Could this be a delay in the time to get a coolant tempature sensor to warm up and give a valid reading? ie. Car is running at full temp and then turned off long anuff for the sensor to cool down, but not long anuff to have the engine fully cool down. Then when it's restarted again the engine is already warm, but the ems thinks its cold starting because the temp sensor isn't warmed up and gives a rich mixture as if it was dealing with a cold engine.
I've noticed that I don't have this problem if the engine is only off a short time (couple of minutes). But when it's off longer like for a fill up (more than a couple of minutes, but less than 15-20 minutes) I have the running rich problem.
I have seen this as well. Also, if you remove the gas cap while idling, the car wants to stall? Go through the instructions/pinouts and disable all of the evaporative emissions related outputs, and... if I remember correctly, I had to cap one of the hoses going back to the tank. I'll have to go look at the last one I did...
This may sound crazy but I would sometimes put gas in my car while it was still running but as soon as I opened the gas cap it would sound like the fuel system/ charcoal canister de-pressurized. The car would then idle very rough and sometimes stall out on its own. What Tony@ UMS Tuning and I did to fix it was run the vacuum line from the stock check valve to the nipple on my CAI. Then ran a line straight off my BOV to the nipple on the intake manifold. Car runs better and even seems to be getting better gas mileage now but I could just be imagining it. Atleast now I can gas up while the car is still running (not that that is completely neccesary) LOL.
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This may sound crazy but I would sometimes put gas in my car while it was still running but as soon as I opened the gas cap it would sound like the fuel system/ charcoal canister de-pressurized. The car would then idle very rough and sometimes stall out on its own. What Tony@ UMS Tuning and I did to fix it was run the vacuum line from the stock check valve to the nipple on my CAI. Then ran a line straight off my BOV to the nipple on the intake manifold. Car runs better and even seems to be getting better gas mileage now but I could just be imagining it. Atleast now I can gas up while the car is still running (not that that is completely neccesary) LOL.
Are you basically telling me to take both air outlets/inlets from the valve cover and route them to the intake? I have an AEM intake where the outlet on the right of the valve cover, as you face the engine, goes into the intake pipe.
Do you cap the big 3/8th nipple that the check valve was routed to?
not from the valve cover, from the tank, there is a line with a green/black 3 way check valve between the battery and the motor. Remove it and just let the ling going back to the tank vent to atmosphere.
This may sound crazy but I would sometimes put gas in my car while it was still running but as soon as I opened the gas cap it would sound like the fuel system/ charcoal canister de-pressurized. The car would then idle very rough and sometimes stall out on its own. What Tony@ UMS Tuning and I did to fix it was run the vacuum line from the stock check valve to the nipple on my CAI. Then ran a line straight off my BOV to the nipple on the intake manifold. Car runs better and even seems to be getting better gas mileage now but I could just be imagining it. Atleast now I can gas up while the car is still running (not that that is completely neccesary) LOL.
i agree^^^ its most likely the delay with the leak pump. To cut emissions from the evaporating fuel, the tank is sometimes held at a pressure higher than ambient.
The pressure diff in between the tank and ambient changes the intank fuel pressure regulator set piont, resulting in a higher fuel pressure at the rail by up to 4 psi. If your fuel cap is buggered up the pressure difference could be more.
The issue should only last a few miniutes depending on how full or empty the tank is. The service manual has all the boring details
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This may sound crazy but I would sometimes put gas in my car while it was still running but as soon as I opened the gas cap it would sound like the fuel system/ charcoal canister de-pressurized. The car would then idle very rough and sometimes stall out on its own. What Tony@ UMS Tuning and I did to fix it was run the vacuum line from the stock check valve to the nipple on my CAI. Then ran a line straight off my BOV to the nipple on the intake manifold. Car runs better and even seems to be getting better gas mileage now but I could just be imagining it. Atleast now I can gas up while the car is still running (not that that is completely neccesary) LOL.
i agree^^^ its most likely the delay with the leak pump. To cut emissions from the evaporating fuel, the tank is sometimes held at a pressure higher than ambient.
The pressure diff in between the tank and ambient changes the intank fuel pressure regulator set piont, resulting in a higher fuel pressure at the rail by up to 4 psi. If your fuel cap is buggered up the pressure difference could be more.
The issue should only last a few miniutes depending on how full or empty the tank is. The service manual has all the boring details
my car would startup horrible after getting gas. i plumbed the line from the check valve to my intake and it fixed that problem. additionally i had to reconfigure my idle settings.... i wonder if the way the ems comes stock it is leaving some evap solenoid open and its flowing into the TB at all times. Because removing that emisions line acted like fixing a manifold leak almost.
not from the valve cover, from the tank, there is a line with a green/black 3 way check valve between the battery and the motor. Remove it and just let the ling going back to the tank vent to atmosphere.
This may sound crazy but I would sometimes put gas in my car while it was still running but as soon as I opened the gas cap it would sound like the fuel system/ charcoal canister de-pressurized. The car would then idle very rough and sometimes stall out on its own. What Tony@ UMS Tuning and I did to fix it was run the vacuum line from the stock check valve to the nipple on my CAI. Then ran a line straight off my BOV to the nipple on the intake manifold. Car runs better and even seems to be getting better gas mileage now but I could just be imagining it. Atleast now I can gas up while the car is still running (not that that is completely neccesary) LOL.
i agree^^^ its most likely the delay with the leak pump. To cut emissions from the evaporating fuel, the tank is sometimes held at a pressure higher than ambient.
The pressure diff in between the tank and ambient changes the intank fuel pressure regulator set piont, resulting in a higher fuel pressure at the rail by up to 4 psi. If your fuel cap is buggered up the pressure difference could be more.
The issue should only last a few miniutes depending on how full or empty the tank is. The service manual has all the boring details
my car would startup horrible after getting gas. i plumbed the line from the check valve to my intake and it fixed that problem. additionally i had to reconfigure my idle settings.... i wonder if the way the ems comes stock it is leaving some evap solenoid open and its flowing into the TB at all times. Because removing that emisions line acted like fixing a manifold leak almost.
i noticed my idle is a lil dif as well, for example if i blip the throttle the car wants to die now.. any idea what i should adjust?
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