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Old 03-25-2008, 03:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default first things to look out for after installing aem ems?

alright, so i FINALLY got an AEM EMS. i pick it up off a local next week.

1stly, it is a uego ems, but i already have a wideband...so how's that work?


what are some things i need to adjust for right off the bat that usually needs to be done? some things i had in mind:

any calibrations/settings i need to set right off the bat aside from the coil dwell, map sensor, and injector ratings?

idle speed or tps related stuff: i have a 70mm tb/70mm ported intake mani, and crower s2 cams (202*/208* duration, 196/183 lift). what am i going to have to look out for w/ these 2 mods?

cold start up: if it takes a while to crank, do i go to the warm up fuel enrichment map and increase the raw? increase fuel load during cold coolant temps?

daily driven timing: i know stock runs high timing during closed loop driving conditions, what should i hope or shoot for timing wise?


i got more, but i cant think. as the day goes along, ill update.

ive had the actual AEM software for like 2months now, and am pretty WELL familiar w/ it, and comfortable for the most part. cold start and driveability tuning is my 1st concern to knock out.

thanks for any input

mike
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Old 03-25-2008, 04:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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X2 i'm putting mine in this weekend and need things to look out for. I too have had the program for about a year now just anxious to get it going.
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Old 03-25-2008, 06:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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its basicly plug up....load your favorite map and tune....mike im sure you got the basics.....im sure you have read over the tuner manual 40 times....you can get the tuning part

as far as the aem with uego.....im not sure how that works....because i believe you have to have the sensor for that computer in or im not sure if you can just unplug it and wire in the external gauge like everyone else does......jay or someone would best be able to answer that question.....but with those internal uego option it would be nice to sell the regular wideband and buy one of those aem scan gauges that you can use to read the afr and timing and all that just like the scan gauges do
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Old 03-25-2008, 06:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by onthedwnlow View Post
its basicly plug up....load your favorite map and tune....mike im sure you got the basics.....im sure you have read over the tuner manual 40 times....you can get the tuning part

as far as the aem with uego.....im not sure how that works....because i believe you have to have the sensor for that computer in or im not sure if you can just unplug it and wire in the external gauge like everyone else does......jay or someone would best be able to answer that question.....but with those internal uego option it would be nice to sell the regular wideband and buy one of those aem scan gauges that you can use to read the afr and timing and all that just like the scan gauges do


yea i got the basics down. thanks for the help through pm's bro.
i just dont wana crank it for the 1st time and hear it struggling to turn on, or even just have a hard time cranking and not turn over.

ive been looking over the stock v1.19cal map, lagzilla's 50trim tuned map, n2mb's 50trim/12's setup, and fastattacks maps just to get familiarized w/ what they are using as their settings.

i am going to setup a base map using the stock cal or n2mb's map (unless you wana help since we're similar setups) w/ the timing adjusted to my likings during these next few days so that i can be able to just drive the car around for the next month and be able to go WOT at moderate boost safely until she gets dyno tuned by a tuner here locally (seems like there is 1 guy i feel safe w/ inwhich he builds/tunes 500+hp evo's on a reg. basis, and built/tuned a locals' 35r setup).

hmm i will have to check out the aem scan gauges you are talking about.


i am actually checking out the EMS/box tonite... what do i look for in the model number that diferentiates between the uego and non uego?
he says its the uego, but ran a aem wideband. he's fairly "new" to tuning, and doesnt know much...

product code: Product Code: AEM 30-1510
so im assuming for a Uego EMS has the U at the ends 1510?

EDIT: 1510 is non-uego. 1510U is uego. ill keep my eye out for that when i look at the box tonite.

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Old 03-25-2008, 07:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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no matter what the first time you try to start the car you will have problems starting it....just leave the stock cal or one of those other maps in it and adjust from there......my aem came out of a profesinally tuned dcr stroker car.....i found some things in his map that make for really good driveability....

the uego model has a really big plug on the one side of the ems if im not mistaken.... its not the typical stock computer plugs
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Old 03-25-2008, 07:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by onthedwnlow View Post
no matter what the first time you try to start the car you will have problems starting it....just leave the stock cal or one of those other maps in it and adjust from there......my aem came out of a profesinally tuned dcr stroker car.....i found some things in his map that make for really good driveability....

the uego model has a really big plug on the one side of the ems if im not mistaken.... its not the typical stock computer plugs


any particular reasons to that? those are the problems im trying to troubleshoot Now before i get it installed just so that when i go to crank it, it starts, and if it doesnt, i know exactly wehre to jump to, to get it running...

and hmm. coo, so im assuming his is non uego
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Old 03-25-2008, 07:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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the reason behind that is because there is so many variables to a modded car....boost leaks, injectors, fuel pressure, temps out side, cam timing, overall condition of the motor.......there are so many many things that can change from car to car that no matter what at some point of the tuning process there will be starting issues....your enrichment table might be good with 1 fuel map....then you tune that fuel map and you need to adjust the enrichment table.....and then the idle duty has to be tuned.....and the cold start rpm's have to be tuned......trust me its not plug in make a tune on a computer and run......its a long road to make it all work

thats a non uego
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Old 03-25-2008, 09:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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makes sense.

