when i look at o2 sensor voltage. i see that 900 is about 12:1.
so im assuming anything over 900 im starting to get lean??
if i was to tell u guys what mv i am running at WOT, would u be able to give me an around about A/F reading?
at WOT would i be looking for the mv at about what rpm?? 5500 to 6000??
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Mopar Stage1, Stage2 WGA, AEM SRI, MaxxFab 3" o2 housing, MPX Catless TurboBack Exhaust, PSI-FI Big FMIC, PT performance CheckValve, ATP Upp Pipe, HKS SSQV, Denso Iridium Plugs, MSD Wires, Prothane Race Motor Mount Inserts, JMB Catch Can, 15% tint all around. AeroForce Dual Scan Guages, Dual Guage pod for Apillar
Dyno Run with Mods above PCM CONTROLLED- 277.4 FWHP 292.6 Torque.
when i look at o2 sensor voltage. i see that 900 is about 12:1.
so im assuming anything over 900 im starting to get lean??
if i was to tell u guys what mv i am running at WOT, would u be able to give me an around about A/F reading?
at WOT would i be looking for the mv at about what rpm?? 5500 to 6000??
Everyone will tell you to use a wideband. FWIW, I found this from a knowledgeable poster:
Quote: Originally Posted by mario03srt
Well if you want some 0-1v associations with afr here is what I used to do and many older TD guys use.
.99-97v = pig rich and slowing you down
.96-93v = safe
.93-90v = perfect on 93 octane
.90-.87v= race gas/alky time
Here is a video of my dyno pull from last year with a Mopar Perf 0-1v 02 sensor hooked up to a gage I made.
It's showing .96 volts at very hi boost but if you look you will see the little green light, that means I'm spraying alky too so that richens the afr some.
My stock boost gauge reads more vacuum and less boost than the Aeroforce gauge. I'm betting the Aeroforce gauge is more accurate. Ex: Stock gauge shows 19 psi, Aeroforce shows 17.0 psi.
Q. Do the stock and Aeroforce gauges read boost from the same source, which I assume is the MAP sensor?
Q. Will the Aeroforce gauge ever read above 18.2 psi on a Stage 0/1 car, since the MAP voltage only reads that high?
Q. Why does my stock gauge go above 18 psi if the MAP sensor can't read above that?
My stock boost gauge reads more vacuum and less boost than the Aeroforce gauge. I'm betting the Aeroforce gauge is more accurate. Ex: Stock gauge shows 19 psi, Aeroforce shows 17.0 psi.
Q. Do the stock and Aeroforce gauges read boost from the same source, which I assume is the MAP sensor?
Q. Will the Aeroforce gauge ever read above 18.2 psi on a Stage 0/1 car, since the MAP voltage only reads that high?
Q. Why does my stock gauge go above 18 psi if the MAP sensor can't read above that?
the stock gage is mechanical not electrical
there is a pressure line that go to the back of the gage
and no you will not see higner pressure than 18.2 on the stock map...and even less if you clamp it(14.5 psi for me )
when i look at o2 sensor voltage. i see that 900 is about 12:1.
so im assuming anything over 900 im starting to get lean??
if i was to tell u guys what mv i am running at WOT, would u be able to give me an around about A/F reading?
at WOT would i be looking for the mv at about what rpm?? 5500 to 6000??
Everyone will tell you to use a wideband. FWIW, I found this from a knowledgeable poster:
Quote: Originally Posted by mario03srt
Well if you want some 0-1v associations with afr here is what I used to do and many older TD guys use.
.99-97v = pig rich and slowing you down
.96-93v = safe
.93-90v = perfect on 93 octane
.90-.87v= race gas/alky time
Here is a video of my dyno pull from last year with a Mopar Perf 0-1v 02 sensor hooked up to a gage I made.
It's showing .96 volts at very hi boost but if you look you will see the little green light, that means I'm spraying alky too so that richens the afr some.
