Well it does take forever to start both cold and hot. As far as in my boost section my fuel is in the 70's and timing in the 20's. Right now when I got WOT the boost is at around 22, air/fuel 11.8-12.0. So it seems as though my idle and normal driving a/f seems fine...yet now that I think about it when I let off the gas pedal between shifts or just cruising on interstate...the a/f goes from 14's like it should be down to 11-12's as if its dumping fuel. I really do need to fix my cold and warm startups though....smells like its really rich when it does finally start
Sounds like you need to turn on and use your Over Run settings. You should notice quite a bit of difference in fuel mileage after you set it up.
Just go to More Settings, and click on Over Run Settings. You will see a window that says -
Over Run Fuel Cut
Cut fuel when:
RPM greater than: (RPM)
and KPa lower than: (KPa)
and TPS lower than: (Raw ADC)
and coolant greater than: (F)
after (Sec)
Turn Over Run Fuel Cut to "On." Set "RPM greater than:" to 1500, "and KPa lower than:" to 34, "and TPS lower than:" to 41, "and coolant greater than:" can be left alone, and "after" can be set at 2 seconds. Your specific TPS value is probably different than mine so use the Clibrate TPS function (Under Tools in the top menu) to find your closed throttle ADC count. Just click on "Get Current" next to "Closed throttle ADC count" with your foot off the go pedal, remember the number and click on Cancel. Go back to the Over Run Settings window and enter the number received + 2-3. So if you got a Closed throttle ADC count of 38 you would enter 41 as your Raw ADC under "and TPS lower than:" Hope this helps.
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Well it does take forever to start both cold and hot. As far as in my boost section my fuel is in the 70's and timing in the 20's. Right now when I got WOT the boost is at around 22, air/fuel 11.8-12.0. So it seems as though my idle and normal driving a/f seems fine...yet now that I think about it when I let off the gas pedal between shifts or just cruising on interstate...the a/f goes from 14's like it should be down to 11-12's as if its dumping fuel. I really do need to fix my cold and warm startups though....smells like its really rich when it does finally start
Sounds like you need to turn on and use your Over Run settings. You should notice quite a bit of difference in fuel mileage after you set it up.
Just go to More Settings, and click on Over Run Settings. You will see a window that says -
Over Run Fuel Cut
Cut fuel when:
RPM greater than: (RPM)
and KPa lower than: (KPa)
and TPS lower than: (Raw ADC)
and coolant greater than: (F)
after (Sec)
Turn Over Run Fuel Cut to "On." Set "RPM greater than:" to 1500, "and KPa lower than:" to 34, "and TPS lower than:" to 41, "and coolant greater than:" can be left alone, and "after" can be set at 2 seconds. Your specific TPS value is probably different than mine so use the Clibrate TPS function (Under Tools in the top menu) to find your closed throttle ADC count. Just click on "Get Current" next to "Closed throttle ADC count" with your foot off the go pedal, remember the number and click on Cancel. Go back to the Over Run Settings window and enter the number received + 2-3. So if you got a Closed throttle ADC count of 38 you would enter 41 as your Raw ADC under "and TPS lower than:" Hope this helps.
awesome feedback I will do this once I get out to the car again. It rained today so I couldnt go to junkyard to get a power steering line...thus making me not want to touch car since hotside piping, exhaust, etc is off the car to get to this line. Tomorrow I am hoping to get the line I need off another 00 neon so I can put the car back together. I am on my way to install a 2.8 KB, boosta pumps, pulleys, etc on a friends cobra....then I have to tune it. For some reason I can tune with an SCT on cobras, but the MS confuses me Well get a decent driveable tune until they can get to dyno. Thanks for the help bud I will let you know results...if it fixes it I am making a video
anyone wana show me a pic of how to hook up spark lol sorry to keep asking, but i wanna get it hooked up asap, and also, anyone with a copy of the aem ems base spark map that i can have, or how to get it
got a copy of the aem ems spark map, and around idle and stuff, the spark angle is 15, but other peoples that ive seen it around 10, which is safer 10 or 15?
got a copy of the aem ems spark map, and around idle and stuff, the spark angle is 15, but other peoples that ive seen it around 10, which is safer 10 or 15?
When I get home I can take a look at what mine is....either give you a call or shoot you a pm.
I took my manafold off and turbo....sold the turbo and going with better turbo ...lol guess I should have fixed the startup issues before taking it off, but oh well
i hooked up spark. after switching the wires around, and not having it start and flipping out, i switched them again, and it worked. but, my idle is not good. the rpms go from 700-800 rpm on a even 1 second interval. also, my pulse widths are on an even interval from 3.1-3.5, its 3.1 when the rpms are going down, and 3.5 when the rpms are going up. my a/f are going from 14.1-15.2 also on an even interval being 14.1 when the pulse width is 3.1 and 15.2 when the pulse width is 3.5. ive tried different spark angles at idle from 9-15, and none of them change the condition. any help would be great, please
also, for the record, the trigger angle is 62, and is the trigger return pos A 15 or 16???
Last edited by CASPERAMC : 05-19-2007 at 01:10 PM.
i hooked up spark. after switching the wires around, and not having it start and flipping out, i switched them again, and it worked. but, my idle is not good. the rpms go from 700-800 rpm on a even 1 second interval. also, my pulse widths are on an even interval from 3.1-3.5, its 3.1 when the rpms are going down, and 3.5 when the rpms are going up. my a/f are going from 14.1-15.2 also on an even interval being 14.1 when the pulse width is 3.1 and 15.2 when the pulse width is 3.5. ive tried different spark angles at idle from 9-15, and none of them change the condition. any help would be great, please
also, for the record, the trigger angle is 62, and is the trigger return pos A 15 or 16???
Is your PCM still controlling the IAC?? I had the same problem. It seems the IAC will open and close causing the MS to add and subtract fuel which in turn makes the A/F ratio fluctuate from lean to rich. I ended up just unplugging the IAC and and setting the idle manually. Just one less thing for me to worry about.
would it be safe to just unplug it? becasue when i did that with ms just controling fuel, the car stalled out
also, is trigger return pos a 15 or 16????
That's why I had to set the idle manually with the adjustment screw. The IAC is closed when unplugged, but can easily be opened with a small amount of force. I'll probably end up sealing it with epoxy since mine went bad anyways. And go ahead and set the trigger return pos to 15.
Has anyone tried controling the IAC with the megasquirt? It should work...
I tried and it didn't go so well. No matter what I did it just didn't want to cooperate. I mean it worked, but the incredible noise was just intolerable. I played with it for hours too.
my car stalls when i pull the iac. how can i stop that?
edit: also, it revs fine up to about 6000. then it kind of breaks up, i set dwell to 4.2, and it didnt help. my spark angles there are from 32 at WOT to 35 pussyfoot. each time it breaks up. its like a pop pop, then i let go. where should my angle go, up or down, also, i have to be really careful with my 2.0 because i cant have as much timing as you srt guys. my prob was with the iac, because if i held the throttle open, i can get it to sit at about 700, and even 600 if i want it to. any advise on that?
Last edited by CASPERAMC : 05-20-2007 at 12:13 PM.
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