Need opinion on tune. AEM EMS

[dodgez]

Hey guys, I have finally started to *try* to figured out the AEM some. I started out with the 50 trim tune posted here and it is running okay, driveablity needs work. That may have been something I dicked up over the time by messing with it.

Car, 04
rc750's
255 pump, return line, stock FP and no vacuum line
stock long block
stock intake manifold/TB
AGP race cooler
AGP 50-trim .63 hotside
Cut out
NGK 4306's gapped at .38


Here is a copy of my cal and two logs I just took. It is 81 outside and I am running 93 pump gas.
http://boostedmopar.com/temp/cals/ch...ing_tables.zip

One run is with the timing I have been using. The other run is with 20% less timing. I am trying to figure out how read the knock gauge so I can add more safely add more timing. I'd really like to have a race gas 28psi tune also. I am not sure what is good or bad on the knock.

So far my AF's seems pretty good, The -20% timing tune was getting in the 12's but I am not sure how true that is. The AEM gauge in the car doesn't seem to run a 100% true with what the computer says. I am not sure if I have it set up or adjusted right.


Current problems:
Start up some times kicks back. The start advance was on -0.12 and I just changed it to -0.48 I'll see how it does tomorrow morning.

I also have issues where I'll be going down the road and it just cuts out. I am not sure why. I was having issues with spark blowing out at the top of 3rd so I replaced the plugs. It pulls clean in 3rd now. It seems to have helped with the random cut out but I don't have much driving time since the plug swap. It will still cut out but not it doesn't seem as bad. It will cut out when you are just cruising along in traffic.

I don't understand the o2 feedback. I have it turned on but I am not sure how well it is setup. How does it work? Does it remember what it has learned after you turn the car back on or does it have to learn everything all over again? Is there a way to see what it has learned and then apply the changes to the permanent map? I also don't know what fuel tables should adjusted for boost, idle or driveabilty. I normally just adjust the main fuel table.

A/C adjustment. My idle is pretty good until I have A/C on. It hunts pretty bad when it is on. What are the tricks to getting good idle with the A/C on.

I miss my stage 1 popping and backfiring on decel. Is there a way to get that back?

What target idle should I look for? It doesn't seem to idle good unless it is at 1000rpm, I was wondering what everyone else targets for.

I also messed with the 2 step rev limiter today. I changed the retard a 100 rpm less. It boosts up 15psi in a flash. I was wondering how safe this is for the turbo and what the safe setting should be.

[nutz]

your A/F looks pretty good, you are getting a small amount of knock

some of your problems can be atributed to the TPS setup (light throttle and tip in)
i like it to be sat at 3% closed and 90% open, it should never see 0% or 100%

all the functions of the EMS relate to one another in a way so sometimes a value on a map your not even working on can cause a problem

[dodgez]

Quote: Originally Posted by nutz

your A/F looks pretty good, you are getting a small amount of knock

some of your problems can be atributed to the TPS setup (light throttle and tip in)
i like it to be sat at 3% closed and 90% open, it should never see 0% or 100%

all the functions of the EMS relate to one another in a way so sometimes a value on a map your not even working on can cause a problem

What I found odd was the knock was worse on the pull with timing taken out. I was thinking it may have been just some rattle from the motor. How bad is it? What is the best way to set up the computer for knock control?

where do I change the TPS? "set Throttle Range" under setup? or do I adjust it under sensors?

[nutz]

I doubt its false knock on a stock block as it only shows under load (false knock is always there and i see non of that hmmmm.) the sensor is very sensitive and accurate ...better safe than sorry
(it wasnt that bad BUT it was there)

setup>sensors>tps>options

[nutz]

how do I do screen shots

[dodgez]

alt+prt screen then past it in to paint

[nutz]

OK the XY plot may be hard to see but it is set up for a .6v sensitivity notice the color change in the dots where knock is

a little easier to see (but I hate these) is the regular line graph it shows the knock spikes in green, while it is not much without setting up the graph correctly you'll miss it compleatly. the thing that concerns me is you are showing no false knock and IT SHOULD there should always be a slight fluctuation usually in the .02-.06v range and that is the threshold for false knock

to set up the parameters go to graph <setup <edit then your min and max values will show up (you dont need 25,000 rpm's )

[nutz]

Quote: Originally Posted by dodgez

alt+prt screen then past it in to paint

thanx I have been trying to figure out how to do that for about 2 years

[dodgez]

what do you suggest? how many volt is "bad"? If this was a stock computer how much degrees would the computer take out? thanks!

[nutz]

i would re-torque the knock sensor

[dodgez]

Quote: Originally Posted by nutz

thanx I have been trying to figure out how to do that for about 2 years

alt+prt sc does just the window you have in use. prt screen by itself does your whole screen. If you have Vista you can hit the windows key and type in "snipping tool" It is used for screen shotting, I am pretty sure that comes with all versions of Vista.

[nutz]

when i set up the knock sensor i set it very very sensitive (15* per volt) but i usually limit it to 5-6* that way knock is snuffed out very quick to save the motor (fuel is done the same) this is just how i set it up not everyone will like it this way



^^ thats just an example those values may not work for ya