i have a lean spot at 2500 can some one take a look, i am fried and loosing my perspective
(this is my original base map i made from dynosim5 correlation to VE and some street tuning around the block a couple times)
i will be updating my posts as my tune progress's, I am very open to any feed back but if you dont understand the basics PLEASE do not post my skin is pretty thick and i know i am no pro tuner so if you see a screw up LET ME KNOW, hopefully we can all learn something in the process
OK so i did alot of data loging with the o2 fb and have gotten it closer, the map is still safe rich (12-11's in boost with 18+ going 10's) my timing is safe (i think) no knock and i am adding a tiny bit of timing when i get the fuel map within +/- 2%
mods
91 oct.
FPR @ 43 +/- 2psi (my eyes cant see those little numbers well)boost only from the cold pipe
CNC race head +1/+2mm valves
crane 18's (straight up)
JMF SMIM
RC 750
3" full exh. (and 02) with moroso spiral muffler (very quiet)
hahn 20g (dont hate)
coolant is +/- 170... IAT is 60-80 (about 6% above ambient)
i am slowly chiseling down the base ( and adding in some places)****this process would be 100x faster on a dyno***notice the big bumps in VE ?????anyone??
special thanx tcglass1 for figuring out zip files for me
i will attach my LAST tune, log and .DRF file on this page i can only put my original and last due to storage space on the srtforums
you need to work on two things, first fix you tps calibration. go into setup>sensors>tps>options and right now you have it at 0.82.. its too high. watch your tps% in parameters and adjust it down until the tps voltage stays low but never hits 0 . it should flicker around 1%.that will help keep idle stable.
second is your idle learned value. for the most part it is a high positive number. the idle will constantly hunt like that. i noticed you keep your idle around 975 at operating temp but on the log its consistently around 1100. you wont be able to go lower than that because of the idle learned value.tps calibration will also affect it too.
where do you have your wb02 mounted? you should have it in the upstream port so there is no delay in 02 reading. also whats your email? ill email you a template to use for aem for logging
theres a bunch of stuff that needs to be tweaked but lets start with the obvious
__________________
email for price quotes/questions!!!
Email: Jay@N2MB.com
5/24/09 9.30@154
went to the dyno for a couple baseline pulls w/ cali piss gas
looks like boost is at 20 and fell to about 16 +/- @ redline and A/f is a little rich for me i need to hook up the boost controller, i figure there is plenty left in her though (-0- knock)i was upping the timing a bit on every pull (about 1* +/-)
well guys i had a bad boost controller day, i was just to frustrated to do anything about it 100+* in the shop 6hrs on the dyno for 30 minutes of work
91 octane cali piss (no boosters,meth,n2o..nothing)sae 5 smooth and 0 load
the boost was jumping from 22-16. the whole day was a complete bust at 1 point we looked down to see intake temps of 130* and coolant temps of 230*and decided to call it a day
next week will be better (it cant get worse)
notes:
i think my vac. routing was the cause for the runaway boost controller (FPR and EBC all routed from turbo signal) now the fpr is off the cold pipe, also i can no longer hold fuel pressure as soon as the car is shut off it drops to 30 and slowly drops to -0- within 10 min (it used to hold for hours) i need to do a bottle neck fix (save the outstanding FPR RL product i bought from a vendor..good work on another useless money wasting product)and the heat was CRAZY today and was screwing me up with all the modifiers (had to -0- them out and prey) i am very confident that 410+ is doable on pump gas (a smooth, even tune though ) today no logs recorded any real knock (look at my tables for the threshold its very low)the drivability is twice as good now also
i dont think the log file is from this pull but some stuff got mixed around today
CHeck for a leak on the bottom of the gate. Thats what was causing my problem. Jay can correct me if I'm wrong, but You should probably switch your FPR boost reference to a vacume source. I'm mixed on what source to use for boost reference but prefer a vacume source because that's your true boost level. If you hook it to your turbo your going to see the turbo's boost level not the engine's, which is likely to be lower due to pressure drops across the intercooler, ect...
CHeck for a leak on the bottom of the gate. Thats what was causing my problem. Jay can correct me if I'm wrong, but You should probably switch your FPR boost reference to a vacume source. I'm mixed on what source to use for boost reference but prefer a vacume source because that's your true boost level. If you hook it to your turbo your going to see the turbo's boost level not the engine's, which is likely to be lower due to pressure drops across the intercooler, ect...
we thought the car was gonna jump off the dyno on that run
I'm gonna switch that vacuum source stuff up and try to switch to EMS controlled boost, i was only using a separate boost controller to keep the tuning simple , ohh well, we got to load 40-50-60-70 mph in 4th so it drives much smoother (my map still looks like it has a set of tits)hopefully we can finish up the load tuning and work on the timing tables for some good peak TQ (i know there are a few degrees power left in her)
thanx ToTs
let me know if you ever roll down south (san diego way)
on an ems car it really doesnt matter if you go vac or vac/pressure for the fpr. you have control of the fuel table.on a non ems car i prefer boost only. if you use vac /boost when you throttle tip in the fuel pressure rises making driveability crappy
as far as the boost goes...whats the problem? its fluctuating?what are you using for boost control?
on an ems car it really doesnt matter if you go vac or vac/pressure for the fpr. you have control of the fuel table.on a non ems car i prefer boost only. if you use vac /boost when you throttle tip in the fuel pressure rises making driveability crappy
as far as the boost goes...whats the problem? its fluctuating?what are you using for boost control?
i was using an AEM TRUBOOST for now (just for simplicity) i am pretty sure the problem was due to my spring being to heavy on the WGA and I could only use 10%, that was making my boost hit past the gate crack> i also had the fpr and boost controler hooked up top the same source (off the turbo) so i moved the FPR source to the "cold pipe" (i guess i might see a pressure drop in FP)
i am pretty sure if it wasnt over 100* outside i woulda been able to chase it down better but it was just to danmm hot in the shop to do anything
QUESTION: so we are doing pulls at 50-60-70 mph to do load lines (and then we just guesstamate inbetween) is there a way to find the perfect speed to get a load line"y" line to hold perfect (or should i change the rpm) AND i have two large "bumps" in the map...should i move a few "Y" (rpm) lines closer together to try to smooth em out or am i just going too far i am just trying to hit the "bulls eye" (load/rpm)when i make changes
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lean out at 2500 +/- rpm help
i need to hook up the boost controller, i figure there is plenty left in her though (-0- knock
)i was upping the timing a bit on every pull (about 1* +/-)
at 1 point we looked down to see intake temps of 130* and coolant temps of 230*and decided to call it a day 
)and the heat was CRAZY today and was screwing me up with all the modifiers (had to -0- them out and prey) i am very confident that 410+ is doable on pump gas (a smooth, even tune though 
(look at my tables for the threshold its very low)the drivability is twice as good now also
Linear Mode
