IAC Closed Loop working, but loud as hell

I don't know why some people can run the iac with the stock computer and some (like me) can't. On the other hand it really doesn't matter, because I just messed something up tring to upgrade to hires 10d2. It won't start at all now.

[CASPERAMC]

ok so i figured out that my iac wasnt doing anything at all and i put a testlight to the ms wire with power on the other end so i figured i would get a blinking light or something and i got nothing so i did the mods on the board for iac
i put a new transistor on Q4, i took out Q20 and D8 and i put a jumper on R39. i also put in the diode by the iac still no change with the iac. i can unplug the iac and no change in my idle. i probably have a vacuum leak somewhere so the car actually runs, but i have no iac. any ideas??

[Overcome]

I run with no IAC due to going through just about everything you guys are going through now (and pissing off the neighbors while I was at it!). Don't know if anyone remembers my posts about it, but it was all a giant headache for me. I once again tried to run with the stock pcm controlling the IAC the other day and all hell broke loose. It ended up taking me an hour just to get the car back to where I started.

[CASPERAMC]

yea i remember you talking about it. and now im running without an iac too lol to start the car i have to play with the throttle and then hold it at at least 1700 or else it will stall out. and my fucking iac wont work!!!!!! im gonna kill something lol