OK here is a question! I went and got my car tuned two weeks ago and the guy was watching my knock reading rather then A/F's(guy was a moron) while running 10.5 A/F's he was seeing 5+ counts of knock at redline. Does the stock PCM read Rich Knock?? Kinda confused here.
Knock is a huge priority to me. I've seen while tuning my own car I could in cold weather run an AFR of 12.5, car moved like a bat out of hell with great timing and no knock...and then on a different tune in warmer weather have a nice 11.6 air/fuel yet knocking 3.5-4.0+ on the counter.
Trust me get the most timing and the leanest you can get w/o having that knock counter go up...EGTs are important too but if you have no way of monitoring it just use some common sense and don't run 12.1+ on the AFR and you should be okay.
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2007 Audi A4 3.2 QUATTRO
2004 Dodge SRT-4 (SOLD!)
1999 Chevy Camaro (SOLD!)
Knock is a huge priority to me. I've seen while tuning my own car I could in cold weather run an AFR of 12.5, car moved like a bat out of hell with great timing and no knock...and then on a different tune in warmer weather have a nice 11.6 air/fuel yet knocking 3.5-4.0+ on the counter.
Trust me get the most timing and the leanest you can get w/o having that knock counter go up...EGTs are important too but if you have no way of monitoring it just use some common sense and don't run 12.1+ on the AFR and you should be okay.
Well car was running in 112-degree weather all day with A/F's at 10.5 and seeing so much knock and he wasn't watching timing the guy did not know how to tune I guess just my car!
quick question..when i was on my way home just now i decided to get on it a little bit and i saw kr jump up to 6.0 what i dont get is how can i have that much knock on an essentially stock car only a needswings dp and stage 1. My question is since i had the cutout open and my control arms are shot is there anyway that the knock is caused by some other vibration because i find it hard to believe i have 6 counts of kr boosting only 13 psi /rant
quick question..when i was on my way home just now i decided to get on it a little bit and i saw kr jump up to 6.0 what i dont get is how can i have that much knock on an essentially stock car only a needswings dp and stage 1. My question is since i had the cutout open and my control arms are shot is there anyway that the knock is caused by some other vibration because i find it hard to believe i have 6 counts of kr boosting only 13 psi /rant
13psi on the stock boost gauge = much higher boost perhaps and that's why
Don't trust the stock boost gauge (I was boosting "15-16psi" on mine and was knocking and I put a new gauge in...voila 23psi oops)
Some GM cars are susceptable to false knock, and perhaps the SRT4 is as well but I have not heard of this very often.
Fact is the PCM is seeing knock, so you need to find out why. It could be anything from bad gas, dirty injectors, high boost, poor IC performance, inaccurate boost gauge, etc. Do you have a MAP clamp? You'll also tend to get more knock on really hot days on a hot engine.
I have no map clamp or anything still on stock wga and I've already ruled out the gauge not being right I swapped in my friends autometer 30/30 and it still read 13psi. I always fill up with shell 93 and my injectors where cleaned less than 4000 miles ago I'm really stumped as to why a basically stock car would have so much kr. Also it was around 65 degress last night so I don't think the engine was suffering too much. Just one more thing I promise it only seems to knock in 2nd and 3rd gear none whatsoever in 4th or 5th
Ok so I just recorded a little bit of 2nd and 3rd and here's what I got
2nd gear Rpm kr
4526 1
4782 .5
5693 0
3rd gear rpm kr
4452 1
4567 .5
4708 1
4870 2.5
4973 2
4985 0
not saying it's okay (as I was always 0.0 no matter what until I map clamped my car) but general rule of thumb is under 3.0 KR on pump gas is acceptable and anything under 5.0 KR on race gas is acceptable. Have you tried resetting the ECU so the fuel tables trims get reset to zero. As a matter of fact before you do that check what the long term fuel trim reads on the aeroforce.
not saying it's okay (as I was always 0.0 no matter what until I map clamped my car) but general rule of thumb is under 3.0 KR on pump gas is acceptable and anything under 5.0 KR on race gas is acceptable. Have you tried resetting the ECU so the fuel tables trims get reset to zero. As a matter of fact before you do that check what the long term fuel trim reads on the aeroforce.
i jsut took my car out today. was watching the fuel knock and it was around 3 degree. but my kr knock it like 5-6 degree on pump. I am sure the spark plugs have something to do with them. plan on changing them. but i am running a bigger turbo with Crower 2 cams (not brian cams). and boost at 21ish. so i might be pushing too much cfm's maybe. it is a little hot here in tx. so that might also have a little to do with it. I think a couple gallon of race gas should solve my problem...lol
well ST is short term knock happening now..
LT is Long Term PCM monitors to keep an automatic retard on timing..
of course I'm talking out my ass
pretty much but I've noticed LT knock resets to 0 after you cycle the ignition key.
Initially I was monitoring LT Knock and set the warning light to go off when it started climbing. Well in my tuning process of the MAP once I hit knock a good amount to trip it I noticed then anytime I gave it more than 1psi of boost bam it'd climb up high and fast...prooving to me it's long term and automatically killing timing right from the get go.
Cycle the key off and back on and it was okay until you pissed off the ECU again.
So yea I set the annunciator light now to ST Knock = 3.0 or higher light up. That's my tolerance level.
Ok so I just recorded a little bit of 2nd and 3rd and here's what I got
2nd gear Rpm kr
4526 1
4782 .5
5693 0
3rd gear rpm kr
4452 1
4567 .5
4708 1
4870 2.5
4973 2
4985 0
Any help is greatly appreciated
I agree, 0 is ideal but what you are seeing is very mild. In fact, it's probably typical.
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