This is a thread for EMS related functions and install how 2s. If you have any questions about these functions please post in a different thread. I want to keep this free of any clutter. I will try and keep this updated as much as possible.
Any questions here will be deleted from their spot and placed in the correct how 2. Please dont take offense to that, I just dont want this thread filled to the brim
3]Open the harness of the Orange PCM. Locate the Black wire with dark green stripe. C2-31 is the location if you need it.
4]What I did was cut the black/green wire in half. Connect the PCM side of the wire to the white wire coming from you AEM gauge. Soder and retape the harness[plug back into PCM]
5]Go to Setup/Sensors/O2#1/02 wizard... select AEM Gauge
6]Then check out the volts that the EMS is seeing and make sure they match up to your AEM gauge. You can adjust the gain by Selecting Setup/Sensors/O2#1/options. You can check the volts by selecting Setup/Sensors/O2#1/parameters.
Dont forget to change the cal table from METH to Gasoline a/f. Do this by going to Configure/Units/A-F units/ Af gasoline
2Step Input - Switch is Always ON (you can have this switched or turned on at vehicle speed. Its up to you and your needs) 2Step Fuel Cut - 4600 rpm (thats the sweet spot for me right now with slicks) 2Step Ignition Cut - 4600 rpm 2Step OK Below VSS - 6 MPH (turns the 2Step off after 6 mph)
I have mine set to level 1 which gives me about 6 psi when stagging. You can set it higher for more boost. Again, thats a good spot for me right now without spinning the slicks too much.
The way its set up is I mat the gas when stagging, it will be bouncing off 4600 rpm and building about 6 psi. I then drop the clutch and go. The 2Step will automatically shut down after 6 MPH.
AEM recommends that you place the sensor no closer than 18 inches from the exhaust port. If you do want to run a lot of race gas you will want to place the sensor at least 36 inches from the port. The same distance is also recommended for very high EGT's as the sensor can burn out close to the turbo with high temps.
I hope this helps.
Chris Macellaro
Questions: I guess concerning the wideband placement. Mine is about 6inches or so from the turbo. On a premade bung that i think is for an egt sensor. Is that bad?
Answer: Not the worst thing in the world. As long as the sensor is not subjected to sustained extremely high EGT's it should be ok. Leaded gas is always a concern but most average people do not use it enough to warrant attention to this.
Chris Macellaro
Last edited by aaronneon@RealTune : 07-10-2006 at 09:44 AM.
When using aftermarket injectors or pressure sensors follow these specific steps BEFORE attempting to start the vehicle. This will greatly reduce tuning time, and starting problems.
1. Upload the base calibration that is most closely suited for the modifications that you have to your vehicle. These calibrations are located in the AEMPro folder under Startup Calibrations, then by vehicle manufacturer, then part# of the ems with a brief description of any specific modifications from stock.
2. If you have aftermarket injectors, perform the following changes to the calibration
a. Select the injectors from the Injectors wizard under Setup/Injectors from the main menu (See figure A). This will set the proper battery offset for the chosen injectors, but will NOT change the fuel calculations.
b. Open the Fuel map, this can be accomplished by clicking on the Injector button, the Home button, or by pressing ‘ctrl+f’. Once the fuel map is open, press ‘m’ for modify, then select “change injectors/pressure at the bottom of the pop up list. A new window will open asking you to enter the old injector size, and old pressure. Enter the old injector size, and if you are unsure of the pressure, enter 43psi. Then proceed to enter the new injector size, and the new pressure. If the pressure is unchanged, enter 43psi again. This will perform all the fuel changes to accommodate the new injectors. Note: some adjustments will still need to be made.
3. If you have an aftermarket Pressure sensor, run the setup wizard for the pressure sensor under the main menu Setup/sensors/Manifold pressure the click on the ‘W’. This will bring up a new window with a selection of pressure sensors to choose from. Make sure you select the proper sensor, otherwise the engine will NOT run properly. After selecting the sensor from the list, it is IMPERATIVE that you arrange the ignition and fuel tables so the values are returned to the proper pressure ranges. For example: The stock pressure sensor range was –13psi to 11psi and the values for fuel and timing were appropriate in that range. When you change to a 5bar pressure sensor the values that were at 11psi are now at 60psi (Not Good), and the values at –13psi are now at –14.7psi (also not good). The good news is the AEMPro software is designed to rescale the values when pasted in. So after you select your pressure sensor
a. Changing the fuel table
so has anyone made a formal this voltage is too much number for knock? when i spike 18psi at about 3k rpm my datalogging noted .125V throughout the rest of my driving i only saw 1 other spike at less than .07. question is, is this dangerous level or just a bit of noise. i tweaked timing to compensate, but was just wondering
Tex,
Give yourself the most retarded tune that your car will still idle and run on. You will need to datalog ( internally ) knock #1, knock #1 raw, and knock #1 retard do a few runs stopping to save. Then chart them out you are looking for *any* Knock #1 raw voltage as rpms increase to base the knock noise threshold on your Ksensor cal table. Chart these voltages +2% as you see them. Go do a run or 6 with the same retarded tune as before. You should now notice NO knock#1 voltage and Knock #1 raw should chart to what you have in your Ksensor cal table. If you get any knock #1 voltage go back and add voltage ( very small increments ) to your cal table in the appropriate rpm range till knock #1 goes back to near flat.
