Why do people get high MPH at the track?

[dragradial]

I have the basic mods on my car ,but my mph seam low at around 100 mph.
13.8 / 2.1 60 ft

On stock turbo I see guys getting 105 mph and higher is it the mods or maybe my engine is getting tiered.

[Jagok1]

Cause you're spinning at the line, grab traction in a higher mph, thus the result of a higher mph trap

[dragradial]

Dont think im spinning I chirp some times.

[addictedtosin]

The mph indicates the hp you are actually makeing. The ET is just a traction factor.

[hardcore]

the question is, what are your "basic mods"?

I didn't gain much trap speed, or ET, until I added fuel and started tuning. Before that I was very disappointed with bolt-on results. (ie- S1 cpu, s2 wga, e-cutout downpipe, FMIC etc)

[dragradial]

Intake, exhaust, agp fuel return, afc 2, walbro 255 pump, MM, dot tires 20 psi,
18 on boost, wide band.

I had it tuned and dynoed at 276 whp.

P.S. never ran race gas.

[lyncoo]

you shold be i n the high 12 low 13s at 107-110 with those mods

[lyncoo]

what do you have to hide boost, fuel controller wise

[mustangbryan]

if your chirpping gears that also causes your time to be a lil lower. The littlest thing like chirping gears is the difference between trapping 100 instead of 105..

60 foot def. needs to improve too cause 2.1 is an ok 60 foot.

DM FTW

[dragradial]

Also stage 1 computer. I also have 87,000 miles on it.

[hardcore]

Something has to be wrong, lyncoo is right about your trap speeds. Borrow a scan gauge from someone to see if you are getting excessive knock and to see what timing you are running. Do a compression test to see if your motor is healthy.

I never dynoed my car, but the time in my sig was on DTEC FBC, S2 wga, S1 ecu, Needswings open dump and mini fmic on stock KDW's at 35psi. I also schedule boost by gear and rpm: 1st - 10psi, 2nd - 17psi dropping to 15, 3rd and up - 20psi falling to 15. I had to drop pressure toward redline to avoid KR. I estimate i was in the 270-280whp range, similar to you.

[racinready300ex]

Quote: Originally Posted by addictedtosin

The mph indicates the hp you are actually makeing. The ET is just a traction factor.

I have to disagree, a little. It's been my experance that with really bad 60's your mph drops, and the 60' improves so does the mph. But, after a point the 60's can get really fast and you start losing mph.

But, your right mph indicates hp. But, mph can vary depending how well you can get outa the hole.

[addictedtosin]

at 18 psi boost with some boltons you should be running about 105-107 with your hp. I would check everything and make sure theres no boost leaks. check AFRs, stuff like that.

[lilmike0450]

Quote: Originally Posted by racinready300ex

I have to disagree, a little. It's been my experance that with really bad 60's your mph drops, and the 60' improves so does the mph. But, after a point the 60's can get really fast and you start losing mph.

But, your right mph indicates hp. But, mph can vary depending how well you can get outa the hole.

I went to the track last week and cut a 1.83 60ft and my mph of 107.69
My second run I spun my slicks on the rims and cut a 2.15 60ft and my mph was 107.62...so I dont know about your 60ft theory.

[jfcampeau]

12.96 @ 113.1mph 2.02ft
13.02 @ 113.7mph 2.09ft

Stg 1 + kinetic wga + 3"downpipe catless + Spearco bfmic + General Exclaim UHP at 20psi + 15degrees outside. Boost = 20lbs. Boost to red-line = 16lbs.

Everything else is STOCK.

This season, adding = walbro + NGK spark plugs + MSD wires + CAI + catch can + catback mopar + Slicks for a best E.T.

Would be nice to trap 114mph.