380whp on 17psi on the dyno.... Showing signs of spark knock at 20psi so we are sticking to 19psi on 93 octane. On 19psi it should be well over 400whp.
Remember we can't run 22psi on 93 octane like before, with these high 8.9.1 compression pistons.
Use the Internal Logger rather than the PC Logger. You can get 250 samples per second with no hickups!
If you have to stick to the PC Logger, simply log only the essential channels. The more channels you are logging, the slower everything will become.
the only reason why I want the pc logging is to get around 30 mins of a log to check my AFR's , timing and RPM through out my daily driving.
i want to increase some of the fuel efficency of the car.. right now its crusing in the 12.3-13.0 I would like to get it close to stock as possible to get some more efficiency out of the car..
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Because Chrysler uses direct-drive coils, the ECU has to source all of the current. It is completely normal for the ignition drivers to get warm, but with too much coil dwell, they will get too hot. This becomes a problem if the engine stays at high engine speeds for an extended period. This new setting will eliminate this from being a problem.
How absurd men are! They never use the liberties they have, they demand those they do not have. They have freedom of thought, they demand freedom of speech.
Because Chrysler uses direct-drive coils, the ECU has to source all of the current. It is completely normal for the ignition drivers to get warm, but with too much coil dwell, they will get too hot. This becomes a problem if the engine stays at high engine speeds for an extended period. This new setting will eliminate this from being a problem.
well i got the ems in and got my self a nice little base map, i pulled 303whp and 300wtq on a mustang dyno with 20lbs on 91octane. the afrs are a 10.6 all the way through to 6600. and reading NO knock what so ever. the car feels strong as hell WAY better then it did with the safc, its so much more efficient its awesome. and i still have alot of room to grow. i couldnt be happier
what turbo are you running? those are great numbers with regards to your afr's and the fact that you had no knock at all. you can probably pull a bit of fuel and crank the timing up a bit more and pick up another 20+ with that same boost level. get the map tweaked a bit more and post up the map with a list of your mods. just remember to be specific with regards to what mods you have
well i got the ems in and got my self a nice little base map, i pulled 303whp and 300wtq on a mustang dyno with 20lbs on 91octane. the afrs are a 10.6 all the way through to 6600. and reading NO knock what so ever. the car feels strong as hell WAY better then it did with the safc, its so much more efficient its awesome. and i still have alot of room to grow. i couldnt be happier
eh are you reading knock or knock raw
our knock sensor is not like an evo or any other car, according to the tech's its a very small voltage change that indicates knock.
so be aware of that!
I might be upgrading my knock sensor so I can actually even read the noise.
teh ems shoudl be able to pick it up, though someoen should get ahold of aem and see what the knock sensor setup is configured like. will it read the low voltage signal?
teh ems shoudl be able to pick it up, though someoen should get ahold of aem and see what the knock sensor setup is configured like. will it read the low voltage signal?
it will if you read the raw knock, but regular knock channel #1 will be stuck at like 0.02 volts ( check next time )
I called them up after Marco did to check up on the voltages, especially since i told them I am writing a review on this thing and I want to know exactly what the aem can pick up or not pick up
worst comes to worst i am upgrading the knock sensor.
Last edited by FastAttack : 05-17-2006 at 10:35 PM.
Tex,
Marco spoke to a tech at AEM and I believe you have to read the RAW, like Fast says the voltage changes on the stock knock sensor when it sees knock is so low that just looking at knock may not show it.
Not sure what the raw voltage has to read to be knock though....
Tex,
Marco spoke to a tech at AEM and I believe you have to read the RAW, like Fast says the voltage changes on the stock knock sensor when it sees knock is so low that just looking at knock may not show it.
Not sure what the raw voltage has to read to be knock though....
Yeah Marco called the first time and he has Henry I believe working on the case of the PC logs as well as the knock stuff.
I have some other dude following up on the raw voltage to see what the ranges are.
well, i will call henry in the next couple days and figure out what exactly can be done. does anyone know the partnumber of a differnt knock sensor that will bolt in and take teh place of the factory one?
You have to check with AEM but i believe you can use a GM sensor for the Corvette, but you may have to drill and tap a larger hole so it can screw directly in. BTW, the GM sensor is a single wire.
well, i will call henry in the next couple days and figure out what exactly can be done. does anyone know the partnumber of a differnt knock sensor that will bolt in and take teh place of the factory one?
we are the pioneers so I guess we have to figure it out or get aem to give us an indication hehe
BTW Nemo from Rage-Tek finalized some of the drivability stuff today and I thank him for it in other words 2 people have worked on getting this map together so far..
Nemo Drivability and Marco for the nice curve of power
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