Hope this helps.
Marion
i just saw your dyno, holy crap, how much are you boosting? what you dyno?
there is a pressure line that go to the back of the gage
and no you will not see higner pressure than 18.2 on the stock map...and even less if you clamp it(14.5 psi for me )
My stock boost gauge reads more vacuum and less boost than the Aeroforce gauge. I'm betting the Aeroforce gauge is more accurate. Ex: Stock gauge shows 19 psi, Aeroforce shows 17.0 psi.
Remember that the Aeroforce gauge reads vacuum in psi, so if your'e seeing say -10 on the Interceptor, that would equal about 20 in-Hg. When reading vacuum, a psi reading will be roughly half of a in-Hg reading.
i get about 19-25 spark advance and about 7-9 deg. timing retard, with my S2though i'll keep posted
Quote: Originally Posted by MoparbeastSRT4
I hooked up my AEM UEGO to the SRT-4 Interceptor gauge today.
This was very easy, the output from the wideband is the white 0.5 V wire and the Interceptor has a green and a white one, the white one is Input 1 so this is the one I used (could use either one ), then this is what Todd told me to do.
Turn the gauge on and scroll through the menu and select the appropriate analog input which I used Input 1 . You'll go to a new screen which will allow you to enter the conversion (slope = 002.0, intercept = 010.0) for this AEM unit (voltage * 2 +10 = A/F ratio) and it worked perfectly. I can't wait to record my A/F Ratios, I'll let u know how everything worked out later on .
this is exellent info, thanks. But where did you get it from ??
i get about 19-25 spark advance and about 7-9 deg. timing retard, with my S2though i'll keep posted
Quote: Originally Posted by MoparbeastSRT4
I hooked up my AEM UEGO to the SRT-4 Interceptor gauge today.
This was very easy, the output from the wideband is the white 0.5 V wire and the Interceptor has a green and a white one, the white one is Input 1 so this is the one I used (could use either one ), then this is what Todd told me to do.
Turn the gauge on and scroll through the menu and select the appropriate analog input which I used Input 1 . You'll go to a new screen which will allow you to enter the conversion (slope = 002.0, intercept = 010.0) for this AEM unit (voltage * 2 +10 = A/F ratio) and it worked perfectly. I can't wait to record my A/F Ratios, I'll let u know how everything worked out later on .
this is exellent info, thanks. But where did you get it from ??
that about the same timing as me on s0
for the retard, i am trying to get the right recipe on 91 and stock intercoller
if i have 18psi and fall a bit faster i get less knock
if i stay at 18 to long i end up with 6 or 7 degree of retard and you can feel the power loss
but i think some seem to be normal..like if i go wot in third evev if boost is not fully up i still get some 3.5 knock ? at the beginning after that it lower a bit
you might want to try an SAFC so the PCM does'nt see 18 PSI, but maybe around 13-14..............unless you already have A MAP-clamp. Then PCM may not retard any
you might want to try an SAFC so the PCM does'nt see 18 PSI, but maybe around 13-14..............unless you already have A MAP-clamp. Then PCM may not retard any
it's KNOCK retard...so the solution is to get no knock...
less advance, cooler air, better gaz are some of the solution
solution alzo is to let PCM see less boost..........or so they've been saying over the past 3 years
is it just me ?
ok if you let the pcm see more than around 16 psi it will pull timing ..that i readed somewhere
but clamping the psi signal will not change the knock retard, maybe will even worsen it because when clamping then timing advance will be greater so you will end up with more knock and more retard so more timing and more retard equale 0. the best is les timing and no retard
but clamping the psi signal will not change the knock retard
You make a valid point but are you saying the PCM makes no distinction between timing and the amount of boost in the manifold? If so, I think many on here would give you a good arguement for that, not trying to be a dick but I think there are some timing benifts to a MAP-clamp....
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though i'll keep posted 
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