I'm posting this because I'm finally at a point at which I'm relatively happy with it. I keep forgetting there's a problem with the software that seems to cause it to not read the RPM right in the datalogs though - I need to add a .dll to my laptop to fix it.
In other words, although I normally see 20+ psi at 4000 rpms, the datalogs don't show it. (Either that, or I've got an exhaust manifold leak...)
Edit: Forgot to mention I'm using the STOCK solenoid to run my turbonetics external WG, top and bottom ports.
From reading up on the 1.21 firmware, the updates to it were supposed to correct speedometer calibrations for the F-body guys, and AEM recommends sticking with 1.19 for anyone else to keep things simple...Just a heads up. None of the maps for the SRT that I've seen use the 1.21 firmware, except yours.
hey also man your car must run like a mad man, becuase you are running crazy high timing for that boost on pump gas man, specially with 8.5:1 compression. I see the logs and I think you might be getting some knock man.
hey also man your car must run like a mad man, becuase you are running crazy high timing for that boost on pump gas man, specially with 8.5:1 compression. I see the logs and I think you might be getting some knock man.
Ed
I'm also running meth injection though and somebody said in the other thread about "what is real knock" that "real knock" would be over 1 volt. Because of that thread I've increased my timing and adjusted my knock table to allow up to .2 of a volt before pulling timing.
I'd love to get some more opinions though - if everybody thinks that is knock, I'll turn it back down. But yeah, it pulls pretty nice. Currently I'm working on tuning the drag race antilag for WOT shifting to see if it works better than the shift retard.
This morning I found out I had a crack/leak in my bottom wastegate port line, so I replaced the hose and now I've got my 27psi back. Time to pick up a 3.5 bar sensor...
hey man no prob, lol I thought it was on straight pump , but even on meth that is pretty high timing bro IMO with 25psi of boost that i saw in log. Also you need to fix ur boost selenoid a bit cuz boost is acting crazy....
I normally tune till I see knock but been reading for a long time now the best way of tuning is MBT.
As per the drag engineers and guys that tune 1000whp cars all the time they stated that MBT is always acheieved 4-5 deg below real knock. So what you need to do really man is spend some dyno money and just dyno the car and tune MBT. Will make your engine run better and last longer.
Thanks for the advice man. I am actually planning on jumping on a dyno here real soon - like another week or two. I want to get my car tuned decent before I bring it in.
I'm still trying to decide...I'm thinking about switching to an AEM or GM solenoid for my boost control. I'm not sure the factory solenoid can keep up...but I wanted to figure out how far I could go with it first.
Actually, I was just taking a look at one of my logs from today and I think I have finally seen my first bit of real knock - 1.3volts for about a second.
I'm adjusting for this right now. First time I have EVER seen anything over .2 volts. Looks like I might have been fine if it weren't for me adding some timing from the AIT sensor...
EDIT: No idea why, suddenly using the same template as before I am picking up a bunch of crap in my logs like "VTEC" and "FUEL PUMP". WTF?
Last edited by RedSpeedFreak : 08-23-2007 at 09:16 PM.
Thanks for the advice man. I am actually planning on jumping on a dyno here real soon - like another week or two. I want to get my car tuned decent before I bring it in.
I'm still trying to decide...I'm thinking about switching to an AEM or GM solenoid for my boost control. I'm not sure the factory solenoid can keep up...but I wanted to figure out how far I could go with it first.
Actually, I was just taking a look at one of my logs from today and I think I have finally seen my first bit of real knock - 1.3volts for about a second.
I'm adjusting for this right now. First time I have EVER seen anything over .2 volts. Looks like I might have been fine if it weren't for me adding some timing from the AIT sensor...
EDIT: No idea why, suddenly using the same template as before I am picking up a bunch of crap in my logs like "VTEC" and "FUEL PUMP". WTF?
yah you should go with the AEM selenoid cuz the stock one is not tha great per say.
Can you do a 3rd gear pull starting at say 2500 rpm and datalog Knock #1 volts? [added to your list]
__________________
www.Realtuned.com Each car built/tuned/track prepped in house
{9.96@146 Fred@Realtune build}{9.98@144 Squishy332000 build}{10.08@148 Erabbit23 build}{10.62@138 Karkraft build}{10.80@127 Mezturbo4 build}{10.88@129 90VNT build}{10.97@136 srt4me18 build}
{11.62@128 Realtune Caliber}{11.85@119 Whoosh@Realtune Caliber} Home of the Worlds Quickest/Fastest CSRT-4, Manual NSRT4, and Stock turbo SRT4
Last edited by aaronneon@RealTune : 08-24-2007 at 08:40 AM.
Hmm...I don't know what to say about these. The software isn't recording the boost right, because I watched both of these pulls from 3000-4500 on the boost gauge and both times I hit 20psi at 4000rpms. 27 comes no later than 4500.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.