I'm on AEM and I have one at 2000rpm. Pretty sure the FPR causes it. Fucking with the pressure raises and lowers it in the RPM band.
I have a checkvalve inline on my pressure line to FPR (aeromotive ). It doesn't like to see vacuum at any rpm. Use an aquarium 1 way checkvalve. It totally removed my 2200 to 2500 rpm stumbles. If it works for you thank Aaron at Realtune.
Walmart sells them for less than $2.00.
did you have to cut anything? Meaning I have an 8an line going from the pump to the FPR...well a filter is in there as well, but thats it. I dunno how I could go about putting one inline without cutting and having to put an fittings on....thats if it would even work.
Not on fuel line. On AIR pressure sensor line. You cut it and put checkvalve in so it closes when air pressure goes into vacuum. The tiny pressure line that runs to throttle body or wherever you get manifold pressure from. So at low throttle driving the valve closes and the regulator doesn't see vacuum pressure.
I'm on AEM and I have one at 2000rpm. Pretty sure the FPR causes it. Fucking with the pressure raises and lowers it in the RPM band.
I have a checkvalve inline on my pressure line to FPR (aeromotive ). It doesn't like to see vacuum at any rpm. Use an aquarium 1 way checkvalve. It totally removed my 2200 to 2500 rpm stumbles. If it works for you thank Aaron at Realtune.
Walmart sells them for less than $2.00.
did you have to cut anything? Meaning I have an 8an line going from the pump to the FPR...well a filter is in there as well, but thats it. I dunno how I could go about putting one inline without cutting and having to put an fittings on....thats if it would even work.
Not on fuel line. On AIR pressure sensor line. You cut it and put checkvalve in so it closes when air pressure goes into vacuum. The tiny pressure line that runs to throttle body or wherever you get manifold pressure from. So at low throttle driving the valve closes and the regulator doesn't see vacuum pressure.
im pretty sure everyone here is running a boost sources FRP, meaning they are running off the IC piping nipple.
Thats really only an issue on factory controlled PCM's where the stock FRP isnt rising rate. Since ours is static at 58psi, that why you need the checkvalve... so it doesnt fluctuate until open loop.
I'm on AEM and I have one at 2000rpm. Pretty sure the FPR causes it. Fucking with the pressure raises and lowers it in the RPM band.
I have a checkvalve inline on my pressure line to FPR (aeromotive ). It doesn't like to see vacuum at any rpm. Use an aquarium 1 way checkvalve. It totally removed my 2200 to 2500 rpm stumbles. If it works for you thank Aaron at Realtune.
Walmart sells them for less than $2.00.
did you have to cut anything? Meaning I have an 8an line going from the pump to the FPR...well a filter is in there as well, but thats it. I dunno how I could go about putting one inline without cutting and having to put an fittings on....thats if it would even work.
Not on fuel line. On AIR pressure sensor line. You cut it and put checkvalve in so it closes when air pressure goes into vacuum. The tiny pressure line that runs to throttle body or wherever you get manifold pressure from. So at low throttle driving the valve closes and the regulator doesn't see vacuum pressure.
im pretty sure everyone here is running a boost sources FRP, meaning they are running off the IC piping nipple.
Thats really only an issue on factory controlled PCM's where the stock FRP isnt rising rate. Since ours is static at 58psi, that why you need the checkvalve... so it doesnt fluctuate until open loop.
That I really can't say one way or another. But i've always ran one since I used rising rate and after. I run static at 43 lbs or so. But just throwing ideas out for rising rate people and who knows maybe it'll help everyone. It's only a $2.00 bet. And I never have stumbles anywhere since. But Realtune tuned the car. Maybe he knows something else he isn't saying.
I'm on AEM and I have one at 2000rpm. Pretty sure the FPR causes it. Fucking with the pressure raises and lowers it in the RPM band.
I have a checkvalve inline on my pressure line to FPR (aeromotive ). It doesn't like to see vacuum at any rpm. Use an aquarium 1 way checkvalve. It totally removed my 2200 to 2500 rpm stumbles. If it works for you thank Aaron at Realtune.
Walmart sells them for less than $2.00.
did you have to cut anything? Meaning I have an 8an line going from the pump to the FPR...well a filter is in there as well, but thats it. I dunno how I could go about putting one inline without cutting and having to put an fittings on....thats if it would even work.
Not on fuel line. On AIR pressure sensor line. You cut it and put checkvalve in so it closes when air pressure goes into vacuum. The tiny pressure line that runs to throttle body or wherever you get manifold pressure from. So at low throttle driving the valve closes and the regulator doesn't see vacuum pressure.
im pretty sure everyone here is running a boost sources FRP, meaning they are running off the IC piping nipple.
