Hey guy need a little help. What are the fuel pump settings suppose to be? I have a ll my stuff setup, but whenever I put the car on the ON position the fuel pump relay clicks on and off rapidly. I checked the voltages on the relay contacts in the fuse box and 3 of them have 12volt on them. I do know for a fact the only 2 of them should voltage. The wrong contact if the one from the EMS that I believe should only ground the coil and not give it voltage. I'm new to the EMS but I do know how to troubleshoot. I don't want to make any change until I at least get some advice from some of the experienced EMS tuners on here. Any help is greatly appreciated, Thanks
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DCR: 2.6 over 40 stroker, Pro series Head w/ Crane 18Input Shaft, Intake manifold w/ Tial BOV
AGP: GT3582R turbo kit
Mopar: Sway Bars, S3 CO, Ti strut Bars, Plug Wires
Rage-Tek: LCA, TOB, Dual Fuel Pumps, 1000cc Inj
Autometer: WB, Boost, Oil PSI, Oil Temp, EGT, FP
ClutchMaster: Twin Disk
AEM: EMS w/ 3.5 BAR sensor
JMB: 4in Intake, Hotside Hardpipe
Hey guy need a little help. What are the fuel pump settings suppose to be? I have a ll my stuff setup, but whenever I put the car on the ON position the fuel pump relay clicks on and off rapidly. I checked the voltages on the relay contacts in the fuse box and 3 of them have 12volt on them. I do know for a fact the only 2 of them should voltage. The wrong contact if the one from the EMS that I believe should only ground the coil and not give it voltage. I'm new to the EMS but I do know how to troubleshoot. I don't want to make any change until I at least get some advice from some of the experienced EMS tuners on here. Any help is greatly appreciated, Thanks
not quite sure what exactly you are asking, the fuel pump relay settings are in the stock cal. what kind of pumps are you running? if you are trying to run an external pump with a high or low side driver with the ems you have to use it to control a relay not the device itself.the ems can only handle 1.5 amps itself.
c3-37 is the low side driver from the ecu to the fuel pump relay though.a little more information on the fuel pump setup would be helpful
i think i might have an idea of what you are talking about though when you say you have power on 3 pins on the relay.the way a relay works is it can be either high or low controlled (power or ground).for a low side relay you will have power going into the control side of the relay.on the coil side you also have power to one side of the coil.when ground is applied to the other side of the coil the relay will jump and pass power through to the other side of the power side.so if you are showing b+ on three pins the most likely scenario is that you are seeing the voltage coming through the coil side of the relay.if you ground that pin the relay will actuate.the other scenario is that if you are just lifting the relay and checking the pins while the relay is active you will see power on the coil side and both pins of the relay output side.there is another possiblity as well..if there is a short to power in the relay wiring
I know how a relay works which is why I checked the voltages on the contacts. When the key is on the Run position I get 12 volts on pin 86, 30 and 85. I know the pin 30 should always have voltage from the battery. Pin 86 should only have voltage when the key is on the RUN or start position. And pin 85 shouldn't have any voltage, it should only ground to energize the relay. But i'm getting voltage on pin 85 which is causing the relay to click on and off. I did load a base map for my setup. I gonna try to load the AEM startup cal to see if the clicking goes away.
are you sure it was the fuel pump relay clicking? sometimes you will hear clicking from the iac or boost solenoid because they work on similar frequencies.ill take a look at the wiring diagram in a bit
are you sure it was the fuel pump relay clicking? sometimes you will hear clicking from the iac or boost solenoid because they work on similar frequencies.ill take a look at the wiring diagram in a bit
OK don't know what is was but I loaded the AEM startup map and it stopped the clicking. So I tried to reload my map and start it again and it went away. So I guess maybe a bad connected from last. But anyways I have a new problem. First my idle is at 2500rpm. So tomorrow I'm gonna have to make me a boost leak tester. And secondly the car is still on jackstands and when I start the car and have tranny in neutral the wheels spin. I don't know if this has anything to do with the high idle but I'm gonna try and fix the idle first.
OK don't know what is was but I loaded the AEM startup map and it stopped the clicking. So I tried to reload my map and start it again and it went away. So I guess maybe a bad connected from last. But anyways I have a new problem. First my idle is at 2500rpm. So tomorrow I'm gonna have to make me a boost leak tester. And secondly the car is still on jackstands and when I start the car and have tranny in neutral the wheels spin. I don't know if this has anything to do with the high idle but I'm gonna try and fix the idle first.
hmm dunno..maybe you had loaded the viper map.if the idle is 2500 rpm check and make sure you dont have any vac leaks between the throttle body and head.was this a new build? for some reason the brake booster hose under the intake comes to mind. i wouldnt worry about the wheels spinning they will do that with no load on the wheels.thats just the clutch being engaged and turning the input shaft and intermediate shaft.if the wheels are on the ground they wont turn
Yea this was a 2.6 stroker with DCR Intake manifold. Thanks for assuring me about the wheels I was hoping that. Yea I thinki t's a leak also but it'll have to wait til tomorrow. I'll have to go to lowes and build me a leak tester. But at least she started that was my main concern!!!!
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