Vacuum Line question *i looked at the diagrams already*

[xavioz]

Hey guys, i looked at the vacuum line thread and none of my lines match those diagrams. I purchased the car used, so I'm trying to figure out how he left it. It seems like my WGA line runs over the turbo and connects behind it. Looks like a stock BOV and is connected with the pink line. the green line runs to the back of the turbo as well as the line below it. The line above the pink line also runs behind the turbo. I initially thought it was the stock wga with stock/mopar BOV setup but the wastegate line runs over the turbo and is connected to it like an aftermarket setup.

Also, not sure how it happened, but i got in the car the other day and it boosted like mad. peakin at 20psi. i knew somethin wasn't right so i took a look under and saw that the green line was disconnected. Anybody know why the green line would cause this?

Any help is much apreciated. thanks guys.

[StealthLutz]

So what is your question? And the vac lines tend to pop off, its recommended to zip tie ALL vac lines, then you wont have that problem. If its an aftermarket wastegate then the wastegate is going to be hooked up to the compressor housing. Other than that your lines are fine. About the green line popping off and causing your car to spike so high, thats what happens when you have a boost leak your gauge goes crazy

[xavioz]

Thanks for the reply. I discovered something new. the location of my green line was incorrect! I took a closer look and the solenoid itself was mounted upside down. so, the line was connected on top but since the solenoid was upside down, it was actually connected to the bottom. i corrected this, and made sure the others were on. I will zip tie them as well. The car now seems to run correctly. boosting up to ~15psi and backing off slightly.

So are you saying that my WGA is aftermarket if the line runs to the back of the compressor housing? or did the previous owner setup a stock one weird?

Thanks again guys for all the help.

[NayaL8R]

Take a picture of it and post it

[xavioz]

Alright new update. I took off my CAI to zip tie all the lines and discovered that the WGA line was just running around the back of the turbo housing and was connected correctly for a stock setup. Yesterday, after ensuring all lines were properly connected the car ran great. was boostin to 15psi and holding at around 12. On my way home, i decided to let her go one more time, but she was back to only hitting 5psi. I looked under the hood assuming a line had come loose and unfortunately they're all connected. I have them all zipped tied and i dont see any sort of problem with the cold or hot side pipes. What would cause it to suddenly drop off? The Check engine light is on, but it was on when it was boosting normally. This afternoon i drove the car and it seemed to take forever to get much spool at all, and would only get 5psi to red line. If the car is idling and I rev it does not go above 0psi. Seems like when i think i've fixed it, something else fails. Thanks guys for all the help.

[master_1011]

what code is the CEL on for??

Also, it is rare to get any boost in nuetral while reving it. Generally, there needs to be a load on the motor to build boost.

[xavioz]

The engine light actually went off by itself tonight. Only thing i changed was zip tieing all the lines this afternoon. So I guess i dont have to worry about that. As far as the turbo goes. While driving, the highest i can get the boost is 4 maybe 5psi. doesn't matter what i do. The turbo sounds different than it use to. Before, i could hear it spooling but once it got to 5psi it would be stuck there. Now, its barely making any noise, and takes full throttle all the way to 4500 to get it up to 4-5psi where it stops building. I hope my turbo isn't shot. Thanks again guys for all the help!

[xavioz]

Got it solved today! I built the boost leak checker and tried that first. No leaks. There was a very small amount of air coming out around the throttle body, but i assumed this was normal. I made sure all the bolts were tight anyways. The problem was that the arm of the WGA had come loose from its mount on the manifold. On a hunch, I removed the heat shield just to take a look at things, and sure enough, it was disconnected. Heres a picture of the arm with a new pin installed. Thanks again guys for all the help! Hopefully this will solve somebody else's problems in the future.