Thats really only an issue on factory controlled PCM's where the stock FRP isnt rising rate. Since ours is static at 58psi, that why you need the checkvalve... so it doesnt fluctuate until open loop.
That I really can't say one way or another. But i've always ran one since I used rising rate and after. I run static at 43 lbs or so. But just throwing ideas out for rising rate people and who knows maybe it'll help everyone. It's only a $2.00 bet. And I never have stumbles anywhere since. But Realtune tuned the car. Maybe he knows something else he isn't saying.
well you are running an AEM unit, they have had the code down.. we are still doing some debugging, plus aaron's pretty good at what he does.
I'm on AEM and I have one at 2000rpm. Pretty sure the FPR causes it. Fucking with the pressure raises and lowers it in the RPM band.
I have a checkvalve inline on my pressure line to FPR (aeromotive ). It doesn't like to see vacuum at any rpm. Use an aquarium 1 way checkvalve. It totally removed my 2200 to 2500 rpm stumbles. If it works for you thank Aaron at Realtune.
Walmart sells them for less than $2.00.
did you have to cut anything? Meaning I have an 8an line going from the pump to the FPR...well a filter is in there as well, but thats it. I dunno how I could go about putting one inline without cutting and having to put an fittings on....thats if it would even work.
Not on fuel line. On AIR pressure sensor line. You cut it and put checkvalve in so it closes when air pressure goes into vacuum. The tiny pressure line that runs to throttle body or wherever you get manifold pressure from. So at low throttle driving the valve closes and the regulator doesn't see vacuum pressure.
im pretty sure everyone here is running a boost sources FRP, meaning they are running off the IC piping nipple.
Thats really only an issue on factory controlled PCM's where the stock FRP isnt rising rate. Since ours is static at 58psi, that why you need the checkvalve... so it doesnt fluctuate until open loop.
That I really can't say one way or another. But i've always ran one since I used rising rate and after. I run static at 43 lbs or so. But just throwing ideas out for rising rate people and who knows maybe it'll help everyone. It's only a $2.00 bet. And I never have stumbles anywhere since. But Realtune tuned the car. Maybe he knows something else he isn't saying.
well you are running an AEM unit, they have had the code down.. we are still doing some debugging, plus aaron's pretty good at what he does.
I was running a Dtech when stumbles began and was told to get valve. used it ever since.
I need one from high rpm too. I've been thinking of a way to re-do the triggering (if it's really needed) I just need to see the calcs at high rpm so I can make sure my math is right.
I really wish I had an NGC engine to test on. I'd like to see it miss in person. This is really difficult to troubleshoot over the internet. :P
Hello guhfluh it appears that you have not posted on our forums in several weeks, why not take a few moments to ask a question, help provide a solution or just engage in a conversation with another member in any one of our forums?
also, ive been away at school without my car, but i came home today and drove it. i had changed my ve table to be a little leaner, because i was at 13:1 around the hiccup for some reason, but anyway, now that the ve table is correct, the hiccup hits really hard at 3400. the whole car jerks, and it hit once at around 3000 hard
Last edited by CASPERAMC : 09-13-2007 at 01:43 PM.
What's weird is I can't see any sync losss. However, I didn't see it with the 5000rpm problem either. Oh well, I really need to get this tested in person. I might also have James (on of the ms/extra dev's) take a look at my code to see if he has any ideas...
Well, you saw from my dyno graphs that it's completely inconsistant. No real rhyme or reason for the hiccup. It's especially noticable in a long 4th or 5th gear pull.
I'm on AEM and I have one at 2000rpm. Pretty sure the FPR causes it. Fucking with the pressure raises and lowers it in the RPM band.
I have a checkvalve inline on my pressure line to FPR (aeromotive ). It doesn't like to see vacuum at any rpm. Use an aquarium 1 way checkvalve. It totally removed my 2200 to 2500 rpm stumbles. If it works for you thank Aaron at Realtune.
Walmart sells them for less than $2.00.
did you have to cut anything? Meaning I have an 8an line going from the pump to the FPR...well a filter is in there as well, but thats it. I dunno how I could go about putting one inline without cutting and having to put an fittings on....thats if it would even work.
no he means in the vac line not the fuel line......but if you run the vac line to any pipe after the turbo but before the tb the line will never see vac either
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sorry guys but the car is for sale....all out first gen is in the works
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