What I dont understand is why resetting the PCM solves the problem for a time. If it's a leak in the TB or vacuum lines, the leak would still be there after resetting the PCM, so that should not fix the problem. Same goes for the TPS wires, if there is a short or a bad connection, the problem should not go away simply by resetting the pcm. I have reset the pcm and not touched the wires or anything else and the problem went away.
I've jiggled my wires and nothing happens, neither before nor after the problem presents itselft. Mine only happens when I go on a long trip and I end up going up a hill at half throttle with the boost pegged at 0 boost. It seems that if I drive up a hill at 0 boost in 5th gear for a minute or so, the sticking idle starts. Then it stays until I reset the pcm.
What I dont understand is why resetting the PCM solves the problem for a time. If it's a leak in the TB or vacuum lines, the leak would still be there after resetting the PCM, so that should not fix the problem. Same goes for the TPS wires, if there is a short or a bad connection, the problem should not go away simply by resetting the pcm. I have reset the pcm and not touched the wires or anything else and the problem went away.
I've jiggled my wires and nothing happens, neither before nor after the problem presents itselft. Mine only happens when I go on a long trip and I end up going up a hill at half throttle with the boost pegged at 0 boost. It seems that if I drive up a hill at 0 boost in 5th gear for a minute or so, the sticking idle starts. Then it stays until I reset the pcm.
W...T...F?
Dude this problem is gonna go down in Dodge Folk Lore!
So how do reset the PCM? Just disconnect the battery?
i soldered the fricken wires to the damn tps switch, now that problem is history, even if the entire switch is new, but no good connections from wire to the pins, will make no difference. i used a dremel to cut the surrounds of the tps switch to expose the pins, sanded the pins so that the solder will stick nicely, next step was to solder the wires directly on the correct pins, screw it back on the throttle body and that was it.
take my advice bro i had all the symptoms you are experiencing right now...
So how long has it been since you did the soldering? I would not doubt it if a poor connection between the pins and sensor was the problem. However like someone posted before, resetting the PCM should not play in favor of the problem if its a bad connection? Right? Then again who knows what really going on in the cars CPU? All I know is that this is a huge red flag with SRT-4 owners and few if any cars ever get fixed.
As mention above in previous post, my 2003 SRT-4 with 110,000 miles on it has been playing the erratic idle game. You know the drill (idles at 2500 to 3000 all by itself up and down and acts like cruise control on the freeway. Well after several attempts to fix it, I thought I had saw light at the end of the tunnel when the dealer discovered a bad TPS. The car ran great for 3 days after the TPs was replaced then went back to the erratic idle problem. So I got to thinking and disconnected the battery to see if that would reset anything. (Yep I am really reaching at this point.) I also replaced the K&N filter with my spare that I switch out from time to time. I also cleaned out the air box with a wet rag and removed some dirt and stuff. So the car set all night in the garage and come morning I drove to work only a few miles and I get some weird and ever so slightly hesitation in the throttle. Keep in mind the erratic idle symptoms are gone? Go figure? So the engine light comes on and stays on. At work I turn the key several times to get the code and "bing" P0123 comes up? Now what's the problem? Could water vapor left in the air box cause that? How about the oil on the K&N filter? (Like I said at this point I am reaching.) The crazy thing is with the engine light on coming home from work (a 45 min drive) the car ran great. Should I just tolerate the engine light and forget about the P0123 code which is a high voltage reading or once again take it back to the dealer? Help me out my SRT-4 brothers
count me as another victum, mine just started. I checked the tps wiring and it seems fine, what should i check next
SELL CAR!
I have tried everything as mention on this board and frankly I am tired of the hassle and time spent trying to fix it. I purchased the car new in 2003 and I will admit I had 100,000 miles of trouble free problems so I really cant complain to much. I have been disconnecting the battery when I get home from work and I will usually get two days of problem free driving as far as the crazy idle is concern. Like mention before I have replaced the TPS and the last code it threw was the P0123. I don't even care to fix it. I am just gonna wait it out until my new car comes in and I will do a trade in. Best of luck to your problem.
mine started up again, it happend right after I got on it pretty good. I live by chicago, could the cold be affecting that, or should I think about buying a tps repair kit?
ok here we go again, i have the mpx 62mm tb with spacer and both agp hard pipes and hks bov, i have changed the tps and changed the the harness twice, the 2nd time i made my own. ok after 2 days no cel lights and some hard pulls, it came back again, cruise control!!!!!, i pull over shut the car off, i turn the key on 3 times to reset the ecu and we are back to normal again. this only happens after 30 min of driven on the highway only, city driven we are good. so i look at this way am stuck with this again, go back to stock tb and lose the power, or just deal with, am going to deal with it, with the new tb it pulls much harder than b4.
illicit, could you find out which ground wire they fixed. I can't seem to find any loose wires for that matter. much appreciated.
Thanx
Pap
i had the same problem. i checked my grounds and found that the one on the back corner of the valve cover under the intake was off. ive had some underboost issues too, i have no part throttle boost at all. gotta floor it to get 7-8psi.
i just reset the ecu, now im about to go drive it. does anyone know what the ground is for, or is it just a coincidence mine was unplugged?
I have been dealing with this problem since I bought the car. I have had the TPS sensor replaced, TPS wiring replaced. Last week coming to work, the car starts to hang at 4000rpm. Keep in mind I am travelling on a two lane highway through snow drifts I stop the car wiggle the TPS wiring. Now the car goes into "limp" mode throws a 2074 code and I cannot get past 1100rpm without major stumble. Now I have gone from 100klm to 40klm max. I stop again and seperate the wires going into the TPS. Now the car runs fine but still has the 2074 code. I take it to the dealer and get charged over $150 for them to tell me they do not know what is causing the problem. They suggest I leave it there and they will try to figure it out at $80 per hour. I reset the CPU and and said no thanks. Three weeks no problems.
I'm at 70k and just developed the symptoms recently. I ordered the tps connector repair kit from MPSC and hope to replace it this weekend. The kit comes with new extended wires, pins and a new connector. I'll bet money it's a combination of the existing harness wires being too short and faulty connector, we'll see.
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Gummybear One Lap Of Atlanta - 2008
Cannonball One Lap Of America - 2004/2005
SRT Nationals - 2004/2005/2006/2007/2008
I also just got the probelm on my 03 63k miles. I have the TPS wireing harness and am about to attempt to fix it with that. Why does'nt Dodge issue a recall for this issue, I guess they like the 110 dollar profit from the TPS and harness.
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What Now Is The Problem?
I stop the car wiggle the TPS wiring. Now the car goes into "limp" mode throws a 2074 code and I cannot get past 1100rpm without major stumble. Now I have gone from 100klm to 40klm max. I stop again and seperate the wires going into the TPS. Now the car runs fine but still has the 2074 code. I take it to the dealer and get charged over $150 for them to tell me they do not know what is causing the problem. They suggest I leave it there and they will try to figure it out at $80 per hour. 
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