This is the How 2 for the Kinetic 60mm TB leak free fix! It shouldnt take more than 10 minutes with the TB in hand. If its on the car, then your looking at about 20 minutes in total. This fix will insure your TB is leak free. I have tested this fix up to 30psi!!
Parts needed:parts needed:
m6x1x30 cap screw
federal mogul seal part #473096
very thin 3/8" washer [more on this later!]
tools needed:
metric allen set
Flat block of wood
Hammer
wire cutters [or buzzer wheel]
The TB HAS to be off the car first off. The second thing you want to do is look how the TB opens and closes straight from Kinetic. Also look at the idele screw. Make sure when you are done, the screw is in the same place and the throttle plate opens and closes just like before you modded it. The third thing you want to do is remove the throttle plate from the TB. To remove the blade, you will need to use the small allen key to remove the bolts.
After the plate is removed, you will need to pull the shaft out. You do this by removing the TPS sensor [if you havent already], then pulling the throttle linkage bracket out. You DO NOT need to pull the nut and assembly apart. Just simpy pull on the bracket and the shaft will come out. Becarefull not to rip the little orings on the shaft.
After you pull the shaft out, you will want to insert the Seal over the bearing thats still in your TB. Just push it in by hand at first. Make sure its flush!
Then you want to take a flat block of wood [I prefer this over a socket], and hammer the bushing in straight.
MAKE SURE THE Seal IS FLUSH!! We have it about this deep.
After you are certain the Seal is flush, its time to put the shaft back in. Before you start sliding the shaft in, you will need to install the metal 3/8 washer. Here`s the catch, it MUST be very very thin. If its not, the plate will bind and tear up your TB. You can not use the standard 3/8 washer. If you do you must grind it thinner! The one on the right is the standard, and will not work. The one on the left is what we used.
Put the washer on the back side of the linkage bracket.
Then gently slide the shaft back into the bearings. AGAIN, make sure you do not tear the orings on the shaft.
After you have the shaft back in its place, you must make sure each oring on the shaft sits flush inside the TB. If it doest, the plate will not be flush, and it will ruin your TB. Install the TPS sensor and that will determine if the orings are flush in their place. I havent noticed any leaks from the TPS oring, but a few have. I will have the correct oring posted later.
After you are sure the shaft is in its correct place, you will install the throttle blade. Make SURE The blade holes line up with the shaft holes. If its not a drop in affair, then something is not lined up correct.
After the bushing is installed, you will want to move on to the idle screw. The screw that comes with the TB, is to long and hits the tranny.
You will want to replace the Kinetic screw with the m6x1x30 screw. You will also want to cut the spring thats around the Kinetic screw in half.
After cutting the spring, reassemble the screw and spring and install back into the TB. You want the screw just touching the throttle linkage enough to keep it from being 100% closed. We want it 99% closed, so the screw is just barely keeping it open.
After that, just reinstall the TB and your good to go! I would still recommend a leak test to make sure everything is seated correct. Also I want to go back over the fact that the washer has to be super thin!! Take your time and do things the right way the first time, or youll have a chewed up TB on your hands.
Also if you have any silicon around the bearings, like the ZAPP fix...MAKE SURE its 100%!! cleaned out. The seal we are using is a very tight fit to you have zero room for error.