Knock #1 is as far as I can figure: Knock #1 Raw minus cal table lookup(rpm vs volts)
That is to say Knock #1 voltage is the delta of knock #1 raw - cal table lookup.
SO with all that said ANY Knock #1 voltage (which is voltage above the noise threshold) is bad.
We are looking to tune so you never see a knock retard event or Knock #1 voltage. IMHO
Now re-install your original unretarded running tune.
More runs. Check to make sure you are not getting Knock #1 retard or Knock #1 voltage. Change timing ign map appropriately if you get any.
I'm a bit conservative so I would add ign tune until Knock #1 +∆ volts then back it back down by several + a couple degrees. lol ( turns out I dont like melty holey things in my engine... )
Now adjust your fuel control and your ignition control to be extremely agressive as our Dodge sensors dont put out alot of voltage even if your engine sounds like timpany.
Note: there seems to be no zero delta voltage for Knock #1 so you will likely see 0.00 volts to 0.02 volts as the lowest voltage for Knock #1. This seems to be OK.
So the end answer is any voltage above noise is knock, period.
More experienced tuners, please chime in if you see anything I have missed or explained improperly
Hope this helps!
-David
Disclaimer: by 'retarded' I mean 'advance challenged' .. yah yah .. thats it .. yah
how to install the aem boost control solenoid (aem p/n 302400) ?
I had already told ya how too. You just have bad memory.
There are two wire connections for a boost solenoid and there is no polarity. One wire connects to 12 volt switched power and the other will connect to the PW #2 output on the EMS.
thats easy, wire up a relay and have the relay ground controlled by the ems.for example you can wire it up like this
ground the pump to chassis ground.run the b+ out of the relay to the pump.on the coil side of the relay run your 12v in and run the ground to low side driver #ls3 in the ems (just as an example)
next you go into the ems and click options>configure outputs
on the drop down menu selct ls5 and check basic activation.
if you want the w/i to come on at say 12 psi you want the basic activation to look something like this
coolant temp/at least 160*
load/at least 12 psi
rpm at least 3000
tps at least 80%
road speed at least 20 mph
that will make it work but i would suggest putting a switch on it as well for activation.to do that you click switched ouput configuration and setup the switch parameters for however you wire it up
EDIT: WHEN YOU USE AEM LOW AND HIGH SIDE DRIVERS DO NOT USE LS OR HS 1-4. USE 5-8 EITHER HIGH OR LOW.THE REASON WHY IS WHEN YOU KEY ON THOSE DRIVERS WILL PULSE FOR A SECOND. YOU DO NOT WANT YOUR NITROUS OR METH SPRAYING WHEN YOU KEY IT ON!!
nitrous you can do it a bunch of different ways.one being like i explained about the w/i or you can just simply use the nitrous map.its probably easier to just wire it up like i mentioned unless you are running a dry shot and need to use the fuel section but you will have more safeties and window switches by using the nitrous map.either way you can get it done
thats easy, wire up a relay and have the relay ground controlled by the ems.for example you can wire it up like this
ground the pump to chassis ground.run the b+ out of the relay to the pump.on the coil side of the relay run your 12v in and run the ground to low side driver #ls3 in the ems (just as an example)
next you go into the ems and click options>configure outputs
on the drop down menu selct ls3 and check basic activation.
if you want the w/i to come on at say 12 psi you want the basic activation to look something like this
coolant temp/at least 160*
load/at least 12 psi
rpm at least 3000
tps at least 80%
road speed at least 20 mph
that will make it work but i would suggest putting a switch on it as well for activation.to do that you click switched ouput configuration and setup the switch parameters for however you wire it up
Can you ramp the injection like seperate components such as devils own. I have a progressive controller but I'd rather just use the AEM for my W/I and nitrous.
How to: ENABLE CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH(no more clutchless starts)
I'm sure many of you have noticed that you are able to start your car w/out depressing the clutch, and have wondered how to enable this feature. I know I was wondering, particularly for the aspect of being able to pass safety tech at the strip.
So here is what you do. Go to the Options menu, and then go to Configure Outputs. Next to where it says "outputs", there is a drop down dialog box. In that box, select LS12 (this stands for Low Side Driver # 12). After selecting LS12, look below to where it says "switched output configure", and select the Active box. Next, in that section, go to the drop down dialog box next to where it says "switch input", and select Switch # 3 Gnd=On. Now save your changes, and you are set to go...Simple as that. No more start without clutch disengaged.
__________________
2004 Solar Yellow SRT-4 - AEM EMS - AMS37R Turbo Kit - Custom fuel system - JMCylinderhead/Crower S2 cams - Stock bottom end...for now, anyway!
609 WHP, 518 WTQ @ 28 PSI!
Best E.T. to date: 11.24
Best MPH to date: 129.77 MPH
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How 2: Different AEM EMS functions
Linear Mode
