Hey guys my car started the 3k hold feature lol i also put a RFL bov on and removed my vac lines with arrneon or something diagram. The 3k thing started before i installed the Bov and removed the lines. I ordered a TPS rewire kit. would this solve my problem and how far should i go back with cutting the original harness? Also would this cause my car to stutter really bad under full throttle in first and right at redline. I threw a code P0121 if that helps any. Also when i go to check to see what it is as soon as i stop and pop the hood it stops and doesnt do it again until as soon as i let off the clutch it starts again. But while it is running normal after the stops i wiggled the tps wires no change or anything. I also unplugged the sensor one time to see if it would do it and it did as soon as i engaged the clutch. Does anyone know what i can do???? the tps rewire kit should be here in a few days lol
well, put in the tps repair kit last night. actually used the whole freakin foot of wire so their should be all the play in the world. I also ziptied the harness up a little bit so the Iac wires werent as kinked. So far, everything is back to normal. Thanks to everyone in the thread who lead us to the problem!
Had the same problem on a 2005 srt-4. Took it to dealeer and they said it was the idle speed solenoid. After the service it did stop,so was that the problem or did I get a shitty deal?
Well, thought I had it fixed. Came back 2 days later. Put a new Tps sensor in and so far so good *knock on wood* I dont know if it would have anything to do with it, but the small plastic piece that turns inside the sensor had no spring play, and looked like it had oil and stuff all in it. That may be what is contributing to some peoples problems? Could it be excessive blowby is gumming up the sensor?
hey guys... ok so the other day i was driving to school and my car just shut off while driving... started right back up and no probs or check engine light... so i thought nothing of it... a day later my idle rpms were normal but my safc and scan guage were showing 4-6 thottle % and i wasnt on the gas at all just sitting at a light... then while driving my a/f's would go all over the place... just cruising it would go to 10.0 and bounce to 16 and back to 14 an the car would hessitate a lil... and if im driving and a drop it into nuetral my rpm's would hang at about 2k and then once i come to a complete stop it would go back to normal idle rpm but again the safc would show 4-6 throttle %... i asked turbomatt if he had any suggestions and he said TPS wires were bad... so i put in the s&p rewire kit and a new TPS and the problem is still there.... can anyone shed some light on this at all... any sugesstions or people that have had the same prob.... this is pretty urgent as my srt is my daily driver and only car... thanks, -matt-
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Flame Red SRT-4 w/148 cubic inches of pure whoop ass!
AGP S3D 44lbs./min. wheel
"Happiness is positive cash flow"
i just had a agp wga installed and now my throttle sticks wtf??the car drives fine it just holds the rpm 1500-3000 until i come to complete stop. even if i hold the clutch in the throttle will stick. it only stops when the car stops. any suggestions?? im takn it to the dealership monday would the wga have anything to have done with it
Well, after 2 1/2 years running the Greddy Type S with the black the line capped. The Solenoid with the stock blow-off lines were all capped. I never had the throttle stick problem. Now I've decided to start putting some parts back to stock, and I've hooked up the stock blow off valve. So now the throttle stick problem has returned, I'm begining to think it may linked with the stock blow off valve and it's solenoid.....
Vehicle Issue Erratic idle | Inspect the wiring harness and repair as necessary;Prior to replacing parts, please review the explanation below in the recommendation field.
Recommendation Inspect the wiring harness and repair as necessary Check engine wiring harness near the crank sensor to verify if the wiring insulation on the individual wires, inside of the harness, has fused together and allowed the wires to pass current through the insulation
Vehicle Issue Erratic idle | Inspect the wiring harness and repair as necessary;Prior to replacing parts, please review the explanation below in the recommendation field.
Recommendation Inspect the wiring harness and repair as necessary Check engine wiring harness near the crank sensor to verify if the wiring insulation on the individual wires, inside of the harness, has fused together and allowed the wires to pass current through the insulation
IM SWAPN ECU AND MAP -STAGE 2 LATER THIS WEEK, MY CAR IS DOIN IT AS SOON AS IT WARMS UP ALL SENSORS SEEM TO WORK FINE AS OF DRBIII,I"LL CO- PILOT IT IF SWAP DOESN,T WORK .ITS NOT THE TPS ON MY CAR WATCHED ON DRBIII CHECKING WIRES 2MORROW AND THE MAP READS -20 WIDEBAND @ 14.7,THIS TIP KINDA SOUNDS REASONABLE-TIMING ISSUE?
Damm...this was alot of stuff to read. I've had the same problem for the past week. Right after i replaced my camshaft position sensor. Car starts to idle high and goes back down to normal when the car stops. I've replaced the spark plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter just to get that out of the way.
So, from everything that I've read...my next steps would be.
Check TPS wiring
Check MAP sensor wiring
Possible TPS replacement
Possible AIC solenoid replacement
Am I missing anything else?
Thanks for this sticky.....but maybe someone can put the possible solutions on the first post so people dont have to read hundreds of posts. LOL
Take care all and I'll keep my fingers crossed.
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. Thanks to everyone in the thread who lead us to the problem!
Linear Mode
