I tried those settings and the gauge shows 7.8 all the time.. its really starting to piss me off
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F&F Stage III 47lb turbo
Returnline
AGP WGA,
Rolling thunder Race head
Snow Performance Stage II Meth/inj
11.40@125mph 26psi and no boost leak New times with new race head coming soon
No same bullshit. I thought maybve my car was running that rich as in normal driving it bounces... but i turned my FP down and took my meth off and it still reads damn 7.8 at WOT... its freaking pissing me off.
I think the issue is I need to redo the heater and free air calibration. Ill try tomorrow or Thursday and she how she does. Id venture you hooked your analog 1 or 2 to the yellow wire of the LC1. By default the yellow wire is 0-1v so it dont move much. You can program this in the LM Programmer or use the brown wire instead.
I think the issue is I need to redo the heater and free air calibration. Ill try tomorrow or Thursday and she how she does. Id venture you hooked your analog 1 or 2 to the yellow wire of the LC1. By default the yellow wire is 0-1v so it dont move much. You can program this in the LM Programmer or use the brown wire instead.
Great info bud.. let me know how ur calibration goes as i tried to recalibrate mine.. but i dint free air it for 6 hrs. Let me know
Are you guys getting an output from the LC1? If you're showing 7.8 or close to this all the time it means the Interceptor is seeing close to "0" volts all the time from the LC1. Check to make sure you've connected the correct wire from the LC1, then check this output with a voltmeter, or set the slope to 1, intercept to 0 to read raw voltage on the gauge. I know you are going to read about 0 volts. Something's not right with the LC1 or the connections.
Are you guys getting an output from the LC1? If you're showing 7.8 or close to this all the time it means the Interceptor is seeing close to "0" volts all the time from the LC1. Check to make sure you've connected the correct wire from the LC1, then check this output with a voltmeter, or set the slope to 1, intercept to 0 to read raw voltage on the gauge. I know you are going to read about 0 volts. Something's not right with the LC1 or the connections.
But you can use the serial cable with the LC1 and change both to be 0-5v. Or just use the brown and call it a day =P
By the way mine is now working after doing the heater and free air calibration. Its not 100% the same as the lc1 though, I may increase the slope by .1 and see how it looks. Btw is there a way to make the analog update faster? I read in the instructions something about the rpms updating faster at high rpms, can I turn this feature on for the analog. Id like it to be as realtime as possible.
But you can use the serial cable with the LC1 and change both to be 0-5v. Or just use the brown and call it a day =P
By the way mine is now working after doing the heater and free air calibration. Its not 100% the same as the lc1 though, I may increase the slope by .1 and see how it looks. Btw is there a way to make the analog update faster? I read in the instructions something about the rpms updating faster at high rpms, can I turn this feature on for the analog. Id like it to be as realtime as possible.
Did you change the wiring or did u just re-calibrate it?
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LC1 and ScanGauge settings
Linear Mode
