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Old 01-04-2008, 12:34 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default HX-40 on 30psi, 750cc injectors, 100% meth injection 2 M5 nozzles

7_0 idle 800rpms.V1.21.cal

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AGP RACE BFMIC
Forged pistons and rods.
STOCK cams/springs.
Holset HX-40 on 30psi, controlled by the stock solenoid.
750cc injectors on 60psi static fuel pressure (no vac line on AGP FPR)
2 M5 nozzles spraying 100% meth triggered at 15psi

USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! This map runs great on my car, but no two cars are the same.

So here goes, this is my latest map. I'm mainly throwing it out tonight, because I am pretty happy with it and I have finally managed to get a nice steady 800rpm idle and the best driveability to date.

NOTES:

Traction control is not turned on, because the current settings didn't work on my car, but they worked fine on another 50trim car I've been tuning. On my car, the TC pulls too much timing, which has nearly the same effect as the drag race antilag, throwing lots of unburnt fuel out into the turbo, causing me to hit overboost. I just haven't had time to play with that yet.

Drag race antilag is ON. When the clutch and gas pedal are on the floor, "ALT" mode activates. This builds boost on the line and works similar to the "boost hold" feature of the dodge ECUs. While racing, simply keep the gas to the floor, quickly push the clutch down, change gears and release the clutch. To build boost on the line I usually floor the gas first, then press the clutch after a second or two. There may be a delay before you see the boost needle skyrocket.

2-step is set for 4500. Both of these work together to build more boost than you could ever want off the line - on my car I can easily build 16-20psi. That would probably be way too much for launching at the track, but currently with those settings I get an awesome WOT shift. If you want less boost, advance the "fixed timing" setting or remove some fuel.

For the last two days/nights temps have been in the 20s-40s. I still have the stock air temp sensor in my coldside intercooler pipe, and for these two days it has been reading 30-40 degrees constantly. Also, with the AGP RACE and HX-40, even beating on the car I cannot get the temps to rise. You may notice I have the air temp fuel trim disabled though - a few days ago one of the wires to the temp sensor had worn through, but it had started getting cold and I just zeroed out the air fuel trim. I may play with this a bit more soon.

Boost is currently controlled by the stock solenoid. My turbonetics 38mm wastegate has a boost line run from the turbo to the bottom port. A line also runs from the top port on the WG to the middle port on the #2 stock (boost) solenoid. There is also a boost line from the turbo running to the top port on the #2 solenoid. If you plan on using my boost map, turn the VSS boost target WAY down, then turn it slowly back up as you see that it works for your car.

I currently hit 20psi at 3700rpms, 25psi at 4100rpms and 30 I can't remember right now, but not too much further. Car pulls like a raped ape.

On my previous maps, I've always ran a 900rpm idle. This was because I had a hard time getting a stable idle at 800 and taking off on the street at 800rpms was very weak feeling. The trick it would seem was in the ignition timing - previously I'd had it way too high. Now the idle is much more stable than when I had it at 900 and taking of is actually better than before.
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Old 01-07-2008, 11:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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7_4 RAD FANS 160 Idle 800.V1.19.cal

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I've made a few small changes to this one, in addition to converting the map to v1.19 so that more people can read it.

- Radiator fans are now set to come on at 171F and turn off at 160F. I haven't decided yet if I'm going to leave it this way. If you're wondering how I can actually reach that temperature (or lower), I took a stock thermostat and broke it on purpose, so it flows 100% all the time. On cold nights, unless I'm really pushing the car a lot, the temp won't climb above 150F, yet I have hot air within a minute of driving the car.

- A few small fuel changes, otherwise nothing else that I can think of.
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Old 02-18-2008, 09:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That's freaking insane you've been able to get 30lbs of boost out of the stock solenoid.
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Old 02-24-2008, 08:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by OrAnGe-SrT4 View Post
That's freaking insane you've been able to get 30lbs of boost out of the stock solenoid.

It's just a solenoid. I could easily go higher than 30 if I needed to.
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Old 02-27-2008, 05:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by RedSpeedFreak View Post
It's just a solenoid. I could easily go higher than 30 if I needed to.

yes and no...it will work until you reach the mechanical limit of the gate.then you need co2 to hold the gate closed.i found the stock solenoid works great.i think the only difference between it and the aem or gm solenoid is the actual vacuum line connections to the solenoid are solid and tight whereas the stock solenoid leaves you wondering if it will blow off
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Old 02-27-2008, 05:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by never2muchboost View Post
yes and no...it will work until you reach the mechanical limit of the gate.then you need co2 to hold the gate closed.i found the stock solenoid works great.i think the only difference between it and the aem or gm solenoid is the actual vacuum line connections to the solenoid are solid and tight whereas the stock solenoid leaves you wondering if it will blow off

I've been to 33-35psi by accident. This turbo will easily pass that if it wants to. Other turbos may not.

Zip tie the stock solenoid lines and you won't have a problem.
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Old 02-28-2008, 07:04 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by RedSpeedFreak View Post
I've been to 33-35psi by accident. This turbo will easily pass that if it wants to. Other turbos may not.

Zip tie the stock solenoid lines and you won't have a problem.

hello howard pmd you yesterday im looking for a stock compressor housing check your pms and let me know thanks men
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