TKMS is also proud to introduce our strap Kit. After testing on several cars to include or 600+hp shop car, we are formally releasing the kit. We have always recommended a strap kit for car over 450hp to prevent the bedplate from cracking (pictures coming soon). Trust me, I learned first hand This kit comes with strengthened ARP studs and is good for over 800hp. You must send us your bedplate to custom match the kit. Not necessary, but we recommend that you have your machine shop check the line bore. We include oversized bearing (just in case) and ARP studs in the kit
$379 plus shipping
Options: Cryogenics treated ARP studs $125 extra
Pics of it mounted:
What happens without a strap kit.
__________________
Co Owner/Operator
Tele: 1-336-510-9329
For ubelievable prices: WWW.TKMOTORSPORT.COM
2005 SRT-4 (603whp at 28 psi/535whp at 22 psi. No spray!!!
2008 Lexus IS350 (stock besides exhaust)
2006 Ram SRT-10 Reg Cab
**RIP Tim Kim**
Last edited by RUSH@TKMotorsports : 01-04-2009 at 02:13 AM.
So, were you running w/out a strap kit, but with machined arches? Or is that a bedplate you guys did some practice machining with?
Also, what were you using for tuning on your 510whp run? I can't imagine the bedplate giving up with only 510whp, unless you were piggybacked, and ran into some severe ignition knock (common with piggybacks)...
So, were you running w/out a strap kit, but with machined arches? Or is that a bedplate you guys did some practice machining with?
Also, what were you using for tuning on your 510whp run? I can't imagine the bedplate giving up with only 510whp, unless you were piggybacked, and ran into some severe ignition knock (common with piggybacks)...
This bedplate was destroyed on my personal shop car doing a highway pull from 60mph to 150mph plus on unmodified bedplate. After getting off of it, I heard a slight tapping that slowly got louder. It did not happen on the dyno and the car was running an AEM EMS. It had nothing to do with knock. Once you reach a certain point, SRT-4 blocks were never designed to withstand the amount of power that we ask them to hold. The weakest link always gives. You might hold 500 today, 600 tomorrow, then on a 450hp fling.......snap, crack, pop
For the record, I'm not trying to market any products that aren't necessary. From my personal experience, I'd say a strap kit is the best investment you can make if you push your car past 450whp. My reason is that once the bedplate is gone, you gotta buy a new block with bedplate because a SRT-4 block and bedplate are made from the same mold. Also, a cracked bedplate will lead to other issues like messed up rods, pistons, and metal stuff floating around in your engine that can destroy your turbo.
Last edited by RUSH@TKMotorsports : 11-09-2008 at 11:52 PM.
Not gonna argue the necessity of a strap kit. I'll be running one with the build I'm working on. Just kind of surprised that it went at that power level. But I guess I've just been extraordinarily lucky with my stock block...
Chuck, I wasn't offended in no way at all or was I trying to argue. Anybody that knows "RUSH", they'd say I am really easy going. Anytime you spend hard earned money, you gotta investigate and ask questions. I commend you for asking questions. Let me know if you have any other questions. I'm gonna have Nick who Co-Owns the shop with me and who's father designed and fabricated the kit chime in on this thread to answer questions .
Last edited by RUSH@TKMotorsports : 11-10-2008 at 07:19 PM.
So, were you running w/out a strap kit, but with machined arches? Or is that a bedplate you guys did some practice machining with?
Also, what were you using for tuning on your 510whp run? I can't imagine the bedplate giving up with only 510whp, unless you were piggybacked, and ran into some severe ignition knock (common with piggybacks)...
Yes this is the bedplate that we set-up the milling machine and tested on
For if the line bore is off with the straps installed since the load is now spread across the main caps. The straps should be torqued down and the line bore checked
thats what I thought originally, but there was some argument with the machine shop, thats why I asked, So I take it they cut the crank if it is off and thats where the bearings come in? And what kind of silicone/sealer are you using for the bedplate?
why not just keep it going, and make 2 super long ones and machine it for where the 4 bolts from the Balance shafts go?
My only problem with it,
1 price
2 how is machining the curved I beam of the bedplate, and having all the load ride on 2 less then a 1\4" ribs that the whole main support to ride on?
I personally want to see a key wayed main support ribs, and actually fill the rib, so that the load is completely spread evenly. Even if you don't make them KEYED, and machine the ribs. Why not make 2 bigger ones that have 4 bolts in them, and utilize the balance shaft holes?
I personally found that the bedplate isn't a issue for me. I've cracked cylinders, before anything else in the engine let go.
why not just keep it going, and make 2 super long ones and machine it for where the 4 bolts from the Balance shafts go?
My only problem with it,
1 price
2 how is machining the curved I beam of the bedplate, and having all the load ride on 2 less then a 1\4" ribs that the whole main support to ride on?
I personally want to see a key wayed main support ribs, and actually fill the rib, so that the load is completely spread evenly. Even if you don't make them KEYED, and machine the ribs. Why not make 2 bigger ones that have 4 bolts in them, and utilize the balance shaft holes?
I personally found that the bedplate isn't a issue for me. I've cracked cylinders, before anything else in the engine let go.
You just went above my skill level on strap kits I'm going to ask Nick to chime in on these questions.
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