I'm actually using all of Boost's tables that I exported to a vex (VE, ignition, AFR). I loaded the first MSQ off his database/list, exported his tables, burned RS Auto's MSQ (029v NGC3 which is already setup for NGC), set the REQ_FUEL to 6.6, imported Boost's tables, set it to use the afr tables... I think that's it. Connected it back to the vehicle and cranked till my battery went low. Mind you I don't think the battery was not fully charged cause I haven't driven the car in like two or three months. I'm charging the battery as I type. The very first time it turned over, I only gave it a brief charge and it really didn't seem like the battery was that low. I've only taken it around the block once since I've started it, just to see if it would get out of the 7s afr once it warmed up. It didn't. I stopped the car about three blocks from my house to "tune" the afr. Took it down to 6%... didn't help. Figured I had to shut the car off to burn it to the prom... then I was down the street from my house with a warm vehicle that wouldn't start. ... What a pain this has been.
What am I missing here? To tune the VE table, I went under the tuning menu and adjusted the area where the green dot was on the 3D map. I think the changes were taking as I was doing them cause the car would shudder when I adjusted the fuel.
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Quote: Originally Posted by moltenice
. . . And the PCM knows.... THE PCM KNOWS ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL
I farted once and the PCM pulled timing on me until i rolled down the window... so go figure...
Ok, so with said configuration mentioned above and a battery charge time of about an hour and a half/two hours in 30° weather, I went to start it up.
First thing to happen was it back fired before I even heard it crank, and started right up, then died. This all happened in a matter of about 3-4 seconds. The backfire was so loud, I didn't even try it a second start up to save myself the trouble of a long talk with the cops tonight for disturbing my neighbors so late(its 8:30pm btw... and most of my neighbors wish they were still in their 40's.) I'll disturb them again tomorrow morning before I go to work. :-D
Any suggestions or modifications you all suggest I make before I start it tomorrow morning?
Closing this thread... It's working... well, starting at least
I guess I should have posted again, huh? I think it's time to close this thread... I MEAN IT THIS TIME!!! lol
Well she fired up yesterday morning and in my excitement I drove her into work because she seemed to idle well.
Bad call on my part. Got over-zealous... she had light colored smoke coming from under the hood before I got to work; but closer to work than home. At the time, I thought it was the A/C system being so cold that its frost was giving that frosty smoke you see when you open your freezer. It looked like the A/C was stuck "ON". I guess somehow/someway I wired power to the MS incorrectly and crossed it somewhere with the A/C clutch(C3 pin 11 instead of C1 pin11? I haven't torn into it to make see exactly)... cause my A/C line was frosted when I popped the hood when I got to work. So I figured; easy fix... remove the A/C clutch relay!
When I got off work, I went to start her again to drive home, and it wouldn't start. I noticed that the MS wasn't getting power. I put the A/C clutch relay back in... wala! Power and started right up. I pulled the A/C clutch relay while she was idling... it died. Then wouldn't start right back up again when I put it back in because it had warmed up slightly (and my warm up enrichments suck monkey balls).
So I drove home, and I didn't datalog the drive home (but I did log the drive to work). More smoke the 2nd time around...
When I got home, I immediately put the car in the garage and popped the hood to see what was going on. Initially I thought I blew one of the A/C lines and had A/C oil and white smoke in the general vicinity of the A/C compressor. I left the hood open and let the smoke clear before I went back into the garage to investigate further.
With better lighting in my garage at home than at work, I noticed that some of the wet spots were actually little coolant puddles. Probably because there might have been air in the coolant system from when I drained the whole system removing the stock turbo. I didn't "burp" the system. Also, my coolant overflow has been moved from it's stock location on the firewall to right above the TB/Cold side charge pipe area.
I looked briefly at the ECU connectors, and that brief look that I gave it, it seemed to be wired correctly. So.... I'll be troubleshooting this weekend.
Yep, that was the problem. That and too much coolant.
I remember at the time that I was wiring it, I was asking myself which one was C3 and C1. Then the 11th pin itself is supposed to be Blue/Red... I wired it to Blue/Orange. I remember asking myself that too.... like damn, this red looks oftly orange... lol.
But its been fixed now for a while. I've been running now for a while on the 29v extra code. I'm probably going to post it up on boost's site for everyone to use cause its a common setup.
[edit]deleted my mod list here because I've mentioned it again below. My MS1 is a Super 420A w/3 bar map.[/edit] Stock valvetrain and block. I'm even using the AGP AIT sensor instead of the GM one. Runs really nice. :-) Now I see what all the fuss was about!
I just got the car started on MSII-Extra. I'm going to be running that setup from now on. I'll keep you guys posted.
Last edited by 2K4NightRiderSRT : 01-04-2008 at 08:29 AM.
My MS1 Extra msq is now available on boost's site.
My engine mods:
3" intake
62mm TB
Slightly ported Intake at the TB
50 trim turbo
3" O2 housing
3" DP (and that's all, folks!)
38mm WG, w/atmosphere dump tube
hard pipes w/ BOV
AGP Race IC
aaron neon (style) return fuel system @ 42 psi static
1:1 is boost referenced
Walbro 255 w/ spoolboy mod (aka bottleneck fix)
750cc high Z injectors
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... What a pain this has been.
Linear Mode