i need someone like you knowledgeable out this way so i can just pay somebody, leave the car w/ em while im off at school for the week, and come back w/ it all tuned.

this internet help can only go so far. :/
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Old 03-25-2008, 09:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by DRASTIC. View Post
makes sense.

i need someone like you knowledgeable out this way so i can just pay somebody, leave the car w/ em while im off at school for the week, and come back w/ it all tuned.

this internet help can only go so far. :/

once you get it running i can show you how to tune the afr chart the easy way.....and all the other stuff is minor.....trst me i have over 80 hours in my tune.....i have been working on it for a long time......and have it almost perfect....and it will be getting its dyno pulls done soon
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Old 03-25-2008, 09:19 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by onthedwnlow View Post
once you get it running i can show you how to tune the afr chart the easy way.....and all the other stuff is minor.....trst me i have over 80 hours in my tune.....i have been working on it for a long time......and have it almost perfect....and it will be getting its dyno pulls done soon


coo. you'll hafta shoot me your # pimp. kus ill be ringing you quite a bit.

i might install it next weekend depending on if i got enough money to buy a map sensor.


i still needa figure out why my boost is building so slow. 15psi at 3700rpms is brutal. but it pulls harder at 15psi w/ NO FUEL CONTROLLER/Tune than my 3147 at 19psi.
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Old 03-25-2008, 09:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by DRASTIC. View Post
coo. you'll hafta shoot me your # pimp. kus ill be ringing you quite a bit.

i might install it next weekend depending on if i got enough money to buy a map sensor.


i still needa figure out why my boost is building so slow. 15psi at 3700rpms is brutal. but it pulls harder at 15psi w/ NO FUEL CONTROLLER/Tune than my 3147 at 19psi.

just let me know and i can give it to ya....

there was a aem 3.5 for sale on here earlier

i know i had a gt3071r setup on my car a while back and with my aem tru-boost the spool was so slow it was not even funny......i tore it out and put a mbc on that bish and the spool was what it was supposed to be....it felt so damn slow with that late boost
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Old 03-25-2008, 09:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by onthedwnlow View Post
just let me know and i can give it to ya....

there was a aem 3.5 for sale on here earlier

i know i had a gt3071r setup on my car a while back and with my aem tru-boost the spool was so slow it was not even funny......i tore it out and put a mbc on that bish and the spool was what it was supposed to be....it felt so damn slow with that late boost

yea the aem 3.5 is a dude that is local. but dont you need to splice wires? then i need to buy the ragetek adapter...and rage LAGSSSS

ima just buy a 3bar mopar. im all about plug and play.


so you're thinking i should swap out mbc's eh? its a cheapie ebay w/ a ceramic ball (or so they say)

i was gunna get a dual stage turbosmart....but now im thinking a hallman. get the best there is, and just eliminate part of the equation...
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Old 03-25-2008, 11:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
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the ems will comtrol your boost better than any of those, and depending on the tension of your waste gate you will be able to get any amount of boost when and where you want it, the serial gauge is very advanced programing "its got another computer in the gauge" you cant fine tune the driveability /idle untill you get the dyno tune "you need to have stable rpm/load to tune it properly"or find a realy big hill to tune the car and you probly gona have to zero out all the modifiers to tune your tables "just cut and paste work maps of your table back to the base tune with modifiers after your tables are good"
then tune the modifiers/ the idle is probly gona need adjusting on the iac map to get a nice smooth idle but it can be done. you should have no problems just keep your timing under control untill you get an egt sensor
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Old 03-26-2008, 12:02 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by nutz View Post
the ems will comtrol your boost better than any of those, and depending on the tension of your waste gate you will be able to get any amount of boost when and where you want it, the serial gauge is very advanced programing "its got another computer in the gauge" you cant fine tune the driveability /idle untill you get the dyno tune "you need to have stable rpm/load to tune it properly"or find a realy big hill to tune the car and you probly gona have to zero out all the modifiers to tune your tables "just cut and paste work maps of your table back to the base tune with modifiers after your tables are good"
then tune the modifiers/ the idle is probly gona need adjusting on the iac map to get a nice smooth idle but it can be done. you should have no problems just keep your timing under control untill you get an egt sensor




thanks for the advice.

ima dump it on a mustang load dyno and have a Legit tuner out here tune the drivability.

shoot me your #, if you dont mind. when i install my EMS, i'd like some assistance if i get caught up w/ issues...
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Old 03-26-2008, 07:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by DRASTIC. View Post
yea the aem 3.5 is a dude that is local. but dont you need to splice wires? then i need to buy the ragetek adapter...and rage LAGSSSS

ima just buy a 3bar mopar. im all about plug and play.


so you're thinking i should swap out mbc's eh? its a cheapie ebay w/ a ceramic ball (or so they say)

i was gunna get a dual stage turbosmart....but now im thinking a hallman. get the best there is, and just eliminate part of the equation...

the mopar 3 bar has a problem with not haveing a good vac scale......meaning.....they dont read very well in the lower vac numbers and thus making it harder to tune.....you should be able to get over this because you have cams and thus less vac at idle anyway
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